Box Scraper Changing angle to use rippers only

[hOOPSNAKE]

Hi all,

I have just purchased a new box blade. so far, it’s a great unit but I can’t get the angle right so I can use the rippers only.
I have a hydraulic top link that’s the correct size for the tractor (same length as factory top link) but even with it fully retracted I cannot get the box to tilt forward enough to rip only. I can adjust the rippers down so they rip but I don’t want to have to manually raise and lower them all the time (adjustment holes). I want to just have them set on hole 2 from the top, so they’re out of the way when the box is level and dragging dirt forward but able to be angled when needed to rip.

The lower links have turnbuckles attached to the lifting arms. If I unscrew the turnbuckles (lengthening them) will this create more of an angle, pushing the rippers further out the back?

Please excuse my basic question but I am only a new tractor owner and I don’t want to mess up anything without knowing what I’m doing.

Thanks for reading.

 

[seville009]

Off hand I'd say try a shorter top link; not sure how short your existing one retracts to.

you can also lengthen the lower links as you describe. Won't hurt anything.

 

[workinonit]

Moving the stabilizer link adjustments won't have any effect on the angle of the blade. I have 2 box blades and I don't think I can do what you are asking with either of them. IU can't even visualize tilting a BB forward enough the engage the tines. As a matter of fact, the more you tilt forward the more you tilt the tines back and take them out of the ground. Just get off and raise and lower the tines.

 

[Woodstock Walt]

It sounds like you would need either a longer set of lower links or a shorter top link to achieve the geometry you're looking for. Box blades do work really well for ripping in that application, so if you can setup your 3 pt. hitch appropriately it'll really help you get the most out of your box blade.

 

[workinonit]

"Box blades do work really well for ripping in that application, so if you can setup your 3 pt. hitch appropriately it'll really help you get the most out of your box blade"

I don't understand how changing the angle on a blade will engage the tines if they are in the middle position. On both of mine, in the middle position the tines are quite a bit above the lower edge of the box which keeps them from engaging in the ground. I use that setting if I'm trying the level ground that has roots and debris. The tines will act as a rake but they won't rip like they do when they are lowered to the bottom setting.

 

[Woodstock Walt]

Well, here's a video that I think demonstrates what the op is looking to do. The title may sound somewhat belittling, but that's not my intended point at all. Just watch the angles this guy is able to achieve with his box blade. It allows him to use his ripper teeth while they're still on the higher setting by steeply angling the box blade forwards. Later, he reverses the angle to raise the teeth and still use the blade.

I just remember watching this video a while ago, it kind of opened my eyes to the actual capability of a box blade with a proper 3 pt. setup.

Again, just a thought. I may be off the mark on what the op is looking to accomplish.

 

[workinonit]

That guy is using that blade in perfectly prepared soil with nothing that needs to be ripped. You get those angles and hook a good root with that small tractor and something is gonna break. Probably won't be anything on the blade. The other thing is the soil has to be loose enough for the sides of the box to go down below the surface. That won't happen in the places I use it.

 

[oldnslo]

I believe some box blades have hydraulic cylinder to raise and lower rippers which would provide function OP is asking for.
I agree adjusting top link does not work on box with fixed ripper and tilting box blade screws up angle of attack and tendency for ripper shank to get pulled into the ground vs skate on top.

 

[rScotty]

Hi all,

I have just purchased a new box blade. so far, it’s a great unit but I can’t get the angle right so I can use the rippers only.
I have a hydraulic top link that’s the correct size for the tractor (same length as factory top link) but even with it fully retracted I cannot get the box to tilt forward enough to rip only. I can adjust the rippers down so they rip but I don’t want to have to manually raise and lower them all the time (adjustment holes). I want to just have them set on hole 2 from the top, so they’re out of the way when the box is level and dragging dirt forward but able to be angled when needed to rip.

The lower links have turnbuckles attached to the lifting arms. If I unscrew the turnbuckles (lengthening them) will this create more of an angle, pushing the rippers further out the back?

Please excuse my basic question but I am only a new tractor owner and I don’t want to mess up anything without knowing what I’m doing.

Thanks for reading.

I don't think you will mess up anything trying to do that with a basic box blade, because shortening the top link that much disengages the rippers from the ground. But I also don't think that you will get the results you are looking for.

The problem is the basic box blade with manual rippers is a compromise tool, and the compromise is that it is made to be used with a lot of manual adjustment by the operator.

There are more specialized box blades made that do exactly what you want - manual or hydraulically - and they only cost several times as much as a basic box blade. They work by either rotating the tines or raising/lowering them. Bush hog makes both styles...plus a nice basic one.

 

[ericm979]

Hi all,

I have just purchased a new box blade. so far, it’s a great unit but I can’t get the angle right so I can use the rippers only.
I have a hydraulic top link that’s the correct size for the tractor (same length as factory top link) but even with it fully retracted I cannot get the box to tilt forward enough to rip only. I can adjust the rippers down so they rip but I don’t want to have to manually raise and lower them all the time (adjustment holes). I want to just have them set on hole 2 from the top, so they’re out of the way when the box is level and dragging dirt forward but able to be angled when needed to rip.

That's not how it works.

You adjust the box blade angle so it takes the cut you want in the dirt you are working with. When you need the rippers you lower them. Otherwise you raise them. Some companies make box blades with either manually or hydraulically operated ganged together rippers, so it's easier to raise and lower them as needed. My manual one was only a few hundred $$ more than their regular individual ripper model and the hydraulic version a few hundred more than that. But you already have what you have and unless you do a LOT of box blading it would not be worth getting a new one.

If I remember right lowering the back of the BB makes it dig in less aggressively and raising it makes it dig in more. But I might have that backwards. It's counter intuitive. You can figure it out for yourself pretty quick since you have a hydraulic top link