Need Advice Ford 1700 Upper Radiator Hose Burst

[JC-jetro]

Ok. Good, we're playing quite a Sherlock Holmes here,,,," but who did it my dear Watson!! ". Probably the bolts got lose and vibration wallowed out the hole/thread. The pic below is exactly the same as diagram I downloaded from CNH. Obviously, no one expect the whole removal of front axle to allow for shaft replacement. There is procedure to do that along with use of sliding coupler.

As for the forward drive shaft, here's a photo of the rear portion. I think portion of what holds the shaft sleeve could be removed from transfer case to drop the drive shaft for inspection and put back in reverse. I can research that when you get to that point. Does the inner shaft turn? have you checked it? I think you are gaining on it. Loctite and torque ans see how it functions

 

[airbiscuit]

Here are a couple of posts on TBN regarding removal of front driveshaft

I don't know how much difference there is from a 1700 to a 1710, but my 1700 was easy. Just remove the bolts front and rear at the drive shaft, remove the front pivot for the axle and roll the front end forward to provide clearance ot remove the drive shaft. There are splines on each end with a coupling that just slid off. Oh you might have to drain some oil.

Ford 1910 -Put the "collar" back on. The driveshaft is captive until the differential or the drop box move away from the driveshaft. As a practical matter, the easiest way for you to remove the driveshaft is to unbolt the front axle pivot trunnions from the front frame and roll the axle ahead a few inches. Plan on disconnecting the front of the drag link to make life easier. Removing the drop box is an alternative, but you will drain the hydraulic oil either before or concurrently with the removal of the drop box from the rear axle center section.

 

[JC-jetro]

Thanks airbiscuit, It is about where I was going with it. Nice!

 

[Justadudewithatractor]

Here are a couple of posts on TBN regarding removal of front driveshaft

I don't know how much difference there is from a 1700 to a 1710, but my 1700 was easy. Just remove the bolts front and rear at the drive shaft, remove the front pivot for the axle and roll the front end forward to provide clearance ot remove the drive shaft. There are splines on each end with a coupling that just slid off. Oh you might have to drain some oil.

Ford 1910 -Put the "collar" back on. The driveshaft is captive until the differential or the drop box move away from the driveshaft. As a practical matter, the easiest way for you to remove the driveshaft is to unbolt the front axle pivot trunnions from the front frame and roll the axle ahead a few inches. Plan on disconnecting the front of the drag link to make life easier. Removing the drop box is an alternative, but you will drain the hydraulic oil either before or concurrently with the removal of the drop box from the rear axle center section.

I think this came apart basically because when the loader was up, the assembly tipped forward and the two pieces moved away from each other. Thanks for the info and I'll give it a go!

I wish I had a photo of the assembly tilted forward for you to see. the approximately 30˚ forward from the tractor.

Thanks again for all your help!

 

[Justadudewithatractor]

So I'm in the process of figuring out what the pivot trunnions are and from what I've seen, it's what these bolts are holding:


So if I have this correct:

1. Jack and support the front end.
2. Remove these 4 bolts,
3. lift the front end some more,
4. move the axle forward,
5. lift the drive connector up,
6. move the axle back inserting the part into the drive connector,
7. Move axle back into place
8. reconnect the removed bolts into existing holes.
9. tighten the living bageezus out of the bolts.

Am I in the ballpark?

Thanks!

 

[JC-jetro]

Have not done this particular Job, have to research it some. I will be out of town all day tomorrow for work. Hope someone who has done chime in, otherwise will get back to you on Thursday.

1- That Picture appears to be the front axle. Right? usually when you raise the tracotr in front the you support it on two jack stands and on either side of the pivot. in thi scase it is quite different. You can raise the tractor on the pivot point with a floor jack but you have to lower and set on jack stand on the front bumper of the tractor. Your bumper is wide enough for two jack stands. You raise and lower on jack stands on the front axle would pivot up and down, just like a teeter totter. You can use the loader to raise the front, but I do not all recommend it as it is real dangerous specially with your rig. When you loosen the trunion bolt the front axle wants t drop and is quit heavy so you need to have a jack stand on the bottom to not only slowly lower it but also push a bit forward to line up the shaft and couplerup and then you have to reverse or basically push it all back together and put the trunion bolt in place and tighten it beetter than gooten tight. Easier said that done.

2- Pivot point is at the trnion. About the same mechanism that you have table saw blade assembly, being able to raise and tit the blade. kind of, sort of 1/2 bearing that allows for pivoting of the axle so front axle would follow the contour of the front wheel as they travel. No spring there in tractors.


I hope that helped for now.

JC,

 

[Justadudewithatractor]

Have not done this particular Job, have to research it some. I will be out of town all day tomorrow for work. Hope someone who has done chime in, otherwise will get back to you on Thursday. 1- That Picture appears to be the front axle. Right? usually when you raise the tracotr in front the you support it on two jack stands and on either side of the pivot. in thi scase it is quite different. You can raise the tractor on the pivot point with a floor jack but you have to lower and set on jack stand on the front bumper of the tractor. Your bumper is wide enough for two jack stands. You raise and lower on jack stands on the front axle would pivot up and down, just like a teeter totter. You can use the loader to raise the front, but I do not all recommend it as it is real dangerous specially with your rig. When you loosen the trunion bolt the front axle wants t drop and is quit heavy so you need to have a jack stand on the bottom to not only slowly lower it but also push a bit forward to line up the shaft and couplerup and then you have to reverse or basically push it all back together and put the trunion bolt in place and tighten it beetter than gooten tight. Easier said that done. 2- Pivot point is at the trnion. About the same mechanism that you have table saw blade assembly, being able to raise and tit the blade. kind of, sort of 1/2 bearing that allows for pivoting of the axle so front axle would follow the contour of the front wheel as they travel. No spring there in tractors. I hope that helped for now. JC,

 

[JC-jetro]

Awsome, so you got it all lined up and sucked together? Heck of lot batter than it looked. where you able to see if FWA work without any crunch noise coming from drive shat spline are or transmission?

 

[Justadudewithatractor]

Awsome, so you got it all lined up and sucked together? Heck of lot batter than it looked. where you able to see if FWA work without any crunch noise coming from drive shat spline are or transmission?

JC, when I posted the photos, there was a glitch in the new forum and I couldn't write anything. Since I don't know any of the parts, I had spent all day yesterday trying to figure out where the Pivot was and trunnion sounds like something I should eat as a last resort. At about 1am pst, I had an ah-ha moment looking up the parts on Ebay of all places. Once I saw a used pivot for the Ford 1700, it all made sense.

In posting the photos, which I'll post again here, I was making sure that these are the bolts needed to be loosened to then lower the front axle and roll it forward to attach everything. Roll it back into position, lift with jack and bolt everything back together.

I tried to just start to loosen these and it's gonna be a tough one.

 

[JC-jetro]

JC, when I posted the photos, there was a glitch in the new forum and I couldn't write anything. Since I don't know any of the parts, I had spent all day yesterday trying to figure out where the Pivot was and trunnion sounds like something I should eat as a last resort. At about 1am pst, I had an ah-ha moment looking up the parts on Ebay of all places. Once I saw a used pivot for the Ford 1700, it all made sense.

In posting the photos, which I'll post again here, I was making sure that these are the bolts needed to be loosened to then lower the front axle and roll it forward to attach everything. Roll it back into position, lift with jack and bolt everything back together.

I tried to just start to loosen these and it's gonna be a tough one.

View attachment 688685

Ok. I Looked at second pic very quickly when I got back home last night and did not go back and look at the separated joint to see the lip is part of trunion. Yup, you are right on the procedure. Remember I had two PDFs that showed complete breakdown of front diffy. Remember you have to lift the tractor from the front bumper so there would be no load on the axle and need to support the pivot point of the axle on floor jack. Don't try to eat trunion as it will give you a stomach ache, he he. I don't know if you have 3/4" ratchet set, that along with proper respectable cheater bar would be adequate to loosen those two bolts unless you have a very high torque impact wrench. A breaker bar and a cheater and deep impact socket would also work. Use a propane torch and put a bit of heat on the bolts and then use some penetrating oil to help loosening things up a bit. Most likely they have some loctite on those two bolts. just take your time and make sure the tractor back wheel is chocked well and bumper is supported on jack stands (two ) and front tires are off of floor. Good luck.

JC