Hydraulic top link on BX

[mwemaxxowner]

Awesome. I might check out tilt cylinders while I'm at it. I also have a Southern States nearby and a TSC opening not a mile from the house.

Doc, what tractor is yours on? I've read about some BX owners with factory rear remotes having trouble with HTL leak down while operating. I wonder if I need to search for one with a check valve.

 

[Doc G]

That's a great question and I have an interesting answer for you with some pics; I'll try to find time to type it up later this afternoon.

[Later that afternoon...]

I added one rear remote to my L3200, essentially the same tractor as the current L3301. The Kubota remote kit for the L3200/3800/2501/3301/3901 is not cheap but it's well-made, works well and looks great. So it is the factory valve.

The next two pics were taken just over 24 hours apart, showing that there is very little leakdown. (The mower's weight is extending the top link cylinder.) At the cylinder, over 24 hours there was less than 1/2" extension. Results may vary from valve to valve, depending on time of year, and whether the hydro fluid is cold/hot just before starting the test. But overall I have been super pleased with this valve, and the factory FEL valve too.

The next two pics get to your question about check valves. I installed a remote valve with a "float" option because there are times I'll want the cylinder to move back and forth freely so that, for example, a mower can follow the ground ups and downs. On the other hand there are times I'll want the cylinder to remain exactly where I put it, for example pulling a disc plow or supporting a heavy weight like ballast or a sprayer.

Cylinders with pilot-operated check valves stay where your valve puts them and do not move. HOWEVER you cannot use a float option with check valves. So my solution was to install a manual shut-off valve in one of the cylinder pressure lines. On occasions where I really want the cylinder locked tight, I can simply close the manual valve. Honestly, I have only used it once since then because the remote valve is so good.

Hope all this helps. Bottom line: I'd try the basic cylinder, no checks, first. Do a weighted 24-hour leak down test and see what you think. You can always upgrade to a pilot-operated check cylinder later if you need.

 

[mwemaxxowner]

I appreciate it!

 

[Snowlan]

Agristore USA sell top link cylinders with the check valve arrangement included at good prices. They also sell hose kits. I'm ordering through them once I get home and confirm my top link lengths on the new tractor, but will get hoses made locally because my remotes are directly beside the top link connection and the premade hoses are way too long.

 

[Doc G]

I appreciate it!

Replied in the original post.

 

[GordonE]

I ordered my BX1880 with rear remote valves, in hopes of adding a hydraulic top link some day. Some googling shows me that it's difficult to find one small enough to use on this tractor.

On a search that began completely unrelated to this, I was looking at the Pat's Easy Change vs quick hitch 3 point assisters.

On a comparison video, someone pointed out that th Pat's Easy Change sets your lower pin attachment points back approximately 4", but does not set your top link point back like a quick hitch does. He stated that he needed to get a longer top link for his tractor after switching to the P.E.C.

Well, a lightbulb went off. Does that mean I could use the P.E.C. for easy 3 point hitching, and add a longer hydraulic top link, that I'm assuming will be easier to find?

I own a BX2380 which is similiar to your tractor. I have a rear remote set and did add a hydraulic top link.
I did some measurement first and I believe I needed a cylinder with a retracted length of 13.75 inches and extended length of about 21 inches. I could not find such a cylinder anyplace.

I ended up getting a Prince Wolverine series swivel end cylinder with an 8 inch stroke and retracted length of 14.75. The 2 inch bore one also had 3/4 inch holes in the swivel ends to match up with the 3/4 in top link pins on the tractor.

However the amount of space where the rear remotes and the top link are loocated is very tight. The fittings coming of the cylinder did impact the back of my QH in the raised position. So I had to cut an opening in the QH so the fitting would not interfere. Also when the 3 point is raised fully up the back of the QH will hit the fitting plugged into the rear remote. I used NPT 90 degree fittings on the cables plugged into the rear remotes but I think ORB would have been better. They would have taken up a little less room and reduced the interference.

Overall I am happy I have the rear remotes and the QH.

Good luck.

 

[mwemaxxowner]

I have decided not to use a quick hitch, but the "Pat's Easy Change" instead. Hopefully this will help.

 

[workinonit]

Agristore USA sell top link cylinders with the check valve arrangement included at good prices. They also sell hose kits. I'm ordering through them once I get home and confirm my top link lengths on the new tractor, but will get hoses made locally because my remotes are directly beside the top link connection and the premade hoses are way too long.

How long do you need them. Ag Supply has from 1 foot up. I think I used 3 footers. My remotes are just beside my cylinder.

 

[mwemaxxowner]

For the things I'll be doing with this tractor, I don't know if I'll ever need it, but what about a tilt cylinder? Am I going to have a tough time finding a cylinder that works for me there?

 

[Rowalker]

I ordered my BX1880 with rear remote valves, in hopes of adding a hydraulic top link some day. Some googling shows me that it's difficult to find one small enough to use on this tractor.

On a search that began completely unrelated to this, I was looking at the Pat's Easy Change vs quick hitch 3 point assisters.

On a comparison video, someone pointed out that th Pat's Easy Change sets your lower pin attachment points back approximately 4", but does not set your top link point back like a quick hitch does. He stated that he needed to get a longer top link for his tractor after switching to the P.E.C.

Well, a lightbulb went off. Does that mean I could use the P.E.C. for easy 3 point hitching, and add a longer hydraulic top link, that I'm assuming will be easier to find?

That is exactly what I did and it works fine