My Industrial Cabin Build

   / My Industrial Cabin Build #2,461  
Here’s something to give you guys a laugh. I had my well drilled about 3 years ago. I need tonlook at the paperwork when I get home. I believe it was about 230 feet before hitting water. I the cap today to see what kind of adapter was needed to wire up the well pump and connect the line.
Uhh. Apparently that was not included. The pipe is empty. I don’t have a line or pump or anything.
I feel a little silly.
I could have sworn the guy who drilled it mentioned running a temporary electric line to it if I wanted. I guess he meant putting in the pump also.
How did he measure how much flow you are getting out of the well without a pump in the well? Did he put it in and then take it out? Have you been robbed? It's kind of hard to comprehend that they just left the well empty. Getting that pump into the well with all the pipe and wiring is a big job!!!!
 
   / My Industrial Cabin Build
  • Thread Starter
#2,462  
Well, I just finished my 4th coat of polish on the floors.
I pulled up the contract for the well on my phone. Did not include a pump. I will be checking my receipt at home for the exact depth.
It was $18/foot plus $350 for grout plus$45 for a well cap.
If memory serves we went 238 feet before hitting water and it delivered 30gal/min.
Looks like I have another project on my hands. I also noticed that this well cap isnt closed. There is a female threaded inlet under the cap. My first picture I can find of the well is April 2018 and it looks pretty much the same. I did not look under like this.
IMG_4691.jpg


IMG_4690.jpg


IMG_4689.jpg
 
   / My Industrial Cabin Build #2,463  
That’s typical here, a “buildable lot” has to have a well and valid perk. “Land” for sale does not.
The well will not have a pump unless you include that in the job.
I installed my own pump in my 200 ft well. Lot easier putting it in than taking it out, which I’ve done twice.
Dig down about 3’ along the side of the casing where you want the line to come out. Install a pitless adapter in the side of the casing from the inside. Make a 4 ft long tee with 1” pipe to install the adapter.
Once you have that installed, pull the adapter, the well pipe hangs from it. I used 1” black poly pipe, leave the pump about 20 ft off the bottom to avoid sediment. Use stainless adapters. Use 3conductor wire rated for water (plumbing supply house has it) it needs to go to top of casing. Put the pump starter capacitor in the house, which is why you use 3/c wire.
When you put pipe from house to well, put 3/c electric wire with it. Water line from house connects to outside of pitless adapter. Electric wire comes up along side the casing and will connect thru the well cap. Sleeve electric wire from cap into ground with conduit piece.

Or hire a plumber, they do this all the time.
 
   / My Industrial Cabin Build
  • Thread Starter
#2,464  
Thanks Buckeye. That explains all the steps very well.
When I got home tonight I pulled the file on the well. 210 feet.
0-65 feet is 10 inch pvc
65-210 is 6 inch.
This will be an adventure.
I am about to go into Lowes for pex fittings. I will price the pump and pitless adapters etc.
 
   / My Industrial Cabin Build #2,465  
How did he measure how much flow you are getting out of the well without a pump in the well? Did he put it in and then take it out? Have you been robbed? It's kind of hard to comprehend that they just left the well empty. Getting that pump into the well with all the pipe and wiring is a big job!!!!
The flow is measured while the drill rig is drilling the well. It’s done by making a temporary dam to collect the water that compressed air is pushing out the top of the casing. Make an outlet in the dam with a piece of pipe and time how long it takes to fill a container, such as a 5 gallon bucket. One minute to fill bucket=5/gpm well output. It’s admittedly a fairly crude measurement, but that’s how it‘s done. You can hire a hydrologist with the right equipment and run a long term test measuring the output and the water level, but that will cost you.
 
   / My Industrial Cabin Build #2,466  
Thanks Buckeye. That explains all the steps very well.
When I got home tonight I pulled the file on the well. 210 feet.
0-65 feet is 10 inch pvc
65-210 is 6 inch.
This will be an adventure.
I am about to go into Lowes for pex fittings. I will price the pump and pitless adapters etc.
That casing appears to be 6” PVC. The 10” probably refers to the hole they drilled to drop the casing in to where they hit bedrock. Once they hit bedrock the well is drilled in solid rock, no casing. That’s the way it works with the local geology east of the Blue Ridge Mountains where you are in Free Union. If you were in the Shenandoah Valley it would be a different story, bedrock is roughly 1000’ down there. Black poly pipe is a better choice than Pex for your drop pipe, use 250 psi, they made the wall thickness of poly pipe thinner a couple of years ago and the lighter pipe tends to crimp. Pump choice has more to it than meets the eye, the higher gpm the pump is for a given horsepower the cheaper it is since the fewer stages the pump has the less pressure it can build. A 1/2 hp 10 gpm pump might be ok for a well that 100‘ deep, but you’ll need a 1/2 hp 5 gpm pump for a 200’ well. You’ll want to know how many gpm your well puts out and total head pressure to choose the pump. You’ll want to set the pump 15’ or so off the bottom of the well. I’d use a two wire pump in your situation where the pump will be 195’ down, it’s not that terrible to pull a pump up by hand from that depth. The 3 wire pumps have the relay and capacitor in a box near the pressure switch so you can replace some parts without pulling the pump, but my experience is it doesn’t help often enough to justify the extra wire and expense. On a deeper well, it makes more sense. If you were generally happy with your driller, it’s worth considering having him install the pump, pressure tank and associated pipe and cable, he has the equipment to get it done quickly and you no doubt have plenty of other things on your plate. If you do it yourself, I wouldn’t buy the materials from Lowe’s, Driller’s Service out in Zion’s Crossroads will have everything needed and they have people who know what they’re selling—Lowe’s, not so much.
 
   / My Industrial Cabin Build #2,467  
I only use Gould pumps. Get the heavy psi poly. All my pump, pipe, etc came from Nolands, which I believe they have down your way.
Will have to heat shrink the electrical connection at the pump. The have torque arresters you can put on the pipe to prevent wear from rubbing the side of the well. I’ve had to pull mine twice, 1st time electric wire rubbed on side of well , 2nd time had a hole in the pipe about 10 ft above the pump. That time I pulled it and my neighbor (a plumber) fixed it and put it back while I was at work. He helped me do the initial install also, and once replaced my pressure tank.
I really recommend the starter in the house. I had to replace mine once, nice changing it on the wall in the basement instead of pulling the pump.
 
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   / My Industrial Cabin Build #2,469  
This is a big bummer for you ! Have you contacted the well driller ? I would contact them and see what they advise since it has been 3 years and nothing done on the well. They might want to come out and see if the well is still good at 218 ft ? The water level could have dropped in that amount time exposing more sediment and will be needed to drill deeper ? Just some things i have read about that happens when a well is not used for a long period of time.
 

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