Grapple for Working in the Woods

[bcs001]

I am looking for recommendations based on using this grapple on Branson 3620h (36hp) 20 series hydrostat with a 2700 lb rated FEL. I am on a heavily wooded lot that I intend to work on opening up in select areas so I will be felling all sized trees and needing to either skid them out or pluck from the cut end using the grapple. I will also be doing a lot of heavy brush and branch clearing of stuff that is already dead and on the ground or that I will be cutting and pushing with the teeth of the grapple to get the smaller surface roots ripped up.

Initially I thought I would need the grapple with the longer lower tines and small single lid to grab a large load of brush, branches and tree trunks but the more think about what I want to do, the more I am leaning towards the smaller tine full sized top lid. These style grapples appear to allow better driving forward into the ground to rip out small roots and then be able to back rake with the top lid tines.

The EA 55 Inch Wicked Root Rake Grapple looks like a better choice over the EA Single Lid Wicked Root Grapple for Compact Tractors. I also will be using it to pick up medium sized rocks, sections of old concrete/stone walkway and various piles of random materials scattered around the property.

My dealer wants to sell me the Titan 66" single or double lid root grapple with the large lower tines but with the "V" shaped lower teeth. This grapple only comes with large upper teeth on the lid and it seems the back raking and plucking of rocks/walkway would be very limited but I would like to hear you experienced guy's thoughts about all of this.

Thanks,
Bruce.

 

[EverythingAttachments]

Here's a nice thread on the subject... Which Grapple? A Guide

Another discussion, with quite a few guys chiming in.. Which Wicked Grapple?

I will say that the 240 pound Wicked 55 is the most popular, compact tractor maximizing grapple EVERY created!!
I'm glad to chat about it on the phone anytime, to help you or anyone else choose the best grapple for your tractor and application. 828-464-1200
Travis

Here's a video by a great EA customer with a comparable sized tractor..

 

[EverythingAttachments]

And a stroll through the EA Factory from this past Friday. There are more on our YouTube Channel.

 

[ericm979]

My grapple use is moving brush, ripping out poison oak, and moving logs. I went with the long bottom tine EA Wicked grapple because it looks like it has a larger capacity for brush. The long bottom lets me load a bunch of small diameter logs. I can even pull up to a pile and load the grapple by hand just by opening the lids and piling them on That's useful when I can't get to the logs or the pile does not pick up easily with the grapple, and they're small enough to pick up.

I don't do much root digging, and it's not all that good for that. You can angle the grapple down and dig but it seems like it's a bad direction to put much force on the loader. I'm ok leaving the roots in the ground or the trunks cut flush and using herbicide to keep them from resprouting. Or just mowing them over and over.

It does ok to pull poison oak out of trees or brush as long as I can reach a stem and get it caught on the sharp backwards facing teeth (which have not worn at all, EA uses some good steel). Or if I can grab the PO where it's got a lot of branches (the bush form rather than the vine 40' up a tree form). It misses some but I can deal with that by hand.

I went with the dual lids to better grip uneven material. Some of the tree species we have grow any way but straight. Having two cylinders instead of one means the lids move slower which I thought would go better with the 3rd function I planned to install. The idea was that the lids would move slower allowing me to "feather" them (apply just enough force) even though a 3rd function is just on and off. Two years later I'm still running it off a remote on the fender. I did discover that I don't ever "feather" the grapple. I always crunch down until the lids stop moving.

The dual lids usually do not open or close at the same speed. Often one moves before the other starts. That's normal but it does mean it takes a little more time to open or close. I just turn the engine rpms up to get more flow and it's ok.

One drawback to the long tine style is when picking up a big log that's close to the loader's capacity. Since the log is farther away from the pins than it could be (depending on the diameter) it can be harder to curl. I've carefully transported logs that were too heavy to curl by leaving the grapple pointed down and the lids gripping the log. My 3725's loader is about 500 lbs less capacity than the newer Branson loaders.

 

[BackRoad]

Compare weights of the various EA grapples closely.

Typically, the objectives are strength, size and design using quality materials - at the least weight.

I went with the 60" Wicked Root with the 3 hinge points for the top lid. Subjectively, I consider it might be a stronger design limiting twist, over the 2 hinges used on the 55"...yet the 60" still remains reasonably light.

I've used mine a LOT, much for the purposes you've described, though on a 60hp tractor with the 1065 FEL.

I'm totally satisfied with it and there is nothing I've found it needing or wishing it had different.

I've NOT tried others as a comparison, so would never say it's the best (although I might think it is!).

 

[oosik]

Seven years ago I went thru the process of - "which grapple". I have little need for a brush grapple. I do want to move large sections of pine trunk and dig out and move rather large rocks.

I purchased a Land Pride SCG1560 rock & root grapple. I had the dealer install the grapple and a WR Long third function valve. I took my OEM grill guard to a local weld shop and had that modified. It's been such a great implement - I've not had reason to ever reinstall the bucket.

View attachment 686694View attachment 686696

 

[Industrial Toys]

IF I ever buy another grapple it will be a rotating logging style grapple, SS mount. Tired of grapping stuff that I can't get out of the woods due to width.

 

[dstig1]

Frankly the best the grapple, is the one you have. Any grapple is better than none. You probably won't be disappointed no matter what, as long as your tractor can handle it. You need to be careful with logs as it is very easy to have an unbalanced load that can either damage your FEL arms or even roll your tractor in extreme situations. Low and slow are the rules, and try to get the weight centered as best you can. You cannot always start that way but you can tug and shift to get it more balanced by resetting where you grab a couple times, as needed.

But if you are serious about doing a good amount of logging a 3pt PTO driven logging/skidding winch should really be in your plans as well as the grapple. If you no longer need it you will probably be able to sell it for as much as you paid for it a few years down the road.

 

[BackRoad]

And Mr. Oosik'S grill cover...don't forget that...do it BEFORE you pick up your first twig.

It's more important than what grapple you choose!

My tractor has a few battle scars...from before adding my protection.

 

[buck12]

Frankly the best the grapple, is the one you have. Any grapple is better than none. You probably won't be disappointed no matter what, as long as your tractor can handle it. .

Very good advice. I will add I had a single lid on my last tractor that I used for over ten years. I have a dual lid on my current tractor. I’m not sure that a dual lid makes that much difference when moving uneven loads. Both lid styles work great for my uses. I have only owned the long bottom style. I think the advantage to the short bottom type grapple would for prying stumps. Sometimes I hand load the grapple and the long bottom works well for that.

 

[buckeyefarmer]

I debated grapples for several years, originally I wanted a wide, 2 lid. I finally settled on the EA 55”. Has worked well for me.

 

[Gordon Gould]

One thing you may want to keep in mind if your woods are like mine is that the plane across the grapple is determined by how your tractor tires sit. Maybe one side is in a depression or on a large root where you have to be to pick a log or a bunch of brush. This tips the grapple and the wider the grapple the more pronounced the tip. When the grapple is tipped only one corner can hit the ground. The other corner is up in the air. Makes it hard to get a good grab. So the narrow grapples do much better in the woods. If you are always working in a field or a flat landing wide is no problem. I have a 5' grapple on one tractor and a 30" FrostBite on the other. I much prefer the FrostBite in the woods.





gg

 

[Gordon Gould]

An other thing I should have added which may be even more important is that a tractor with narrow grapple is waaay more easy to maneuver in the woods than one with a wide grapple. Try running thru the woods and turning around amongst the trees with a 6' bucket. If the woods are like mine the bucket will really hamper your maneuverability.

gg

 

[bcs001]

These posts are very helpful in highlighting some operating factors I haven't thought about yet. I'll highlight those that I think are going to be important to my specific situation and based on them I think I can see the obvious choice. I'm taking delivery this weekend of a Branson 3620 hydorstat (35hp, 4 speed ranges) with 75% filled tires and an installed FEL 3rd function kit. This FEL has a rated capacity of ~2700 lbs.

I definitely see the advantage of a relatively narrow grapple when maneuvering in the woods so 55" or 60" would seem to make sense. I also see the benefit of a low weight design to maximize capacity for lifting and dragging material so that kind of narrows down the choices to just a few with the EA 55" wicked grapple at the top of the list. Many others that look similar to the EA design are much higher weight and a few that were light weight don't appear to have the lower tines supported well enough to use for digging roots. I'm expecting to use this grapple after tree cutting and stump grinding/digging if needed but there will be lots of big roots still at the surface to snag on and I don't want to damage the tines if I catch one inadvertently.

Compare weights of the various EA grapples closely.
Typically, the objectives are strength, size and design using quality materials - at the least weight.
I went with the 60" Wicked Root with the 3 hinge points for the top lid. Subjectively, I consider it might be a stronger design limiting twist, over the 2 hinges used on the 55"...yet the 60" still remains reasonably light.
I've used mine a LOT, much for the purposes you've described, though on a 60hp tractor with the 1065 FEL.
I'm totally satisfied with it and there is nothing I've found it needing or wishing it had different.
I've NOT tried others as a comparison, so would never say it's the best (although I might think it is!).

The 55" EA looks like a pretty stout unit with the 2 hinge points but maybe there is some real strength and reliability advantage to that 3rd hinge?

But if you are serious about doing a good amount of logging a 3pt PTO driven logging/skidding winch should really be in your plans as well as the grapple. If you no longer need it you will probably be able to sell it for as much as you paid for it a few years down the road.

This is something I will definitely look into. Seems much easier that using rope, chains and snatch blocks which is what I do now with my truck.


When I called EA about delivery times, they are out at least 12 weeks. After looking at the other heavier and/or light duty options, I will either replan my work for later in the year or find an old used grapple to buy then sell when the EA is delivered.

Thanks again for all the great info.
Bruce.

 

[RSR]

I'll second what Gordon said. Clamshell grapples get a lot of love here, for good reason. But, that often causes individuals to just buy what everyone else has, without considering their specific uses.

I almost went down that path, until my dealer suggested a Frost Bite style grapple (I got one made by Sundown). I was looking to move logs, and rocks. I am SO glad I got the style I did.

It's less than 1/2 the price of a clamshell type, and weighs about 1/2 as much (preserving your lift capacity).

As Gordon mentioned, maneuverability is key. Unless your log sits on a flat open space that is at least as wide as your grapple, you're going to have a hard time picking it up. You'll catch the edges of the grapple on high spots on the ground, rocks, or other logs. Or, you'll be forced to pick up the log using only one end of the grapple, risking torquing it.

When moving rocks (a major use of mine) the ground has so many rocks that I would never be able to get under one, without the edge of the grapple hitting, and getting hung up, on another one.

If you have wide open woods, this is likely not a problem. If you're like me and have dense, tight woods, with rocks everywhere, it will be a major headache.

 

[RSR]

Here's an example of what a frost-bite style grapple can do. These two piles of rocks were dug up out of an area measuring about 50 ft x 20 ft.

 

[bcs001]

I'll second what Gordon said. Clamshell grapples get a lot of love here, for good reason. But, that often causes individuals to just buy what everyone else has, without considering their specific uses.
I almost went down that path, until my dealer suggested a Frost Bite style grapple (I got one made by Sundown). I was looking to move logs, and rocks. I am SO glad I got the style I did.
It's less than 1/2 the price of a clamshell type, and weighs about 1/2 as much (preserving your lift capacity).
As Gordon mentioned, maneuverability is key. Unless your log sits on a flat open space that is at least as wide as your grapple, you're going to have a hard time picking it up. You'll catch the edges of the grapple on high spots on the ground, rocks, or other logs. Or, you'll be forced to pick up the log using only one end of the grapple, risking torquing it.
When moving rocks (a major use of mine) the ground has so many rocks that I would never be able to get under one, without the edge of the grapple hitting, and getting hung up, on another one.
If you have wide open woods, this is likely not a problem. If you're like me and have dense, tight woods, with rocks everywhere, it will be a major headache.

After seeing the suggestion about the Frost Bite style grapple, I did a little looking at how it works and decided for my application, I think the grapple rake would be a better option mainly for the "raking" of small brush and roots. I do have lots of tree and smaller rock that the Frost Bite would work well on but I lose the other capabilities.

I do appreciate the suggestion though and getting to see other options is a very good thing.

 

[BackRoad]

America...the land of choice!

Lots of good grapple designs out there.

It's been said that some on TBN are EA bigots. Before joining TBN, I couldn't even spell EA - now I are one.

EA being 12 weeks out for delivery might be a subtle indication about the demand for their product. And it's not just TBN'ers creating that backlog!

Likely you will end up using it for a large percentage of your time, so no matter what brand or size you buy - get quality.

Just a few thoughts related to size and wider vs narrower grapple.

The following is simply just another view of this wonderful world.

When picking up a 16 foot log, the wider the platform I have, the more stable the load will be.

As an extreme example, imagine trying to find the balance point on a 16 foot log using a forklift - where the forks are set 12 inches apart.

Then imagine carrying that 16 foot log on the 12 inch platform without the ends of the log teeter-tottering wildly up and down.

Then imagine the same activity with forks set 5 feet apart...it's far easier to find balance and stability when using the forks set wide.

Sure a grapple has a top to hold a load on, but personally, I still want a wide, stable platform to make finding the exact balance point on every log less critical and to limit end bounce during transit.

And when cleaning up slash, again just personally, I want the widest - biggest bite of limbs I can carry. Many times, I can quickly pick up and stack two or three smaller piles together and then get a bite of the whole bunch to carry off to the slash pile.

Much of the work is limited more by size of the bite, rather than exceeding weight limits of the FEL system.

One last point, again, just personal. I will purposely not overload or try to max my FEL weight limits just to move logs.

I am not operating a dedicated - built for purpose log skidder...it's really just an ol' Kubota field tractor. I will pick up nearly any reasonable sized log, and often 2 or maybe even 3 at a time if they are 12 or 16 inch diameter logs and not too long.

I don't have a need to move 36 inch x 16 foot freshly cut oak logs for a mill.

Others on TBN do mill and are cutting down 80 and 100' trees for lumber, so they have different demands than I have.

I just cut my big stuff in half and make two trips!

My objectives are clearing overgrown pasture, cleaning up and gathering firewood from the wood lot - and making my tractor last until 2056. I'll be 100 then, and maybe won't need it for gathering firewood any more.

So I'm conservative on not overloading the FEL with excessive log weight...but I DO want to pick up and handle the most brush and slash that I can at any one time.

The majority of my work is more limited by size of the grapple bite, not weight limits of the FEL.

Bigger is gooder in my book!

 

[Hersheyfarm]

Here's a nice thread on the subject... Which Grapple? A Guide

Another discussion, with quite a few guys chiming in.. Which Wicked Grapple?

I will say that the 240 pound Wicked 55 is the most popular, compact tractor maximizing grapple EVERY created!!
I'm glad to chat about it on the phone anytime, to help you or anyone else choose the best grapple for your tractor and application. 828-464-1200
Travis

View attachment 686657

View attachment 686658

View attachment 686659

View attachment 686656

Here's a video by a great EA customer with a comparable sized tractor..

How much is the 55?

 

[Gordon Gould]

America...the land of choice!

Lots of good grapple designs out there.

It's been said that some on TBN are EA bigots. Before joining TBN, I couldn't even spell EA - now I are one.

EA being 12 weeks out for delivery might be a subtle indication about the demand for their product. And it's not just TBN'ers creating that backlog!

Likely you will end up using it for a large percentage of your time, so no matter what brand or size you buy - get quality.

Just a few thoughts related to size and wider vs narrower grapple.

The following is simply just another view of this wonderful world.

When picking up a 16 foot log, the wider the platform I have, the more stable the load will be.

As an extreme example, imagine trying to find the balance point on a 16 foot log using a forklift - where the forks are set 12 inches apart.

Then imagine carrying that 16 foot log on the 12 inch platform without the ends of the log teeter-tottering wildly up and down.

Then imagine the same activity with forks set 5 feet apart...it's far easier to find balance and stability when using the forks set wide.

Sure a grapple has a top to hold a load on, but personally, I still want a wide, stable platform to make finding the exact balance point on every log less critical and to limit end bounce during transit.

And when cleaning up slash, again just personally, I want the widest - biggest bite of limbs I can carry. Many times, I can quickly pick up and stack two or three smaller piles together and then get a bite of the whole bunch to carry off to the slash pile.

Much of the work is limited more by size of the bite, rather than exceeding weight limits of the FEL system.

One last point, again, just personal. I will purposely not overload or try to max my FEL weight limits just to move logs.

I am not operating a dedicated - built for purpose log skidder...it's really just an ol' Kubota field tractor. I will pick up nearly any reasonable sized log, and often 2 or maybe even 3 at a time if they are 12 or 16 inch diameter logs and not too long.

I don't have a need to move 36 inch x 16 foot freshly cut oak logs for a mill.

Others on TBN do mill and are cutting down 80 and 100' trees for lumber, so they have different demands than I have.

I just cut my big stuff in half and make two trips!

My objectives are clearing overgrown pasture, cleaning up and gathering firewood from the wood lot - and making my tractor last until 2056. I'll be 100 then, and maybe won't need it for gathering firewood any more.

So I'm conservative on not overloading the FEL with excessive log weight...but I DO want to pick up and handle the most brush and slash that I can at any one time.

The majority of my work is more limited by size of the grapple bite, not weight limits of the FEL.

Bigger is gooder in my book!

I respectively disagree with your physics. If you pick up a log off center the width of your grapple has no effect on the stability of the load. At least that is the case if the grapple actually grabs the log and it is not just laying in there rattling around. It is not like a set of forks where an unbalanced load will tip up on one end. With a grapple the log is pinched tight and acts like a solid part part of the grapple. The unbalance and torque on the loader arms will be the same weather the grapple is 6' wide or 2' wide it just depends on the log. If you have a strong tractor you can handle a lot of imbalance.

All I am trying to say to the OP is if you want to handle logs easily and efficiently you can't beat a log grapple. And a FrostBite is not a wimpy unit.







And as RSR says it is great on rocks too



gg