Binders and chain

   / Binders and chain #1  

gilraine

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Jun 28, 2010
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eastern CT
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I just got new chains and binders for my 18 foot 10k equipment hauler. I mistakenly ordered 5/16 chains but 3/8 binders. The hook on the binder grabs the chain well but has anyone had any issues with this?
 
   / Binders and chain #2  
I just got new chains and binders for my 18 foot 10k equipment hauler. I mistakenly ordered 5/16 chains but 3/8 binders. The hook on the binder grabs the chain well but has anyone had any issues with th
They should be fine!
 
   / Binders and chain #3  
Have been using that exact setup for several years now with no issues at all! Gives some flexibility if you have to use 3/8 chains.
 
   / Binders and chain #4  
Most binders are marketed as dual size. Look closely on the binder, there’s a chance it’s dual marked. Even if not, using a one size smaller chain is acceptable.
 

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   / Binders and chain #5  
On my 16" 7K car hauler and 28' GN flatbed, I used 5/16 chain and ratchet binders. When hauling my B7800 Kubota on the 16', I used 2 chains and 4 binders. Front, hooked each hook in the grille guard and then hooked the binder to a stake pocket and the chain, pulling out at an angle towards the front on each side. Did the same on the rear, pulling at an angle backwards. This is still 4 point chaining, but using only 2 chains.
 
   / Binders and chain #6  
On my 16" 7K car hauler and 28' GN flatbed, I used 5/16 chain and ratchet binders. When hauling my B7800 Kubota on the 16', I used 2 chains and 4 binders. Front, hooked each hook in the grille guard and then hooked the binder to a stake pocket and the chain, pulling out at an angle towards the front on each side. Did the same on the rear, pulling at an angle backwards. This is still 4 point chaining, but using only 2 chains.
I have so many chains that I do not need to conserve the use of them.
 
   / Binders and chain #7  
I had not thought of that Thanks for posting.
 
   / Binders and chain #8  
I'm lazy, I like to chain the front then back up 'til the front tires squash, set the hand brake and then chain the rear using but one binder.
Next drive for a bit, stop, and check all my work for tension.
Oh, and I like to wrap the binder lever with a bungee or wire 'just in case'.
(That is ever since I once arrived at a destination to find an opened binder and floppy lose chain.)
 
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   / Binders and chain #9  
I'm lazy, I like to chain the front then back up 'til the front tires squash, set the hand brake and then chain the rear using but one binder.
Next drive for a bit, stop, and check all my work for tension.
Oh, and I like to wrap the binder lever with a bungee or wire 'just in case'.
(That is ever since I once arrived at a destination to find an opened binder and floppy lose chain.)
This is why I use ratchet binders now. Also, have had a few bruises from the lever style.
 
   / Binders and chain #10  
I'm lazy, I like to chain the front then back up 'til the front tires squash, set the hand brake and then chain the rear using but one binder.
Next drive for a bit, stop, and check all my work for tension.
Oh, and I like to wrap the binder lever with a bungee or wire 'just in case'.
(That is ever since I once arrived at a destination to find an opened binder and floppy lose chain.)
I use to do this. Figured it ended up being as fast using 4 binders as using 2 and shifting the tractor. I had extra chain & binders so I've gone that route these days. Jumping on & off the trailer and then the machine the extra time loading & unloading is annoying. I can do binders from the ground. It is effective though.

Regardless check your chains after a mile or 2.
 

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