FWIW I had the same symptoms with an older Ford/NH 1620. It turned out to be a shorted glow plug that would pull the voltage down to near zero as soon as the key was turned to "start". Check the resistance of all of the glow plugs individually after removing the electrical connector ( E shaped strap on the 1620) that applies the 12V to them and also check to see whether the 12V appears on the connector link when you turn the key to "Start". On my tractor the fusible link blew in the battery circuit and after I replaced it it would get hot enough to melt insulation if the key were held on "Start". Good luck with yours.
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New Holland 2002 TC40D No start, no lights, only fuel gauge and dim oil light on dash works
- Thread starter Larry950
- Start date
- Views: 4452
dlctcg
Platinum Member
@Larry950 did you do the testing I suggested in Post #6... If so what were your findings? You can easily test the voltage at the starter solenoid with a multi-meter.
If you turn the ignition to the on / accessory position do all the lights come on? Does the glow plug light turn on & then switch to off prior to you turning the key to the start position?
If you turn the ignition to the on / accessory position do all the lights come on? Does the glow plug light turn on & then switch to off prior to you turning the key to the start position?
/ New Holland 2002 TC40D No start, no lights, only fuel gauge and dim oil light on dash works
#23
@Larry950 did you do the testing I suggested in Post #6... If so what were your findings? You can easily test the voltage at the starter solenoid with a multi-meter.
If you turn the ignition to the on / accessory position do all the lights come on? Does the glow plug light turn on & then switch to off prior to you turning the key to the start position
Problem solved friends. I checked the Positive cable and low and behold I had 68 to 105 ohms. Bingo voltage drop here. Ordered new cable from Messicks installed and problem solved. Thanks to all for the suggestions and ideas. All appreciated. It took some time to get back to all of you due to some bad storms and waiting for cable to come in.The fact your battery cable get warm makes me think... either battery cables (pos or neg) have internal corrosion or you are not getting 12V at the starter solenoid.... But here are some things to help with the diagnostics...
This is some info that I have posted previously that may help with the diagnosis.... I'm at work right now so just copied it....
Cable Test:
Older New Holland battery cables often corrode inside the terminal where it is sometimes impossible to see; not sure it was an issue with your particular yr / model... You will often have voltage so everything seems good. (gauges & all are working). So you will have voltage but they will not supply the required Amperage.
You can test if there is an issue with your existing battery cables pretty simply.
Remove the negative battery cable & then take a negative jumper cable wire and place it on the bare negative post of your tractor battery. Connect the other end to a solid clean ground of the tractor (bare metal location). Try starting the tractor & see if that makes a difference...
If that doesn't change anything you can do the same process on the positive post. Disconnect the Negative jumper from the Battery terminal. Then using your positive jumper cable attach one end to where the positive battery cable connects to the starter (connect this end first), and the other end to the positive battery post (last). Make sure the jumper cable is not able to arc to near by metal. Now reconnect the Negative jumper cable to the battery & try starting the tractor again & see if that changes anything...
Doing this process you basically bypassed the battery cables on the machine, and then can troubleshoot from there. I wouldn't put any more parts on it till I checked the factory cables...
Ignition Switch:
These are also prone to issues & can cause the issue your describing. (I'll see if I can find a testing procedure).... but check to see if you have voltage at the starter solenoid when the key is turned to start..
Starter Solenoid:
Make sure you have 12V at the starter solenoid when you turn the key to START...
If you see voltage only sometime I'm thinking it either a spotty ground or Ignition switch.
If you are see voltage Each time to turn the key yo the START position but it is less than 12V this will definitely cause an inconsistent starting issue. This circuit shares the voltage source this the glow plug timer (& I believe passes through some of the safety switches). Overtime the wiring & connection get dirty / lose there ability to pass the voltage. You can modify the current wiring & add a dedicated relay for supplying direct power to the starter solenoid via the same circuits. I did this on our TC40D & it made a big difference for our machine
/ New Holland 2002 TC40D No start, no lights, only fuel gauge and dim oil light on dash works
#24
Thanks for the help Positive battery cable bad!I really don't thick Dielectric Grease is your issue (I've been know to be wrong in the past & I'm not looking to discuss / argue the dielectric grease debate) but unless you have an entire tube of it in there preventing a tight connection... it's not your issue. Been using it in professionally in the field for electrical, telecommunications, & data connections since the early 90's & I don't think I could ever say Dielectric grease was the reason for failure on a properly tightened connection.
If your main battery cables are heating up it triggers a sign of resistance, which is a common problem with the NH cables they have internal corrosion that I mentioned in my first post (test them).
But now that I have time to re-read your post you mention "only fuel gauge and dim oil light on dash works".... are you not seeing the glow plug light cycle on & then off? That is a different issue...
/ New Holland 2002 TC40D No start, no lights, only fuel gauge and dim oil light on dash works
#25
Thanks the Positive battery cable was bad. Showed 68 to 105 ohms.The fact your battery cable get warm makes me think... either battery cables (pos or neg) have internal corrosion or you are not getting 12V at the starter solenoid.... But here are some things to help with the diagnostics...
This is some info that I have posted previously that may help with the diagnosis.... I'm at work right now so just copied it....
Cable Test:
Older New Holland battery cables often corrode inside the terminal where it is sometimes impossible to see; not sure it was an issue with your particular yr / model... You will often have voltage so everything seems good. (gauges & all are working). So you will have voltage but they will not supply the required Amperage.
You can test if there is an issue with your existing battery cables pretty simply.
Remove the negative battery cable & then take a negative jumper cable wire and place it on the bare negative post of your tractor battery. Connect the other end to a solid clean ground of the tractor (bare metal location). Try starting the tractor & see if that makes a difference...
If that doesn't change anything you can do the same process on the positive post. Disconnect the Negative jumper from the Battery terminal. Then using your positive jumper cable attach one end to where the positive battery cable connects to the starter (connect this end first), and the other end to the positive battery post (last). Make sure the jumper cable is not able to arc to near by metal. Now reconnect the Negative jumper cable to the battery & try starting the tractor again & see if that changes anything...
Doing this process you basically bypassed the battery cables on the machine, and then can troubleshoot from there. I wouldn't put any more parts on it till I checked the factory cables...
Ignition Switch:
These are also prone to issues & can cause the issue your describing. (I'll see if I can find a testing procedure).... but check to see if you have voltage at the starter solenoid when the key is turned to start..
Starter Solenoid:
Make sure you have 12V at the starter solenoid when you turn the key to START...
If you see voltage only sometime I'm thinking it either a spotty ground or Ignition switch.
If you are see voltage Each time to turn the key yo the START position but it is less than 12V this will definitely cause an inconsistent starting issue. This circuit shares the voltage source this the glow plug timer (& I believe passes through some of the safety switches). Overtime the wiring & connection get dirty / lose there ability to pass the voltage. You can modify the current wiring & add a dedicated relay for supplying direct power to the starter solenoid via the same circuits. I did this on our TC40D & it made a big difference for our machine
/ New Holland 2002 TC40D No start, no lights, only fuel gauge and dim oil light on dash works
#26
Ye did the testing and the positive battery cable was bad. Showed 60 to 105 ohms therefore a big voltage drop. Ordered new cable and bingo all is well. Thanks to all for the help and suggestions.@Larry950 did you do the testing I suggested in Post #6... If so what were your findings? You can easily test the voltage at the starter solenoid with a multi-meter.
If you turn the ignition to the on / accessory position do all the lights come on? Does the glow plug light turn on & then switch to off prior to you turning the key to the start position?
/ New Holland 2002 TC40D No start, no lights, only fuel gauge and dim oil light on dash works
#27
