Rim guard or not? Why a ballast box instead of boxblade?

[Jstpssng]

Forget liquid ballast, bolt on cast iron wheel weights.

I did, and still plan to load them when I get new tires.

 

[beenthere]

I agree, but I also agree with the OP regarding a ballast box. I have never understood why attach a ballast box instead of a useful implement. I use an implement and filled tires for ballast.

Each to their own, but a ballast box for me has less space allowing maneuvering and also has room for hauling chains, clevises, some tools, etc.
Being on a quick hitch, can be dropped quickly to exchange out for a set of forks, back blade, carry-all, chipper, rotary mower, turbo saw, and the list goes on and on.
Non of these attachments I would want hanging on my 3 ph just for a bit of weight.

But some users don't move about in the woods or in and out of buildings to get their work done.

 

[WilliamBos]

I did, and still plan to load them when I get new tires.

Make sure you check the axle ratings of your tractor, you dont want to overload it.

 

[Golden Rocket]

I added liquid (W/S/W Fluid -40C rated) this past year as I had encountered a few rather tippy situations even though I had a Flail mower on the 3 pt. The only issue I have with the added weight is yes, if I am operating on softer soil (pretty hard to avoid this year due to rain) it does tend to mark up but that just means I shouldn't be there yet anyway, wait for it to dry or freeze. This year I also built myself a heavy hitch inspired weight bar and hitch configuration. This is so advantageous in the spring and winter (flail is stored) for the tighter turning conditions I typically encounter around the wood yard area. Once I am into the mowing season, on goes the flail and stays there until pretty much snow season. I also run cast weights on the wheels - my total weight is approx 3600 lbs - it is less of a bothersome sum because of the increased stability for the ton of grapple work I do (not just moving brush - a ton of pulling out brush and root as well)
From my personal experience, there can be no such thing as too much weight, but you can all too easily have insufficient ballast and find yourself in a bad spot. Cheers

 

[LouNY]

1200# of cast iron and no liquid in my tires, I am considering a bit more but she is pretty stable as it is.
Any one that wants it is welcome to load their tires, mine are not and will not be.
Over the years I have had flats with filled tires no more for me.

 

[MossyDell]

I have a Heavy Hitch with about 250lbs of suitcase weights, so ~300lbs total, and since it functions as a hitch I guess it's a degree more functional than a ballast box. To remove it I can easily lift each suitcase weight off and then the hitch itself, so that's handy. The HH wasn't cheap, but it does seem to be made very well, and as you mentioned it's compact - good counterweight and I almost forget it's back there.

I recently got a heavy duty Heavy Hitch stand for my hitch. Unless you are able to unload the weights as Pleease suggests, when removed the loaded hitch is unsteady even with weights on inner and outer racks. I have grandkids around. And my homemade 2x4 stand was inadequate.

It seems like yesterday I was taking off and putting on 70 lb weights. Now my 41 lb weights are a trial. Well, I can take them off and put them on fine but the next day I'm likely to be in pain. I've about worn out my back.

One advantage I can see with a weight box is greater stability when it's off the tractor. Some, I've noticed taper at the bottom, however. Probably still less likely to fall over than a Heavy Hitch, but I'd be cautious.

 

[WilliamBos]

1200# of cast iron and no liquid in my tires, I am considering a bit more but she is pretty stable as it is.
Any one that wants it is welcome to load their tires, mine are not and will not be.
Over the years I have had flats with filled tires no more for me.

No weight here, nor are tires loaded. The 1635 seems to do the job nicely, especially on new R1 Tires.

 

[jyoutz]

Make sure you check the axle ratings of your tractor, you dont want to overload it.

Keep in mind that liquid weight mostly is supported by the ground and not the axle. That’s what is different about loaded tires.

 

[jyoutz]

No weight here, nor are tires loaded. The 1635 seems to do the job nicely, especially on new R1 Tires.

But you cannot safely lift the full weight capacity of your FEL without counterweight.

 

[Jstpssng]

I've got 1,500lbs of liquid weight at .15 cents per pound. $220.

What does an iron wheel weight cost per pound? Around here it's $1 per pound. So 1,500lb of cast iron wheel weights would have cost me $1,500.

That's about what I paid from my Kubota dealer and I looked a long time for wheel weights. If I had to do it over again I would go to EA and buy 1000 lbs... more than I need but I doubt I would have problems selling the excess. I also would not buy a bolt kit... all that it consisted of was some long, overpriced carriage bolts and I only used 1/2 of them.

Edit; I just checked EA's website and weights are up over 1400$ for 1035lbs.

Last summer I had my bush hog on and had a couple loads of gravel delivered. I had some minor health issues which prevented me from switching implements so tried to level it as it was. As I went up on the pile it bashed the mower onto the ground... I still haven't checked to see if I damaged it. I'll stick with my winch for weight.