King kutter bush hog not performing like I need it to. Help.

[Jburks2]

First let me start of by saying I just joined tbn. I must say what a great place to get help and share things! Let me start by saying I first had a ls xg3135 with ag tires and a cheap 5’ Andy500 bush hog. And it cut really well which I liked because I do bush hogging and land clearing on the side. So the time came I’ve grew and needed something bigger. So I went with a ls xr4145 cab with “industrial tires” because I liked my first ls so much. Anyways, along with it bought a pretty well built king kutter 6’ bush hog. Supposed to be faster and better right? 10hp more 1’ wider cut. Not really the case. I cut some big lots in subdivisions and on the first lot with new tractor noticed that the cutter discharges right out of the back straight into the tail wheel which then rolls the thick grass and leaves big balls of grass that doesn’t look so well. So what I did eventually was cut bolt holes on the back and put a piece of old thick conveyor belt over the discharge as a flap
Kinda. Works good until you start cutting heavier stuff and it starts shredding the conveyer belt. Then I noticed it leaving grass and weeds here and there on the edges of cut. Almost like the tires are smashing it down and the bush hog not picking it up or picking it up a little and cutting it half way up and still leaving half standing. So then I find myself cutting half back which doesn’t speed up the process at all. I’ve done every adjustment I can to try and make it cut better. I’ve done research. I’ve heard that blade speed hurts suction. I’ve read to get better blades etc etc. bottom line I’ve got to make people very pleased with my work when I get done Because that’s who I am, and sometimes it leads to heavy equipment getting brought in for me to do more work after I get finished bush hogging. I wanted to get the expert opinions on tbn before I start spending money. I’m open to all options. Thank you!

 

[Molalla1]

First let me start of by saying I just joined tbn. I must say what a great place to get help and share things! Let me start by saying I first had a ls xg3135 with ag tires and a cheap 5’ Andy500 bush hog. And it cut really well which I liked because I do bush hogging and land clearing on the side. So the time came I’ve grew and needed something bigger. So I went with a ls xr4145 cab with “industrial tires” because I liked my first ls so much. Anyways, along with it bought a pretty well built king kutter 6’ bush hog. Supposed to be faster and better right? 10hp more 1’ wider cut. Not really the case. I cut some big lots in subdivisions and on the first lot with new tractor noticed that the cutter discharges right out of the back straight into the tail wheel which then rolls the thick grass and leaves big balls of grass that doesn’t look so well. So what I did eventually was cut bolt holes on the back and put a piece of old thick conveyor belt over the discharge as a flap
Kinda. Works good until you start cutting heavier stuff and it starts shredding the conveyer belt. Then I noticed it leaving grass and weeds here and there on the edges of cut. Almost like the tires are smashing it down and the bush hog not picking it up or picking it up a little and cutting it half way up and still leaving half standing. So then I find myself cutting half back which doesn’t speed up the process at all. I’ve done every adjustment I can to try and make it cut better. I’ve done research. I’ve heard that blade speed hurts suction. I’ve read to get better blades etc etc. bottom line I’ve got to make people very pleased with my work when I get done Because that’s who I am, and sometimes it leads to heavy equipment getting brought in for me to do more work after I get finished bush hogging. I wanted to get the expert opinions on tbn before I start spending money. I’m open to all options. Thank you!

OK Jburks2 . . . you tried the rear flap . . . sounds like your BH was designed for a rear discharge so you blocked it off hoping it would chop it up and keep the mass out of the tail wheel . . . did not work so well . . . maybe try chains on the back to break it up? That's what I have on two of my hogs seems to work well . . . also have a flail that gives a much better cut.

 

[Jburks2]

OK Jburks2 . . . you tried the rear flap . . . sounds like your BH was designed for a rear discharge so you blocked it off hoping it would chop it up and keep the mass out of the tail wheel . . . did not work so well . . . maybe try chains on the back to break it up? That's what I have on two of my hogs seems to work well . . . also have a flail that gives a much better cut.

It definitely helps keep everything from shooting straight at the tail wheel. One thing I thought about doing was fab a metal plate around the back to keep from having to replace rubber flap and also add more lift/mulching to help cut grass bush hog is leaving?

 

[Molalla1]

You do know what I am talking about putting chains on right? . . . it breaks up the discharge but does not trap it.

 

[Jburks2]

You do know what I am talking about putting chains on right? . . . it breaks up the discharge but does not trap it.

Oh for sure! What about the stuff it’s not cutting? Any suggestions

 

[Avenger]

King Kutter are not exactly top of the line. More like inexpensive and you get what you pay for. I have one. Not too impressed, but it does what I need it to do. I too have the same problem. I find myself overlapping my previous cut attempting to pickup and cut what the tractor wheels pushed down. Its just the nature of the beast. Chains on the rear will help with the clumping, also, slowing down and letting the blades mulch the material will help.
If your looking for a great finish in the lots, then you probably need a finish mower or offset fail mower designed for cutting grass (Y-blades). It sucks, I know.

 

[Molalla1]

Great post Avenger . . . if he is looking for a great cut (who isn't) flail is my choice, but depending on how often he cuts . . . a good BH is the way to go and slow down to your tractor's HP sweet spot.

 

[Jburks2]

King Kutter are not exactly top of the line. More like inexpensive and you get what you pay for. I have one. Not too impressed, but it does what I need it to do. I too have the same problem. I find myself overlapping my previous cut attempting to pickup and cut what the tractor wheels pushed down. Its just the nature of the beast. Chains on the rear will help with the clumping, also, slowing down and letting the blades mulch the material will help.
If your looking for a great finish in the lots, then you probably need a finish mower or offset fail mower designed for cutting grass (Y-blades). It sucks, I know.

Flail mower is a no go. People aren’t going to pay for me to come out more often to cut it before it gets to high. This south bahai grass will shoot up over night. Most of the time I bush hog when it’s a foot high or more. I’m not asking for a beautiful picture perfect lawn look. I just need to get full 6’ passes without leaving grass still standing here and there all over. Maybe I need to get a super expensive cutter? What brand?Maybe check with my dealer to see if he’ll help swap out my tires to ag tires to not mash down the grass as bad. I’m not sure

 

[Molalla1]

Flail mower is a no go. People aren’t going to pay for me to come out more often to cut it before it gets to high. This south bahai grass will shoot up over night. Most of the time I bush hog when it’s a foot high or more. I’m not asking for a beautiful picture perfect lawn look. I just need to get full 6’ passes without leaving grass still standing here and there all over. Maybe I need to get a super expensive cutter? What brand?Maybe check with my dealer to see if he’ll help swap out my tires to ag tires to not mash down the grass as bad. I’m not sure

OK . . . I wish FWJ was here . . . you then need a better hog period and now that you know a few things I believe you are better suited for a commercial hog.

 

[3gunr]

I have a 6 ft mahindra hog , which is a grizzly made mower, it cuts great , I cut very tall thick stuff , It mostly mulches it up. I also have an old woods 7 ft cadet , that cuts really nice,

 

[dusty3030]

Is this your cutter?

King Kutter. 6 FOOT LIFT KUTTER - 40HP GEARBOX

6 FOOT LIFT KUTTER - 40HP GEARBOX

www.kingkutter.com

I can't find the specs on the blade tip speed. The faster the better for a cleaner finished cut.

 

[Molalla1]

Mahindra, farms out to some great manufacturers . . . some not so great (Kodiak) he needs to get a commercial BH.

 

[Jburks2]

Y

Is this your cutter?

King Kutter. 6 FOOT LIFT KUTTER - 40HP GEARBOX

6 FOOT LIFT KUTTER - 40HP GEARBOX

www.kingkutter.com

I can't find the specs on the blade tip speed. The faster the better for a cleaner finished cut.

Yep that’s it!!

 

[Molalla1]

Y

Yep that’s it!!

Home owner's model . . .

 

[Jburks2]

Home owner's model . . .

Exactly. I will say one thing, it’s cut down some nasty nasty stuff and seemed to hold up good. Just not a all around performer like you mentioned! More for home owners!

 

[Molalla1]

Exactly. I will say one thing, it’s cut down some nasty nasty stuff and seemed to hold up good. Just not a all around performer like you mentioned! More for home owners!

Yes and you are not cutting just your place where time is not money . . . you know what you need my friend . . .

 

[Avenger]

Well, if you absolutely have to go with a rotary cutter, then I'd suggest Everything Attachments

Everything Attachments Wicked 72 Inch XTreme Duty Brush Cutter with Hardox Blades & Stump Jumper Tractors with up to 75 HP by Everything Attachments

Everything Attachments Wicked 72 Inch XTreme Duty Brush Cutter with Hardox Blades & Stump Jumper has a 75 HP gearbox on it with a slip clutch PTO shaft.

www.everythingattachments.com

As a disclaimer, I have never used, or even seen, a EA rotary cutter. But I do know their quality and dedication to over building and making the best attachment possible, whatever it is. But you will pay for it.

 

[Zebrafive]

Not much you can do about windrows from tires flattening it first, other than recut, sometimes from the opposite direction.
How fast do you mow? I know time is money, but slower might give better results.
Are you cutting with the rear of the deck about 1"higher than the front? That's the norm, takes less HP. But level or front slightly high might yield a better cut, (you will be cutting in effect twice) and it will mulch better.
Are you cutting when things are dry as possible?
Are your blades "flat" or trailing edge turned up (for suction)?
For brush you want dull/blunt cutting edge, for weeds/grasses a sharp blade.

If you buy another cutter, you may want to consider multiple spindle, that cuts offset.

 

[N80]

I've had a JD light duty bush hog for 16 years. Other than using some large batwing mowers to help a friend get his fields cut the JD is my sole experience with using a rotary cutter. But 16 years is a pretty long time.

There isn't much, in my opinion to differentiate one similarly spec'd rotary cutter and another other than longevity and durability. Deck. Gearbox. Blades.

Look at blade speed specs.

Anyway, all of this is to say that you cannot expect a machine to cut down trees _and_ mow your grass like a golf course. I have used mine for years to "mow the lawn" with the lawn being the fields around my cabin. If I cut it low, with the shoes pretty much on the ground, with high rpms and overlapping passes I can make it look okay (at best). Have worn my shoes out because of this. Mine does have chains on the back, which I like, but it still windrows to one side in deep grass.

I doubt a higher end similarly spec'd rotary cutter is going to be the answer. You might need two tools. After 16 years that is what finally dawned on me. I cut the true fields, rough stuff, roads and overgrown stuff with the rotary cutter and the "lawn" with a z-turn.

 

[Jburks2]

I've had a JD light duty bush hog for 16 years. Other than using some large batwing mowers to help a friend get his fields cut the JD is my sole experience with using a rotary cutter. But 16 years is a pretty long time.

There isn't much, in my opinion to differentiate one similarly spec'd rotary cutter and another other than longevity and durability. Deck. Gearbox. Blades.

Look at blade speed specs.

Anyway, all of this is to say that you cannot expect a machine to cut down trees _and_ mow your grass like a golf course. I have used mine for years to "mow the lawn" with the lawn being the fields around my cabin. If I cut it low, with the shoes pretty much on the ground, with high rpms and overlapping passes I can make it look okay (at best). Have worn my shoes out because of this. Mine does have chains on the back, which I like, but it still windrows to one side in deep grass.

I doubt a higher end similarly spec'd rotary cutter is going to be the answer. You might need two tools. After 16 years that is what finally dawned on me. I cut the true fields, rough stuff, roads and overgrown stuff with the rotary cutter and the "lawn" with a z-turn.

Wish I could find the blade speed specs on this king kutter. I would be willing to bet they’re not up to par with higher priced cutters. I’ve done a lot of bush hogging in my life and never had one leave grass standing like this. As mentioned in my opening statement my 35hp tractor and 5’ cutter was way better. Never had to cut half back or circle back to clip stragglers.