Bx or B

[RalphVa]

We've 8.5 acres of very uneven, hilly property here and find that 18.5 hp we had in the JD 4010 was completely adequate. I'd go with the B2301. It has turning brakes for garden row work and for work in any snow/ice. BX does not.

 

[Redtnsv]

Thank you to everyone. I've got two dealers, the local one and another about an hour away working up some numbers. The local really wants to sell me the 2301 while the other is happy with either. Down side of the dealer further away is they wont have stock until an estimated late Feb while they wouldnt have a bucket available until May. Not sure how they can't get a bucket but thats what they showed for stock availability. Both dealers are telling me to not fill the tires as I will using the MMM and its weight I can't take off. Both advised to buy a box blade for rear ballast for FEL work. I went into this fully expecting a bx23. I likely spend 5k more but I think its the better choice. Thank you!

 

[buck12]

Thank you to everyone. I've got two dealers, the local one and another about an hour away working up some numbers. The local really wants to sell me the 2301 while the other is happy with either. Down side of the dealer further away is they wont have stock until an estimated late Feb while they wouldnt have a bucket available until May. Not sure how they can't get a bucket but thats what they showed for stock availability. Both dealers are telling me to not fill the tires as I will using the MMM and its weight I can't take off. Both advised to buy a box blade for rear ballast for FEL work. I went into this fully expecting a bx23. I likely spend 5k more but I think its the better choice. Thank you!

Stick around a while and you will spend a heck of lot more.

 

[arto98607]

.................zip.................I wouldn't worry about the tax man catching me on unpaid state sales tax and I'd just pay the penalty if a bill were to come and never heard of anyone getting that bill.............zip....................

Very good comments except I have had a different personal experience with a state use tax:


Back in 1997 I bought and paid cash for a used tractor and couple of implements from John Deere dealer at no-sales tax state, however they requested ID due to cash payment.

I had forgotten all about use tax, but some time later I received a polite letter from my home state, asking politely me to go the proper tax office and pay a use tax I may owe.
Since they seemed to know the total amount I had paid, I decided to comply and paid up - there were no questions asked whatsoever and there was no penalty.

How they got the information from out of state dealer remains a mystery.


:ashamed:

 

[cmyoung2]

I have a BX 2230, MMM for the yard, FEL, and a flail mower for the rough stuff. I like the flail because it is more compact and does not leave a windrow. (total of about 11 acres, not flat) I like the BX because it is small and manuevable, I am not very comfortable because it is not very stable on steep or rough ground. As in I back up the hill and mow down because I can't(won't) turn around at the top. Not near the issue with a larger tractor. The loader is great for its size, but it does need rear weight. A full bucket of dirt is all it wants, 2/3 load of gravel is enough. But it can carry a fairly full bucket of firewood, just not on any slope. The stability is such that I an looking for a tractor more the size of a Ford 3000 or Massey 135, though I would like both 4x4 and a loader. Pocketbook just says no way.

 

[jeff9366]

Very good comments except I have had a different personal experience with a state use tax:


Back in 1997 I bought and paid cash for a used tractor and couple of implements from John Deere dealer at no-sales tax state, however they requested ID due to cash payment.

I had forgotten all about use tax, but some time later I received a polite letter from my home state, asking politely me to go the proper tax office and pay a use tax I may owe.
Since they seemed to know the total amount I had paid, I decided to comply and paid up - there were no questions asked whatsoever and there was no penalty.

How they got the information from out of state dealer remains a mystery.


:ashamed:

Fifteen years ago my wife ordered furniture "direct" from North Carolina for delivery to our home in Maryland. Good prices but half the saving was in no sales tax.

When the third party delivery truck passed through highway truck weigh stations the weigh station officers made copies of bill of lading and furniture receipts.

We were billed for Maryland sales tax about four weeks after furniture arrived. I paid.

 

[JOHNTHOMAS]

Very good comments except I have had a different personal experience with a state use tax:


Back in 1997 I bought and paid cash for a used tractor and couple of implements from John Deere dealer at no-sales tax state, however they requested ID due to cash payment.

I had forgotten all about use tax, but some time later I received a polite letter from my home state, asking politely me to go the proper tax office and pay a use tax I may owe.
Since they seemed to know the total amount I had paid, I decided to comply and paid up - there were no questions asked whatsoever and there was no penalty.

How they got the information from out of state dealer remains a mystery.

OK, now I've heard of one but seems it was worth the risk.
:

ashamed:

Fifteen years ago my wife ordered furniture "direct" from North Carolina for delivery to our home in Maryland. Good prices but half the saving was in no sales tax.

When the third party delivery truck passed through highway truck weigh stations the weigh station officers made copies of bill of lading and furniture receipts.

We were billed for Maryland sales tax about four weeks after furniture arrived. I paid.

Seems easy to understand but today the sellers of online products are required to collect state sales tax and I guess send it to the states. Amazon and Ebay now do it. I don't think there is a requirement nation wide for tractor dealers to od so but just ask the selling dealer if he reports sales to out of state revenue depts. Financing can create a different set of trails which may be researched but gvmnt tax seekers thru lien recording. Oh, did I ever tell that my first job after College graduation was as a State Auditor?

 

[GeoMart]

The B series has a 3 speed tranny & position control on the 3pt. That pushed me into a B from a BX.
I went with a B2301 as the lift capacity is the same, seems only difference is in PTO hp but would still be adequate.

 

[River19]

I was in the BX vs. B quandary a few months ago and went with the B2601, not a single regret. The larger tires alone made me think B when you described your land and usage.

It took me maybe 2 hrs of analysis to move from BX to B....the position control of the 3pt was just one of several reasons I went with the B.

 

[BeezFun]

Messicks did this video on the 5 most hated implements, the #1 worst was the MMM. Personally I would rate the rear mount snow blower #1, but the point is I would get a zero turn and forget about mowing with a tractor. Even if you get turf tires, you'll still tear up the lawn if it's wet or even damp out, every time you want to take the mower off you'll be hissing and spitting, and if you have a lot of trees it's going to take you forever, and when you're done it won't look as good as a ZTR would. For what you've described, get as much horsepower and lift capacity as you can afford. For example at some point you might get pallet forks, but with a B2630 you will have very limited lift capacity by the time you put the load out on the forks. If you want to pull a bush hog on hills through heavy brush, you either won't have the ground traction or the power to run a bush hog. If you want to till or turn over dirt in a garden, you'll need more weight and power for a ground engaging implement. If I were in your shoes I'd look for a used low hour L at least in the high 30 HP range or more, and wouldn't rule out an MX with 50ish HP. Kubota warranty is transferrable so if you buy something fairly new you'd have some warranty left.
"I wish I had bought a smaller tractor" is something no man has ever said, anywhere, anytime.

 

[senecak19]

I feel like your where I was at back in 2013. I shopped B’s till I was blue in the face and then bought an L3200. As soon as I bought my house, I bought a Gravely ZT. I bought my L series hoping I’d never have a need for larger. Today that’s still the case, HOWEVER, I still want a larger unit now with a cab I could very well be happy with both of machines and I have no regrets on either.

 

[Redtnsv]

So I went over to the local dealer again today. Drove both around the lot a second time and I actually think I liked the BX. Now the financials also might make that as we are just starting our home build. So it looks like I went back to a bx. Im hoping it does what I need. If it doesn't well then it will be back to the dealer. Keep the comments coming. This also ensures I won't be the only one mowing as my wife said she'd never mow on the b. Dealer says to get the turf tires as they'll work on everything.

 

[sea2summit]

So I went over to the local dealer again today. Drove both around the lot a second time and I actually think I liked the BX. Now the financials also might make that as we are just starting our home build. So it looks like I went back to a bx. Im hoping it does what I need. If it doesn't well then it will be back to the dealer. Keep the comments coming. This also ensures I won't be the only one mowing as my wife said she'd never mow on the b. Dealer says to get the turf tires as they'll work on everything.

R4’s don’t do any more damage to the lawn than turfs with small tractors IMHO (heck, my MX on R4’s doesn’t tear anything up unless I’m carrying something heavy and make tight turns) and the turfs can’t handle a load in the FEL. Still wouldn’t recommend a BX for the work your considering, and still wouldn’t recommend finish mowing with a tractor.

 

[JK22]

R4’s don’t do any more damage to the lawn than turfs with small tractors IMHO (heck, my MX on R4’s doesn’t tear anything up unless I’m carrying something heavy and make tight turns) and the turfs can’t handle a load in the FEL. Still wouldn’t recommend a BX for the work your considering, and still wouldn’t recommend finish mowing with a tractor.

Ditto on all fronts. Does the dealer only have BX in stock with turf tires? I get the sense he is trying to sell you what he has on the lot and not necessarily what you need. Some people buy the BX just to be a lawnmower, and that’s fine. But, it seems to me like you actually need a tractor with 8 acres, so buy a tractor. If you get a BX (which I maintain is not enough tractor for your situation) then get one equipped to do tractor stuff. It doesn’t sound to me like you will be mowing a finished bluegrass lawn, but rather some native grass, so why would you need turf tires? If you get a BX, I’d wager we see a classified ad from you in a year.

 

[Redtnsv]

He does only have turf tires on the ones he has....he gave me a price of $15400 which is lower than anything else I found by about 1k. The best I found on the 2301 was 19500. A 2601 I found at 21400. I do think at minimum I want the R4 tires. The b series just felt "big" and its likely due to me being a city boy who bought some acres. Im hoping to truly only maintain 3 of the acres. 2 of the acres is pond so thsts area I won't mow. I do forsee in a year I do sell the bx. I love everyone's input. The only grass I'll have is likely native grasses. A buddy did say skip the mmm and just get the b series and brush or flail and be done with it. Said the mmm is a waste and expensive.

 

[Redtnsv]

Loaded question, but am I wrong to think if I do sell the bx I'd have more interest than if I had the b2301?

 

[Rook78]

Got a 2301 5 yrs ago. I’ve built berms, moved 200 tons of cracked river rock, tilled with it (worked just fine), plow a 100’ drive with the bucket (edge tamers are worth the spend), have a grapple for it and it is the most used piece of equipment I have.

No MMM, I bought a zero turn for mowing as it is 3x faster and a better cut.

2301 gets my vote!

 

[donn12]

I sold my BX and got a B. No reason to buy two lol so get the B

 

[chim]

He does only have turf tires on the ones he has......................................The b series just felt "big" and its likely due to me being a city boy who bought some acres. Im hoping to truly only maintain 3 of the acres. 2 of the acres is pond so thsts area I won't mow. I do forsee in a year I do sell the bx. .................................A buddy did say skip the mmm and just get the b series and brush or flail and be done with it. Said the mmm is a waste and expensive.

Tire damage depends a lot on the conditions you have at YOUR place. I've had old diamond pattern turfs on a 2WD tractor, R1's on the little Ford and R4's on 3 different Kubotas. Those turfs were the worst for traction. The R1's are a lot better for traction than the turfs, slightly better for traction than the R4's, but mark the yard more than any of the R4's have. The last two sets of R4's are grooved and work great year round.

My FIL's John Deere 110 felt big to me when I was using a walk-behind mower at our first house. Since building here about 30 years ago we're on the 5th tractor and have reached the point where there's no need for anything bigger. It doesn't take much seat time on a larger tractor to feel right at home with it - or feel it is undersized.

The L4240 is very comfortable and pulls a 90" RFM. It has cut our 3-1/2 acres in just under an hour when I was in a hurry and went faster than was sensible (yard isn't golf course smooth). The 8' plow is more than needed at home, but allows me to clean parking lots at the church better than the buckets, blades or blowers I've used there in the past.

 

[tradosaurus]

Messicks did this video on the 5 most hated implements, the #1 worst was the MMM. Personally I would rate the rear mount snow blower #1, but the point is I would get a zero turn and forget about mowing with a tractor. Even if you get turf tires, you'll still tear up the lawn if it's wet or even damp out, every time you want to take the mower off you'll be hissing and spitting, and if you have a lot of trees it's going to take you forever, and when you're done it won't look as good as a ZTR would. For what you've described, get as much horsepower and lift capacity as you can afford. For example at some point you might get pallet forks, but with a B2630 you will have very limited lift capacity by the time you put the load out on the forks. If you want to pull a bush hog on hills through heavy brush, you either won't have the ground traction or the power to run a bush hog. If you want to till or turn over dirt in a garden, you'll need more weight and power for a ground engaging implement. If I were in your shoes I'd look for a used low hour L at least in the high 30 HP range or more, and wouldn't rule out an MX with 50ish HP. Kubota warranty is transferrable so if you buy something fairly new you'd have some warranty left.
"I wish I had bought a smaller tractor" is something no man has ever said, anywhere, anytime.

I went through the same process and purchased a 60" ZT mower to mow 2-1/2 acres. The only disadvantage is I have to wear a respirator as I kick up pollen and dust. At some point as I get older I will probably hire a kid from the community to mow for me (5X / yr) . Cheaper than buying a cab tractor. :laughing:

I never understood a MMM and why anyone would buy one but there obviously is a market for it.

Unless you are deadset against the DPF I would go with the largest tractor you could afford. Because I was new to tractors and the salesman evidently didn't know how to upsell laughing, I realize I should have went with an MX5400 vs the L3301. I do a lot of work in and out of trees and there is very little underside protection in the L3301 and I could have used the extra PTO hp in the MX.