Welding a hydraulic anchor point

   / Welding a hydraulic anchor point
  • Thread Starter
#41  
Yeh it does look like that weld was just laying on top with little penetration.

You got a real mig or you mean flux core "mig"? If it's real mig 110v, maybe considering switching polarity, tossing in some flux core wire and welding it that way. You'll get more penetration from flux core than mig. Me with my stick welder, 6011 on that, I'd have some uglyass welds (coz I suck at welding) but it would definitely hold.

Like etpm says, practice a little on some spare metal before going to town on this. But with that said, weld that sheeeeit!


I;ve been using flux core wire fer most of my odd jobs however, such as boltering my perforsted but not busted dodge dakota truck frame with angle and 1/8" plate
My Licoln Mig Pak 10 is a wire feed mig with capability of using gas as well.
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   / Welding a hydraulic anchor point
  • Thread Starter
#42  
The design of those mounting ears is, ummm, how do is say this politely. The design of the mounting ears sux. Best to just toss them and start over. There are reasons that cylinders are mounted on doublers with long triangular bases to spread the load over a greater area. Especially the dipper stick and bucket cylinder mounts. I have never seen a dipper stick cylinder mount like this. See pics for reference. Do you have an overall photo of the boom and dipper?

Unfortunately this repair needs more than just welding the original part back on. This also really needs stick welding or high power MIG to get the proper penetration. How soon can you have 230v power? Do you have a 230v generator? Can you borrow or rent one?

But there is still the basic issue of the design of the cylinder mounting ears. These need to be redone to have any hope of surviving. If you manage to get good penetration, i predict the base metal will tear out (again).

View attachment 725815View attachment 725816
Can't view those attachments message says I don't have permission.
 
   / Welding a hydraulic anchor point #43  
Can't view those attachments message says I don't have permission.
How about now?
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   / Welding a hydraulic anchor point #44  
The factory mounting lugs were not the best design. Should have bigger base flares to distribute the forces. Consider making new mounting plates.

The repair welds are too cold and not penetrating into the boom steel. Poor Technique or welder settings.

Could you repair with a 110V welder? Yes, but will take considerable more skill, fabrication, preparation and time than with a bigger welder.

A challenging repair. Good learning project and reason to try and test new skills.
 
   / Welding a hydraulic anchor point #45  
It's a little hard to tell but it looks like most of the weld did not penetrate enough for most of the area where the weld was attempted. A classic symptom of not enough heat, it was just laying on top of the metal. So it peeled away. Where it did stick, since the area was so small, it was subjected to too much load and broke the parent metal.
If you think you have enough skill to re-weld this then my advice is to first practice on some similar thickness metal. Even 10 minutes practice just before you do the real weld will help a lot. But I would do a little more than 10 minutes. Maybe 11 or 12. Or 30. Anyway, aside from practice you should grind away as much of the crappy weld as possible. It stuck so poorly to the large piece it probably isn't stuck very well to the smaller pieces.
After all the crappy original weld is ground away you could consider welding the cylinder mount to a piece of 1/8 thick steel that is considerably larger than the area the mount was welded to. Then this plate could be welded to the large piece. It would need to be welded all around the perimeter. But you would also need to drill a bunch of holes through the plate, about 1/2 inch or so in diameter. Then you need to weld through these holes to the parent metal. These types of welds are called plug welds.
It would probably help a lot to pre-heat the steel before welding. Heating to even 400 degrees will make a big difference when it comes to proper penetration.
Good Luck,
Eric

That's right. I hate to say this, but I'd start over. IMHO, that lug attachment is just too light throughout. I think that you can keep sticking it back on there and it will keep tearing loose. I doubt if it will hold up even if it was perfectly welded.

What it needs is for the lug to be reworked on a bench to make up a lug having a wider thicker base with more area and a lot better support where the ears attach to the base. To get that support, it would help if both lug and base were thicker too.

Then the newly reinforced lug & base piece needs to be welded back into place using using more heat so as to get a weld with more overlap & penetration.
rScotty
 
   / Welding a hydraulic anchor point #46  
Im having a hard time seeing the "whole" picture. Can you take a step back and get a picture of the whole hoe.

In general I agree the mounting tabs are not of the best design....but some small hoes dont generate alot of force and maybe they skimped.

It certainly looks like there is room for improvement....but again, without seeing the "whole" picture, its hard to form a conclusion
 
   / Welding a hydraulic anchor point #47  
Here are a couple pictures from the OP's backhoe he shared on another thread. The broken mounts are the ones for the dipper cylinder.

It's a small backhoe and those cylinder mounts are just fine for this application. Just needs to get properly welded and it will be good to go again.

20211126_092731-jpg.725666
screenshot-2021-11-28-at-11-28-28-image-jpg-jpeg-image-783-%C3%97-587-pixels-png.725665
 
   / Welding a hydraulic anchor point #48  
A challenging repair. Good learning project and reason to try and test new skills.
Yep. A great project for a cold day in a warm shop. I tend to overbuild. I'd enjoy fixing that mess. :)
 
   / Welding a hydraulic anchor point #49  
Im having a hard time seeing the "whole" picture. Can you take a step back and get a picture of the whole hoe.

In general I agree the mounting tabs are not of the best design....but some small hoes dont generate alot of force and maybe they skimped.

It certainly looks like there is room for improvement....but again, without seeing the "whole" picture, its hard to form a conclusion
Common mistake. People tend to think they gotta get a closeup. With digital technology zoom accomplishes that. A broader pic from a good angle. Then the viewer can zoom in/out until they see whatever they are trying to see.
 
   / Welding a hydraulic anchor point #50  
Here are a couple pictures from the OP's backhoe he shared on another thread. The broken mounts are the ones for the dipper cylinder.

It's a small backhoe and those cylinder mounts are just fine for this application. Just needs to get properly welded and it will be good to go again.

20211126_092731-jpg.725666
screenshot-2021-11-28-at-11-28-28-image-jpg-jpeg-image-783-%C3%97-587-pixels-png.725665
Thanks Pedro. That's what we needed. I agree the tabs could be properly welded and they would stay. With that said, it would also be easy to brace them with pie shaped pieces and triple the strength pretty quick.
 

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