FD620D

   / FD620D #1  

Jheald65

New member
Joined
Feb 27, 2021
Messages
21
Tractor
Kawasaki 2510
Hey folks , just joined and looking for some advice , I’m brand new to Kawasaki engines , but have always tinkered with all kinds of engines ...
I picked up some one else’s problem, a Mule with a FD620D engine ..
“Someone “ had taken the engine apart to the point of finding the broken cam gear and then abandoned the project. I have it all apart and have cleaned up the case and all other parts . Now I’m at the reassembly phase and having some questions.
It appears that the govenor stud is “missing “ it doesn’t appear that it has broken , actually looks almost factory to not be there . And I don’t see a place for the govenor rod to pass through to actuate a govenor if it were there . Where there other means of rpm control that was used?
I don’t know the year of the mule or the engine
 

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   / FD620D #5  
A Model would HELP! Can you find a tag on the Mule, not engine, with a model number? It might be, for example: KAF 620 A4
Did you find any linkage parts for the governor? IIRC the governor shaft will be in the other half of the crankcase, end coming out between the cylinders. Kind of hockey stick shape. 39003 that a lever mounts to.
2510gov.JPG
 
   / FD620D
  • Thread Starter
#6  
Yes sorry I didn’t realize that I hadn’t put that in the original post it IS KAF620A
 
   / FD620D
  • Thread Starter
#7  
This is how it was when I picked it up
 

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   / FD620D #8  
Interesting your KD620D engine does not have the electrical heater fitting on the carb. I am guessing that makes it 20yo or more.

I am currently working on a JD Gator 6x4 with the same engine. Someone worked on it before, and really screwed it up. I cannot tell the model year on mine as the VIN is missing. Prob about 15yo. The mechanical choke is not used, tho it is still there. Will need full carb rebuild...amazing how small it is....
 
   / FD620D
  • Thread Starter
#9  
Interesting your KD620D engine does not have the electrical heater fitting on the carb. I am guessing that makes it 20yo or more.

I am currently working on a JD Gator 6x4 with the same engine. Someone worked on it before, and really screwed it up. I cannot tell the model year on mine as the VIN is missing. Prob about 15yo. The mechanical choke is not used, tho it is still there. Will need full carb rebuild...amazing how small it is....
I’m sure , I don’t know anything about it except for the stud where the govenor is supposed to go , isn’t there lol.. I did read somewhere that at some point the switched to a transmission style of govenor? Anyone confirm that ?
 
   / FD620D #10  
I’m sure , I don’t know anything about it except for the stud where the govenor is supposed to go , isn’t there lol.. I did read somewhere that at some point the switched to a transmission style of govenor? Anyone confirm that ?
It may be in the transmission. Where does the rod (left end as pictured, red circle) connect P/N 49103/ A/B? I think this is the governor linkage P/N 16171A/B
First picture front of machine is to the right
Second drawing front of machine is to the left
2510rod.JPG
2510gov.JPG
 
   / FD620D
  • Thread Starter
#11  
Yes , your are correct , it’s in the transmission... after searching and searching , I blindly went with the idea , that if it wasn’t there , then , it wasn’t there.. I reassembled the engine and have had it running .
Where is the fan at for the cooling ? Up front of the mule by the radiator? I haven’t heard it come on at all , and the coolant get hot , but I’m in sure if it’s circulating I’ve opened the the cap and the fluid level has dropped but it seems to be slowly moving , is that normal? And there is no temp gauge
 
   / FD620D #12  
The fan is behind the radiator. There is switch in the right side of the radiator that turns it on. You could unplug the switch and jumper the two wires and see if fan comes on. If it does, the switch is bad. Mine failed. You can replace with little coolant loss, if you are quick and have everything ready (new switch). I had to pull the right front wheel and inner fender.
There is red light on the dash that comes on if the coolant get too hot.
 
   / FD620D #13  
The fan is behind the radiator. There is switch in the right side of the radiator that turns it on.
The Gator 6x4 I am working on has a switch for the rad fan, too, but it is added by a PO. The wiring diagram has no switch there, and the installation is DIY-crappy. Not OEM. Not that DIY is always crappy. In the OEM case, the fan will always go on if the coolant is hot enough, and stay on, even when you shut off the ignition. Maybe the high-option Mules have a temp warning light?

Anyway, my fan was dead, and it shoulda been a pusher-fan. I bought a new one for $20, total.

Also just bought a new aftermarket carb. The OEM Mikuni had too much corrosion. Both will accommodate either a heater or a cable-operated choke. This one-barrel carb is absurdly small for an engine this size. The Honda, Kohler, and Briggs twins all use larger carbs.
 
   / FD620D #14  
The Gator 6x4 I am working on has a switch for the rad fan, too, but it is added by a PO. The wiring diagram has no switch there, and the installation is DIY-crappy. Not OEM. Not that DIY is always crappy. In the OEM case, the fan will always go on if the coolant is hot enough, and stay on, even when you shut off the ignition. Maybe the high-option Mules have a temp warning light?

Anyway, my fan was dead, and it shoulda been a pusher-fan. I bought a new one for $20, total.

Also just bought a new aftermarket carb. The OEM Mikuni had too much corrosion. Both will accommodate either a heater or a cable-operated choke. This one-barrel carb is absurdly small for an engine this size. The Honda, Kohler, and Briggs twins all use larger carbs.
My 1996 Kawasaki Mule 2510 had high temp warning light (no options). No gauges, other than fuel gauge on the tank and an hour meter.
It's fan would run key on or off. Many times when I quit for the day and parked it in the barn, the fan would soon start. Usually driving moved enough air through the radiator the fan did not run.
 
   / FD620D #15  
Just pulled my Gator radiator yesterday, and it seems to be a 1996 model. My dash has the water temp warning light. The always-on rad fan can run the battery down if parked when hot, so it is not the best design. Some cars have this "feature", too.
 
   / FD620D
  • Thread Starter
#16  
Thank you ..
My fan does not come on at all , but I can put my hand on the head of the engine, it’s not cool by any means but also not scalding hot like it’s overheating. Can some one post a picture of your dash ? Mine is a whole lot of blank holes , and warn off stickers ? Just so I can see what it’s supposed to look like . I’m guessning my fan is dead as well or I have an electrical issue. Is there “something “ that would be directly under the drivers seat ? Mine has some wires hanging , and a rather large open space , where it seems some kind of part should be ...
Thanks again
 
   / FD620D #17  
Just pulled my Gator radiator yesterday, and it seems to be a 1996 model. My dash has the water temp warning light. The always-on rad fan can run the battery down if parked when hot, so it is not the best design. Some cars have this "feature", too.
My 1996 never ran the fan long enough to run the battery down at shutdown.
 
   / FD620D #18  
Thank you ..
My fan does not come on at all , but I can put my hand on the head of the engine, it’s not cool by any means but also not scalding hot like it’s overheating. Can some one post a picture of your dash ? Mine is a whole lot of blank holes , and warn off stickers ? Just so I can see what it’s supposed to look like . I’m guessning my fan is dead as well or I have an electrical issue. Is there “something “ that would be directly under the drivers seat ? Mine has some wires hanging , and a rather large open space , where it seems some kind of part should be ...
Thanks again
Under the seat were multiple fuses, each in a snapped closed enclosure. Do you have any wire ends with terminals for the glass style fuses? Only other thing under the seat was the air filter box
I would unplug the radiator switch and jumper the connector to test the fan.
My Mule is gone, so I can't take picture. It had two round knobs with locks you lifted to move the knob, left was rear axle lock. Right was Hi/Lo Range. A toggle switch for the headlights, a red light for high temp. The forward reverse lever. A hole to view the master cylinder fluid level. That's all I recall.
 
   / FD620D
  • Thread Starter
#19  
So I found the fan , jumped it to 12v and it came on and sounds normal , I’d guess that either I haven’t ran it long enough, or the coolant temp switch is bad but when I open the cap on the coolant line under the seat , the fluid levels pulses .. as the engine is running
 
   / FD620D #20  
Have you found the dash warning light? Checked the bulb? I never had the dash light come on until the the switch on the radiator failed. My fan rarely came on. It would come on the most at shutdown. Then it did not run very long.
 

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