Need Advice Ford 1700 Upper Radiator Hose Burst

Justadudewithatractor · Mar 9, 2021

JC, I agree that jacking up the entire rig would be the way to go, but I took the "uh oh, well let's just go for it" approach, which is a roll of the dice.

Start engine - √
Idle up - √
Lift frontloader...... √
Check assembly, everything holding? √
Engage 1st gear - √
Sloooooooowly let out clutch, roll 1 foot and engage clutch - √
All sounded normal? √
Drive out of the shop in 1st gear slowest - √
Sound normal? √

I upped the gears and eventually had it in 2/2 with mid throttle. Took it for a spin around the yard. Tested the front by going a small but muddy/slippery incline and the front tires were turning. I had some left over gravel in the bucket that I took over to the pile to be emptied. All worked as it should. Got it back in the shop and upon inspecting all the work - everything held in place. Tomorrow I will re-address the bolts holding the assembly to the engine block adding locktight to each one. Same with the pivot bolts.

I'm thinking my next job on the tractor should be draining and replacing the hydraulic fluid.

Thanks!

JC-jetro · Mar 10, 2021

All Sounds good. Obviously , you will do one bolt at a time just to put a loctite and tighten. Don't torque it at that time. in a criss cross manner do all the bolts for each side and then immediately after that torque them. You do not want to get a loctite dried out before torquing. It is a very good idea to change the hyd oil. Can help you out on that, remember the same oil is in you rear 3 point lift cylinder and loader and you want to remove as much oil possible. warmer oil is easier to dump than cold. For sure you want to remove all junk build up in the bottom of rear diffy (oil resevoir) . it will be thick sludge there that will not flow by gravity. You have done well for yourself from " hood not lining up" to a monster job for many folks!

JC,

Justadudewithatractor · Mar 19, 2021

Alright, time to cut some pastures! Greased the bush hog, oil levels good. Got running, the bolts are holding. Decided to get in and cut some swamp grass, took it back about 20ish feet towards the creek.

And BAM, my first time stuck.

Never fear, watched a youtube video on how to get out and BAM, I was out!

Next on the list:

Hydraulic fluid. First the fluid probably hasn't been check in many many years. The stick won't budge. Put wd40 and need to use locking pliers to get it loose.
Sharpen blades on Bush Hog. Either that or replace them.
Check to see if front axle is actually engaged, meaning I didn't know that I had to flip the switch to engage the axle. I thought it was always engaged.

Everything else seems to be holding tight.

Thanks All!

airbiscuit · Mar 19, 2021

Don't sharpen your blades knife sharp, they should be slightly dull. Yes, you have to engage the 4wd. You probably also have a differential lock tha you engage with your heel. Good to see it working. Get yourself an operators manual!

Justadudewithatractor · Mar 19, 2021

airbiscuit said:
Don't sharpen your blades knife sharp, they should be slightly dull. Yes, you have to engage the 4wd. You probably also have a differential lock tha you engage with your heel. Good to see it working. Get yourself an operators manual!

Owner's manual!?! I thought that's what Youtube was for! Kidding aside, you're right, need to pick one up. I did figure out the differential when I saw the video on how to get unstuck with the front loader. I'm guessing that to engage the 4wd, put in neutral, flip the handle and go. I'm not seeing anything else to lock or change settings.

JC-jetro · Mar 19, 2021

I can send you scan of parts of the owner's manual. Make sure your hyd fluid is NH-134 or equal. I have used TSC Mystick 134 hyd fluid with no issues for two oil changes in the 12 years and had no issue. Make sure change the inhjector pump oil which is the same as what you use for the engine. I have been using Rotella 15w40 heavy duty diesel oil for many years and had no issues. if you need help chime in.

Looking good.

JC,