Ford 1700 3 pt lift problem

[JC-jetro]

Where did you get the pump rebuild kit?

Part Kit # for the pump seal is SBA340490157.

Messicks Does not have it.

New Holland #SBA340490157 KIT

KIT

www.messicks.com

Found it at NH for $51 and I think that's pretty good. If you do order it make sure to give them serial # and stuff so they would cross check if they need.

New Holland Seal Kit Part # SBA340490157

KIT

www.newhollandrochester.com

 

[Marinemammal]

I removed the bolt from the rear banjo fitting of the discharge side and started the tractor. I got less than a quart in a minute, which is probably not enough to do any good. Since I have just cleaned the screen and changed the oil, I doubt that is the problem. If it was a suction side problem, wouldn't the pump would be howling?

But why can I see 1500 psi on the line that goes between the blocks?

 

[JC-jetro]

I removed the bolt from the rear banjo fitting of the discharge side and started the tractor. I got less than a quart in a minute, which is probably not enough to do any good. Since I have just cleaned the screen and changed the oil, I doubt that is the problem. If it was a suction side problem, wouldn't the pump would be howling?

No it is not enough, and again that flow against the spring in the relief might be even less. It seems, it's all pointing toward a bad pump. The pump would cavitate if the suction tube is plug or restricted. Running the pump like that would heat it up which is not good. That pump does have a by-pass internally that help to lubricate the journals. Like i said before that pump can be disassembled without destroying anything including the seals. You have done just about everything. If I were you, I would open it up and take a look inside. It might be the shaft seal is bad. O-rings will be okay, it does have two seals on the bushing with a nylon backer. May be you can try the seals on your old pump and then again you will need the shaft seal that is a double lipped with a spring in. That might be easier to source. if nothing else out of strong curiosity I would disassemble the pump.

 

[Marinemammal]

I agree. I will remove the pump.

But why do I see 1500 psi on the line that goes to feed the block for the loader and steering? I don't have the right fittings to put the gauge on that link and still be able to try to operate the loader. But if I could, I would expect that the pressure would drop to nothing when I try to raise the loader.

 

[JC-jetro]

I agree. I will remove the pump.

But why do I see 1500 psi on the line that goes to feed the block for the loader and steering? I don't have the right fittings to put the gauge on that link and still be able to try to operate the loader. But if I could, I would expect that the pressure would drop to nothing when I try to raise the loader.

Ok Sounds good. The pump should put out about 5 gpm @ 2100 psi, so yo are way below that.

It is Hard to say, but you can have trapped oil in cylinder and due to ambient temp or weight of tractor loader registering a high pressure but at no flow. That is always a possibility. Same way ,you can have a heavy load up on 3-point and you turn the tractor off and you will still register a high psi due to moment arm and the weight hanging on the back pushing the ram rod against the piston. Now , in that fix you can stand at equipment hanging from the back like brush hog and jump up and down you see the pressure goes up and down due to your weight. Everything is interconnected.

 

[Marinemammal]

I pulled the pump. It was a harder job than I remember. There's not much clearance around the radiator hose and shroud. 2 bolts and 2 nuts. I had to take off the upper flange to get it out. It came out the other side. I'm not going to take it apart until I have some communication with Legacy Hydraulics where I got it--tomorrow hopefully.

I can say this. The pump I just removed turns by hand with a little bumpiness. The old pump turns smoother. Not sure what this means, but I'm inclined to believe there will be something obvious wrong inside the newer pump.

 

[JC-jetro]

I pulled the pump. It was a harder job than I remember. There's not much clearance around the radiator hose and shroud. 2 bolts and 2 nuts. I had to take off the upper flange to get it out. It came out the other side. I'm not going to take it apart until I have some communication with Legacy Hydraulics where I got it--tomorrow hopefully.

I can say this. The pump I just removed turns by hand with a little bumpiness. The old pump turns smoother. Not sure what this means, but I'm inclined to believe there will be something obvious wrong inside the newer pump.

Ok.Make sure not to lose o-rings that go with the banjo fitting. Impeller type pump either end suction or inline both turn very easily by hand. Positive displacement gear type usually are harder to turn, when you try to turn it by hand it kind of feel like a stepping motor. reason is as the gear mesh together there is a bit of resistance. Gear type really need a very close tolerance almost touching the pump case and what make them tight is a film of oil and that's along with geometry of how they carry the oil between the gear and the case is where it can develop and strong flow against a spring in the relief to make pressure. It is very durable and simple design it is susceptible to quick damage if they run dry or have fealty oil in the system. On bumpiness, generally is not a good sign but again you are running the pump a bit dry but by hand turning you will never damage it. if you squirt a bit of oil on the intake side it should feel more smooth. My guess is the seal might have been damage and you have some foreign material along with some scratches on the gear or the case. I guess will know for sure when you do a postmortem on it.

 

[Marinemammal]

I contacted New Holland to see what was included in the kit and found out the kit is no longer available, but a different kit with a different part number is available for $159. Seems a little steep for o-rings and seals.

New Holland Seal Kit Part # SBA340490172

KIT, SEALS

www.newhollandrochester.com

 

[JC-jetro]

yes , it is too dang steep. I sent you a link on thread #51. Did you check that out? it appeared they had it in stock. The work is not difficult and that's why i suggested to open it up see if the seal is usable. I kept my old seal in a plastic bag and oil in last 15 years for a rainy day as it did look good. By the way the seal in your link did have the shaft seal where on mine it did not. It is always a pain with older equipment. I kick myself why I did not buy spare piston seal and pump seal when I could as they were really cheap..... water under bridge.

 

[Marinemammal]

Yes. That one is no longer available. I want to talk to Legacy Hydraulics (who I purchased it from) before taking it apart in case of some warrantee issue. $500 for 2 years and 60 hours of service is not right.