When do you replace tires?

[Lefty7]

I have 80 acres. This is located in an area called the Channeled Scablands - a large area abutting the Palouse on the north side. Several small spots on the property have exposed bedrock. This is basaltic lava bedrock. It can be as sharp as your grandfather's old straight razor.

I either avoid these spots or roll gingerly over them. They took large chunks out of the R-1's on my first tractor. So far, on the M6040, I'm OK. Live and learn.

In the 'One Thing to Remember Dept.': I had a local tire joint order and then mount a new ag tread front tire on the rim for my 'Bota L3940 - but I forgot to tell them: "keep the traction ribs going in the same direction as the old tire". I snatched the tire from them at 4:59pm on a Friday, and it was backwards. (This was not a tractor place!) I took it home, since I needed the tractor over the weekend, but then got them to flip it 'round the following week. A lotta extra mounting and dismounting and running-around hoo-hah. So mention it to the installer if it ain't your tractor dealer. ~Lefty7

 

[5030]

Neither of my M9's, 2002 and 2004 have any rim rust inside or outside. Internal rust is usually caused by loading tires which I do not do and external rust is caused by lack of preventative maintenance, like scratches and chips in the paint, which if left untreated will start to rust. My rims all get painted every other year or more often if they get scratched.

This last set of tires, even the tire guy remarked how good my rims looked inside, the OEM finish was fully intact and no rust anywhere and remember I farm with mine, not play toys.

Never had a rim issue but I do take care of my tractors, they are an investment for me.

 

[Rebeldad1]

Tires are cheap. Online sellers right to your door.

When you think you need tires you probably do.

Safety is expensive if ignored

If you have a front loader it is hard on tires.

Worn tires change the front to rear gear ratio on 4x4 tractors. Binding up gears can get really expensive.... on most into the thousands to fix if fixable.

Your choice. you will find many on here who are very satisfied to run till they drop. Never had a issue. Some on here had the issue and wished they changed them sooner.

 

[5030]

Tires are cheap. Online sellers right to your door.

Might work for little tractor tires, don't work for the big ones like I have

When you think you need tires you probably do.

Safety is expensive if ignored

If you have a front loader it is hard on tires.

Only if underinflated for the most part.

Worn tires change the front to rear gear ratio on 4x4 tractors. Binding up gears can get really expensive.... on most into the thousands to fix if fixable.

That is called the lead-lag ratio when the tires aren't balanced front to rear, binding occurs in the driveline when running in FWA. On both mine Kubota thoughtfully uses a splined coupler between the output shaft from the transmission and the input pinion shaft on the front differential. Both shafts are hardened, the coupler isn't. When the coupler wears (and you can hear it) time to replace it. I've replaced them more than once. Easy to do. Remove the driveshaft shield, drive out the roll pin, install a new coupler, replace the roll pin, replace the shaft cover. Coupler costs 50 bucks at the dealer and takes about 10 minutes. All FWA Kubota Tractors use the same arrangement. Not sure about other brands.

Your choice. you will find many on here who are very satisfied to run till they drop. Never had a issue. Some on here had the issue and wished they changed them sooner.

 

[Henro]

Well, I have 1800 plus hours on my B2910 with the original R4 tires and still going strong. Now my fronts are foam filled, but still satisfactory tread depth left. AND I never drive on pavement, so that may make a larger difference.

To replace rear tires that still have a lot of live left simply because the fronts need replaced makes little sense to me. But it is not my tractor or my money...

Edit: Someone above said "tires are cheap"! I guess I am cheap also, as last time I saw prices for rear tires, which I do not need, I thought wow! Expensive!

2nd edit: I did not realize there were three pages to this post...replied after the first page...still have to read the following two pages...

 

[Bearsixty7]

Front to rear tire ratio shouldn't even be a concern because you better only be using FWD when you're in low traction conditions anyway so whatever tires need to slip, can.

 

[5030]

Front to rear tire ratio shouldn't even be a concern because you better only be using FWD when you're in low traction conditions anyway so whatever tires need to slip, can.

I've heard both ways but candidly I don't know if lead-lag is important when not in FWA. Again, I very seldom run either of mine in FWA but I'm still replacing the splined coupler every 500 hours or so, so it must put a rotational load on the front driveshaft anyway.

 

[RancherGuy]

I replaced my fronts after about 900 hours(do a bit of road running),the rears are fine.Ordered online had a local shop replace.
Fronts are easy ,rears no so much.

If you are doing road running, then wear is expected, especially the fronts since they are running more psi due to width & weight. If it were me, I would never replace the rears unless they are problems. Unlike road vehicles, age is not an issue because speed, thus safety is not the issue. Cracks or lug chips are no reason except cosmetic to change. Lug wear such as what you had with the fronts is a reason if you want to restore original traction. If there are leaks, add a tube. I once had 30 YO tires at 75% and kept getting splinters that would pierce the carcass due to shredding of small trees. I tired of monthly visits from the mobile tire man, so I replaced those tires, which stopped the flats, so it was money well spent. The tires were good but after that much time they were not as puncture resistant.

 

[5030]

Motto of the story, run 'em until they are bald or puke.

 

[N80]

I do not run on pavement. I use the loader a lot. Mine stays in 4wd. Because it needs to. Lead-lag is generally not a serious issue based on wear for me since with my terrain there is always the ability to slip if needed.

If I do tires I will replace them myself. B-I-L has a large Ag shop just across the pasture and he will help me. I've helped him do his big machines. I've done the fronts on mine myself. They're little.

My rears are loaded. Because they need to be. But, it was done at the dealer. I have no idea what they put in there.

Anyway, the rears on mine look like they will be around $1000 each. Think I'll hold off a while. Might look into a set of those new R-14s when the time comes. Haven't priced them. Sure it will be shocking.