Ideas for repairing radiator? REPAIRED!

[Doc G]

Noticed a slow antifreeze leak and pulled the radiator. (Kubota L3200.) The leak is where a mounting stud protrudes from the bottom tank. All plastic. It's hard to see in the pic but the arrow shows where.

It has evidently been a problem before, because -- I discovered -- the previous owner used two-part clear epoxy to fix the same problem. I was able to chisel it off and clean up with a wire brush.

Any suggestions for what to do? Obviously brittle 2-part epoxies are not the long-term answer, although it lasted surprisingly long.

Thanks much.

 

[WranglerX]

Depends on the two part epoxy.... Try JB Weld.... IT will even seal fuel tanks, should be good with water....

 

[4570Man]

I’ve tried it multiple times on different radiators and it’s never worked. It’s already been tried on your radiator and didn’t work. I’d move on to different solutions.

 

[oosik]

A permanent repair might be sonic welding. I have no idea where you would go to find this type of equipment. Maybe start by talking to your tractor dealer.

 

[4570Man]

You can buy an aftermarket one for $100-200.

 

[number two]

Check out Rapid-Fix!
They have videos online.!
I've seen guys do some neat stuff with it!
Good Luck

 

[mini14]

Super glue and baking soda

 

[chander]

Super glue and baking soda

Please explain?

 

[Doughknob]

There are two-part epoxies made specifically for plastics. It would depend on what type plastic the radiator is as to how well they work. But I have had good luck with them on most plastics. Repairing every couple years with epoxy is still much cheaper than a new rad, if just dollars is a priority.

Then, if you want a more permanent solution, new one is probably your only choice and that is expensive. So at that point I'd try to 'plastic-weld' it since you have nothing to lose if you screw it up. Plastic-welding is tricky and a hit or miss thing I have found. But if new is the only other option, what the hey - try welding first. One key is to find filler material that is the same composition as the radiator.

 

[jaxs]

You may know this already but same as advice you get on ways to repair this is free advice. Unlike gasoline engines that can overheat to the point of smoking and steaming,shut down,alowed to cool,problem fixed then refilled with coolant and not noticablly suffer,it is highly probable a diesel will be severly damaged or catastropically fail. That being the case a wise diesel owner ALWAYS err's on the side of caution even when it look's like a waste of money to the less informed. My advice is don't gamble on noticing in time to stop before engine overheats next time it leaks, throw that radiator in the trash and spend $99 for a new one.

 

[Doc G]

Thanks for all the suggestions guys!

@Doughknob : Agree. My options are basically: (1) An epoxy that is nylon-compatible, (2) plastic welding with nylon filler, and (3) replace. The interweb has some videos of nylon welding that make it look feasible though messy with basically a glorified soldering iron.

@4570Man : I'd buy aftermarket for 1/6 of new any day of the week and twice on Sunday. But that Amazon listing indicates it replaces OEM TC020-16000 for the older L3400 and my tractor's part number is TC420-16000. It looks awfully close -- and the part numbers are close -- but do you know for certain it would fit? I browsed the "Complete Tractor Store" storefront and found no rads explicitly listed for L3200/L3800 series tractors...

[Edit: I also notice that TC620-16000 is the OEM for the L3301/L3901 which are essentially identical to the L3200/L3800 except for emission control. Summary for the L "economy" compact lineup:

L2800/3400 -- TC020-16000
L3200/3800 -- TC420-16000
L3301/3901 -- TC620-16000

Maybe these are all cross compatible in critical dimensions?]



@jaxs : You make a very good point. This is not like fixing the shift knob or even a hydraulic line.

Appreciate the input!

 

[PILOON]

Over time I've had reasonable success using a hot glue gun on some plastics.
I have a couple of fuel containers 'hot glue' repaired. A trailer wheel fairing, even repaired light aircraft fairings.
Often it was 'a nothing to lose' approach that proved to work.
Just determine what the material is and use heat to fuse the repair.

I first learned hot plastic welding years ago when I wanted to have my snow ski bases fixed but held back when I saw the price tag and smelled the aroma of melting PVC.
LOL, I went home and ignited old poly bags and hot dripped the melt onto my skis and carefully trimmed the excess with a sharp knife. OK, color was not a match but the job was done, besides who looked at the bottom of your skis as you zipped down the hill.

Another material that can do plastic repairs is automotive windshield adhesive.
Has lots of desirable properties, flexibility, strong adhesive and fairly heat resistive.
Shucks fairly structural as well.
Problem is only the amount of surface available, edge butting no, but surface patches OK.
One example would be a reservoir where U could apply a patch over a crack or slit.
Also on any crack, always stop drill both ends of that crack to stop growth.

 

[4570Man]

Over time I've had reasonable success using a hot glue gun on some plastics.
I have a couple of fuel containers 'hot glue' repaired. A trailer wheel fairing, even repaired light aircraft fairings.
Often it was 'a nothing to lose' approach that proved to work.
Just determine what the material is and use heat to fuse the repair.

I first learned hot plastic welding years ago when I wanted to have my snow ski bases fixed but held back when I saw the price tag and smelled the aroma of melting PVC.
LOL, I went home and ignited old poly bags and hot dripped the melt onto my skis and carefully trimmed the excess with a sharp knife. OK, color was not a match but the job was done, besides who looked at the bottom of your skis as you zipped down the hill.

Another material that can do plastic repairs is automotive windshield adhesive.
Has lots of desirable properties, flexibility, strong adhesive and fairly heat resistive.
Shucks fairly structural as well.
Problem is only the amount of surface available, edge butting no, but surface patches OK.
One example would be a reservoir where U could apply a patch over a crack or slit.
Also on any crack, always stop drill both ends of that crack to stop growth.

Hot glue might fix cold unpressurized plastic. But it has zero chance of fixing a radiator.

 

[jaxs]

Hot glue might fix cold unpressurized plastic. But it has zero chance of fixing a radiator.

In addition to pressurized,the stud is supporting and undoubtedly undergoing stress plus the cracked surfaces can not be reached for cleaning. Therefore I agree.

 

[PILOON]

In addition to pressurized,the stud is supporting and undoubtedly undergoing stress plus the cracked surfaces can not be reached for cleaning. Therefore I agree.

You'll note that I said:
Problem is only the amount of surface available, edge butting no, but surface patches OK.

 

[Boss 302]

Unfortunately I have been down this road with a break in the same place as yours, I tried ever type of epoxy that I could find and nothing worked. I actually thought it was fixed after using JB Weld and not having an issue for several months until I started to use the tractor hard while cleaning out a barn and it started leaking again. I finally purchased a new radiator, if you actually find a way to repair this I would be very interested in knowing what you came up with.

 

[jaxs]

You'll note that I said:
Problem is only the amount of surface available, edge butting no, but surface patches OK.

Noted

 

[Doc G]

Unfortunately I have been down this road with a break in the same place as yours, I tried ever type of epoxy that I could find and nothing worked. I actually thought it was fixed after using JB Weld and not having an issue for several months until I started to use the tractor hard while cleaning out a barn and it started leaking again. I finally purchased a new radiator, if you actually find a way to repair this I would be very interested in knowing what you came up with.

Thanks for sharing. As @jaxs pointed out, the stud is a structural component too. Even if a patch were able to fix the leak, it also has to be able to withstand the vibration and stress exerted on the stud. That's asking a lot from epoxy.

 

[Doc G]

Update: FYI -- and for people reading this in the future.

Upon close examination of the exploded diagrams, the L2800/3400 series radiators (TC020-16000) are different. One of those would require modification of other parts on an L3200.

On the other hand, there is no discernable difference looking at the L3200/3800 (TC420-16000) and L3301/3901 (TC620-16000) diagrams. Everything appears to be identical -- except the newer model rads sell for half the price, roughly $300.

Still mulling a repair, but it would nice to know for sure if the new rad is backward compatible one generation.

 

[07wingnut]

If it failed once from the stress of holding the radiator in place, it will probably fail again, now, tomorrow, or next year. I would be tempted to remove that nipple alltogether and mcgyver up a steel nipple attached to a round plate the same size as the base shown on the radiator. Drill a few holes in the round plate, use your adhesive of choice on the plate and then use screws to secure the plate to the radiator and apply pressure to the plate/radiator/adhesive interface. If that original nipple wasn't mounted in a rubber grommet, the addition of one into the original hole would help, but then the steel nipple would have to be down sized in diameter.