Modifying a rotary mower

[thefisherman]

I have a MF GC1715 and I just picked up a 60" King Kutter rotary mower. Got it pretty cheap @ $500. In very respectable/serviceable condition. Ran it awhile to cut some overgrown pasture grass and small saplings and it works fine. However, it is quite obviously not made for a tractor this size. I had to open the stabilizers all the way up to get the lift arms attached, and can only get it about 2" off the ground due to lifting range. Further, the flex link won't really work with my tractor. Again, machine not big enough.

I had a hard enough time getting this machine that I don't really want to sell it to buy something smaller unless I have to. I think I can just modify it but want to check.

I'd like to move the A-frame risers to the inside of that bottom mount bracket to make them narrower, drill holes lower on them so I have a lower mount point, and point the lift pins inward instead of out.

Since it would be narrower I'd remove the flexible top link point and trim the spacer sleeve in there with an angle grinder so the top mount point can get closer together. To give it flex I would replace the braces from the top link to the back with chains.

This seem acceptable? I've already got everything on hand.

 

[MESSMAKER]

I think it will work fine. I did something on an older mower a few tears ago. The only problem was that I lost the fine adjustment in the top link but it was not a big deal.

 

[zzvyb6]

Looks to me like it was never set-up correctly in the first place. The rearward verticals ought to be vertical (same side of risers). An impact and the right sockets ought to fix this in just a few minutes. Don't use a solid top link unless it has a swinging tensioner. Also watch out for potential drawbar contact with the PTO shaft.

 

[Cougsfan]

Your plan sounds reasonable. The existing pieces can be modified to make things right. I think zz is right about the top link. You might consider installing a chain for a top link, or maybe just use no top link at all while mowing and just attach one when you need to lift the rear off the ground.

 

[thefisherman]

Looks to me like it was never set-up correctly in the first place. The rearward verticals ought to be vertical (same side of risers). An impact and the right sockets ought to fix this in just a few minutes. Don't use a solid top link unless it has a swinging tensioner. Also watch out for potential drawbar contact with the PTO shaft.

Forgive me since I'm kind of new... But can you elaborate a bit on "the rearward verticals ought to be vertical (same side of risers)". It's not clicking for me.

 

[redman135]

Shfting the pins like you say should work, but make sure the tractor end of the top link does not foul the tractor and get bent with the extra lift height.

 

[cglaser104]

There's a few ways to go about this.

1) shorten the A arms at the bottom where they connect to the mower as well as the trail support arms. This maintains the geometry of the mower design. Sort of a since the tractor isn't tall, make the mower short idea.

2) lower the lift arm pins. What this effectively does is cause your lift to operate in a circular pattern as your widening the gap relative to space from lift arms to toplink. Tractor might be 15" but the cutter would be maybe 20". This means when you lift the mower the tail of the mower will lift higher than the front of the mower due to this new geometry.

3) add a hydraulic toplink to draw in for travel.

For the 5' I rebuilt I did a combination of #1 & #3

 

[thefisherman]

Shfting the pins like you say should work, but make sure the tractor end of the top link does not foul the tractor and get bent with the extra lift height.

Checked that bit, the top link can go to about 15 degrees from vertical without hitting anything. Thanks for the heads up!

There's a few ways to go about this.

1) shorten the A arms at the bottom where they connect to the mower as well as the trail support arms. This maintains the geometry of the mower design. Sort of a since the tractor isn't tall, make the mower short idea.

2) lower the lift arm pins. What this effectively does is cause your lift to operate in a circular pattern as your widening the gap relative to space from lift arms to toplink. Tractor might be 15" but the cutter would be maybe 20". This means when you lift the mower the tail of the mower will lift higher than the front of the mower due to this new geometry.

3) add a hydraulic toplink to draw in for travel.

For the 5' I rebuilt I did a combination of #1 & #3

Won't be adding a hydraulic top link, no remote hydros at this time and it's not in the budget. Sure would be nice though.

 

[zzvyb6]

I have a MF GC1715 and I just picked up a 60" King Kutter rotary mower. Got it pretty cheap @ $500. In very respectable/serviceable condition. Ran it awhile to cut some overgrown pasture grass and small saplings and it works fine. However, it is quite obviously not made for a tractor this size. I had to open the stabilizers all the way up to get the lift arms attached, and can only get it about 2" off the ground due to lifting range. Further, the flex link won't really work with my tractor. Again, machine not big enough.

I had a hard enough time getting this machine that I don't really want to sell it to buy something smaller unless I have to. I think I can just modify it but want to check.

I'd like to move the A-frame risers to the inside of that bottom mount bracket to make them narrower, drill holes lower on them so I have a lower mount point, and point the lift pins inward instead of out.

Since it would be narrower I'd remove the flexible top link point and trim the spacer sleeve in there with an angle grinder so the top mount point can get closer together. To give it flex I would replace the braces from the top link to the back with chains.

This seem acceptable? I've already got everything on hand.

Mover the lower ends of these braces to the inside of the deck fittings.

 

[mwb]

Can you reinstall the lower pins so they point inwards? That combined with relocating the pin holes lower might be the simplest fix (other than messing up the geometry slightly).

I would cut the verticals shorter, drill new holes to mount the verticals to the deck, and then install the lower lift pins pointing inwards. Geometry is kept and the width of your lift arms will be significantly narrower.

 

[Midniteoyl]

Can we get a better look at the top link connection? Looking at the pic from the rear, it doesn't look right.

 

[thefisherman]

Can we get a better look at the top link connection? Looking at the pic from the rear, it doesn't look right.

Here you go.

 

[Midniteoyl]

Here you go.

Oh, your link wasn't hooked. LOL..

 

[Midniteoyl]

Can't edit..

I assume that when you do hook up the top link, that you connect to the holes at the end of the u, and that u is at about a 40-45 down angle going toward the tractor, correct?

 

[thefisherman]

Can you reinstall the lower pins so they point inwards? That combined with relocating the pin holes lower might be the simplest fix (other than messing up the geometry slightly).

I would cut the verticals shorter, drill new holes to mount the verticals to the deck, and then install the lower lift pins pointing inwards. Geometry is kept and the width of your lift arms will be significantly narrower.

Yes I planned on reversing the pin, mentioned in the op. I'm also leaning toward the cutting now though after a few comments suggesting it.

Can't edit..

I assume that when you do hook up the top link, that you connect to the holes at the end of the u, and that u is at about a 40-45 down angle going toward the tractor, correct?

For mowing, yes. But I have to shorten the link as short as it will go and still can't lift the back off the ground. So I switch to the solid link at the top for transport. Still only get an inch or two off the ground. Which is why I was going to lower the pins, so I can get more lift. Based on some other comments I'm going to just do some trimming of the entire a-frame and support straps so the geometry stays the same and I can get more lift.

 

[TractorGuy]

Mower looks like it was set up for a tall cat 2 ag tractor. You might need to reconfigure the whole 3 point mount to cat 1 specs. The lift pins need to be mounted lower which will throw the top link connection off.

 

[pmsmechanic]

I would be tempted to just remove the steel "A" part that is bolted to the deck at each three point hitch pin. Then bolt the top part where the front bolt of the 2 "A" parts is bolted on. Then modify the braces to the rear to suit the new setup. That would lower your lifting points enough to get the deck resonably off the ground.

 

[cglaser104]

If you ever plan to add a quick hitch of any sort you'll need at least 4" of clearance from the deck to the pins...maybe more depending on the unit

 

[thefisherman]

Mower looks like it was set up for a tall cat 2 ag tractor. You might need to reconfigure the whole 3 point mount to cat 1 specs. The lift pins need to be mounted lower which will throw the top link connection off.

I'm at least the third owner, so I don't know what the first owner had, but the guy I bought it from had a JD 1025 and said he used it as it was, and was selling since he got rid of the tractor. I'm a cheapskate so I definitely don't mind an hour or two with the grinder and drill instead of forking over $1300+ for something new that's made for cat 1.

Several folks have suggested just trimming the whole a-frame down, I'll be doing that and rearranging things a bit to make it work. I'll post pics when I'm done and confident it won't kill me.

 

[slckeys]

I don't know how to point it out in the picture what might work?... so I'll do my best to describe my thought...

Is there any way you can swap where the lift pins are currently with the bolts directly below them, then take those bolts and place them where the lift pins are now? Basically switch locations. That'll definitely give you more lifting height with no cutting or grinding. I know my lift pins are low like that. Or am I way off on that idea?