2020 load control bushing

[DogT]

Trying to replace the washer and o-ring. Looking at the picture vs the book, I'm not sure what's going on here. I think item 5 in the picture is 30 (retainer?) in the tech manual page 30-9 fig 11. 4 is 22 (load shaft), 3 is 2 (retaining ring), 2 is 3 (retaining bushing) and 1 is 6 (load control shaft bushing). Somehow this seems to be a duke mixture of the early and late models. It just isn't making any sense to me. But does that item 1 in the picture come out? And how do I get it out? According to the book picture the washer and o-ring install on the outside of the load control shaft bushing. But looking at mine the retaining bushing (2 in my picture) just slides back and forth on the control shaft and there's maybe 1/4" play there and I see no place to put the washer and o-ring. Or do they go on the inside of that item 1 in my picture which would mean getting it out somehow.

How confused am I here?

 

[beenthere]

Maybe this schematic will help..

 

[enginespirit]

I understand you want to change number 5 and 6 from schematyc . You cann't change the bushing and o- ring before remove the shaft.

 

[DogT]

Yes, beenthere, that's the picture I'm looking at in my tech manual. spirit, I want to change 4 and 5. But where do they go? What happens when I remove the shaft, all the hyd oil pours out unless I drain it? I still don't see where the items 4 and 5 go on my picture in the first post. It looks like it should be on the visible end of #1 in my picture, but there's no place to put it. And also how do I get the very stiff clip off?

Someone told me in a previous thread I started about this leak that I could change the seals by just taking off the lift and draft links like I've done. But I also have the incorrect part for item 4, I must have sent the wrong number.

In my tech manual there's a picture of the 'load control shaft bushing' showing the sealing ring groove and the o-ring, but I can't see anything like that on my tractor. It shows how to collapse the sealing ring to install it in the bushing. Maybe I should take off the other side and look at that?

Is this bushing installed in the bottom of the trans housing? Is that item 1 in my picture. I should have numbered them just like the book.

Actually the manual says to 'Remove the rockshaft assembly and left-hand rear axle housing'. I'll put up with the leak if I have to do that.

Thanks for any help.

 

[Tx Jim]

Parts keys 4 & 5 fit inside a groove in bushing(key 6) that isn't visible until L/D shaft has been removed or at least slid in to trans case far enough to reveal the o-ring & seal.

 

[DogT]

The bushing (key 6) is installed in the bottom of the transmission case, Which would be item 1 on my picture? The o-ring goes on the inside of the groove and the seal on the outside?

Will I have to drain the trans or will I be able to just slide the shaft over far enough to get at the seal and ring without a lot of fluid running out? I can drain it if I have to, but then I would change both sides while it's drained.

The seal ring I got part T22095 and it seems to be a fairly hard plastic, but they say to warm in in hot water to form it into the grove. We'll see. Not sure how I'm going to warm it in the barn. Maybe a heat gun? Be difficult to get hot water there.

Thanks.

 

[Tx Jim]

T22095 can be installed without warming utilizing needle nose pliers but warming makes installing much easier. Yes shaft can be alternately slide into trans case far enough to expose groove in bushing on each side so seals can be R&R

 

[DogT]

Thanks, I'll take off the other side draft links and see what happens. Might as well do both sides while I've got it off. I'll report back later.

 

[DogT]

OK, I got the seals and o-rings in this morning. Took about an hour and a half. But, there was no way not to drain the oil at least that would work for me. Maybe it's the early style rod because once you push it back in far enough to get the old seals out and new ones in, the oil just pours out. So it drained about 5 gallons and luckily I was ready for it. It was a bit of a bear getting the rod back in because of course the thick part went out of the bushing and dropped down. I ended up holding it up with a small screwdriver to get it back in. The heat gun worked I guess.

The seals don't look like much of a seal to me, but we'll see. It looks like the seal sits over the o-ring and I don't know what keeps the oil from just seeping around it and the rod. I put a couple pieces of newspaper under each side to see how it's going to work. It's not like there's a seal right on the rod itself. Strange.

Thanks for the help.

 

[Tx Jim]

Congratulations on your repair.
Sorry but I forgot about the L/D shaft that had the smaller diameter ends when I stated one could change seals by sliding shaft in far enough to access the seals. JD utilized with success similar type seals & o-rings from '65-'92 on their utility tractor L/D shafts.

 

[DogT]

Don't know why they didn't use a regular seal with the lip and spring for this L/D bushing. Like the P/S shaft and the PTO shafts. Noticed my rear pto seal has a seep, but not sure what's involved with that. It doesn't drip but just oil seepage below the pto shaft. It probably wears off before it can drip. I hope this is the end of major oil leaks in this old tractor for the duration. Looks like I should be ready for winter anyhow.

Actually the old seals didn't look that bad and they were not brittle like some were. The left side seal was probably worn and it leaked.

Boy, those draft links are heavy. Also that clip (my #3, book item 2) was not spring steel, it just bent, so I just bent it back on. Probably should have gotten new ones. It doesn't do much anyhow once that retainer and pin go on the end.

 

[DogT]

3 days now since the repair and not a drip on the paper under the seals. Must be working. There was some dirt under the RH o-ring when I got it out, but that seal didn't leak, much.

 

[Tx Jim]

Something I forgot to state is remove with the aid of installing shim washers all the side motion from shaft. Shaft sliding from side to side when utilizing 3 pt hitch accelerates seal failure.

 

[DogT]

That must be what the book means by thrust washers. I didn't get any of those. I'll take a look at the shaft play and see if I can find an appropriate washer.

 

[Tx Jim]

Here's the spec's & part number for thrust washer listed in 2020 PC for shimming L/D shaft.

 

[DogT]

Thanks.

 

[PeteN]

OK, I got the seals and o-rings in this morning. Took about an hour and a half. But, there was no way not to drain the oil at least that would work for me. Maybe it's the early style rod because once you push it back in far enough to get the old seals out and new ones in, the oil just pours out. So it drained about 5 gallons and luckily I was ready for it. It was a bit of a bear getting the rod back in because of course the thick part went out of the bushing and dropped down. I ended up holding it up with a small screwdriver to get it back in. The heat gun worked I guess.

The seals don't look like much of a seal to me, but we'll see. It looks like the seal sits over the o-ring and I don't know what keeps the oil from just seeping around it and the rod. I put a couple pieces of newspaper under each side to see how it's going to work. It's not like there's a seal right on the rod itself. Strange.

Thanks for the help.

I'm also trying to replace the seals. I've got the rockshaft lowered but there still seems to be quite a bit of pressure on the load control shaft since when I slide it in trans housing it gets forced against the pressed in bushing. Is there something else I need to do to relieve the pressure on the load control shaft inside the trans housing? I'm wondering what relaxes the load control arm from contacting the load control shaft so that the shaft can be removed.

 

[Tx Jim]

Welcome to TBN
Load control lever under seat needs to be set in position "D".

 

[PeteN]

Welcome to TBN
Load control lever under seat needs to be set in position "D".

I did put it in "D" but there still appears to be a lot of side load on the load control shaft. I noticed an adjuster screw on the load control arm when I look into the oil fill hole. Do I need to do anything with that? I was hoping I did not have to remove the entire rockshaft assembly to replace the load control shaft since it sounded like others were able to remove the seals without that disassembly. Thanks.

 

[Tx Jim]

Do you have 3pt control lever located forward to lower 3pt hitch? One doesn't need to R&R rockshaft housing to R&R L/D shaft seals or normally relocate L/D control adjusting screw.