Mattock Handles. Why?

[N80]

Why are mattocks not fixed on their handles? In other words, why aren't they fitted like axe handles, pick handles and sledge hammer handles? The old mattock I have has two nails in the handle under the head to keep it from slipping down. Been that way since I was a child.

I'm asking because I recently got a mattock head from my father-in-law's garage. It is less than half the size of a normal mattock which is really cool. It has some surface rust but is otherwise in great shape. I'm going to clean it up and make a handle for it. I have a lathe.

The opening for the handle is round but slightly cone shaped like a normal mattock so that the handle is installed from the top and is supposed to snug down on the handle which is also slightly cone shaped.

I'm just wondering if I should install the handle that way or should I consider wedging it like an axe handle.

Any advice appreciated.

 

[Jstpssng]

Think about the way that you are working it; driving it hard into a root or hard soil. If attached like an axe head it will be prone to coming off. The normal mattock handle is designed so that the more it's worked, the farther it will drive the head onto the handle.

 

[marhar]

Why are mattocks not fixed on their handles? In other words, why aren't they fitted like axe handles, pick handles and sledge hammer handles? The old mattock I have has two nails in the handle under the head to keep it from slipping down. Been that way since I was a child.

I'm asking because I recently got a mattock head from my father-in-law's garage. It is less than half the size of a normal mattock which is really cool. It has some surface rust but is otherwise in great shape. I'm going to clean it up and make a handle for it. I have a lathe.

The opening for the handle is round but slightly cone shaped like a normal mattock so that the handle is installed from the top and is supposed to snug down on the handle which is also slightly cone shaped.

I'm just wondering if I should install the handle that way or should I consider wedging it like an axe handle.

Any advice appreciated.

The handle is not fixed so the head can be taken off the mattock for sharpened. The head curves inward. Back in the day when large mill grinding stones were used for sharpening the head the handle would be in the way. Today most folks use a flat file or a angle girder to sharpen a mattock but the design of the mattock has not changed.

 

[ROUSTABOUT]

Plus a lot of picks and mattocks were packed on pack mules and took up less space when broken down. Military still breaks them down. Shovel axe and pick mattocks. Mattocks head is removed to save space.

 

[N80]

Great info. Thanks guys.

But I have to say, it isn't very practical from a use standpoint. I've used them where the head slid down the handle at the top of the upstroke.

I have a newer one where the design is the same but there is a rubber collar around the top of the handle that fits into the head and holds the head in place. It works pretty well

With this little one I wonder if putting a wedge in the top of the handle would work. I don't see how it could hurt.

 

[Jstpssng]

A tar paper nail works well to keep the head from sliding down. I agree though, it's a bit painful when the thing does slip.

 

[sea2summit]

Great info. Thanks guys.

But I have to say, it isn't very practical from a use standpoint. I've used them where the head slid down the handle at the top of the upstroke.

I have a newer one where the design is the same but there is a rubber collar around the top of the handle that fits into the head and holds the head in place. It works pretty well

With this little one I wonder if putting a wedge in the top of the handle would work. I don't see how it could hurt.

If it’s slipping down at the top of the stroke you’re lifting it up wasting energy not swinging and building energy.

 

[N80]

If it’s slipping down at the top of the stroke you’re lifting it up wasting energy not swinging and building energy.

You should not have to maintain a constant powered arch to keep the head of a tool from sliding down. THAT would be a waste of energy. The point being, it is not all that typical to be swinging a mattock from all the way over the shoulder into the ground. That's ideal, and probably most effective....but hardly realistic. At least not in my use. Rarely is a situation that free and clear in my experience.

 

[N80]

Here is a picture of the head. As you can see it is about 12" long. I'm assuming this is a little mattock and not some sort of wood working tool. The edges are not sharp like an adze or something like that. I will probably turn an 18" handle so it can be used with one or two hands. I think it will be handy in the truck tool box or my wife may be able to use it in the garden.

I do not have any hickory but I do have several freshly cut ash logs waiting to be cut on the saw mill. I think ash would work okay. I'll cut out a rough blank but I'm not sure how long the blank will need to dry before I put it on the lathe?

 

[sea2summit]

You should not have to maintain a constant powered arch to keep the head of a tool from sliding down. THAT would be a waste of energy. The point being, it is not all that typical to be swinging a mattock from all the way over the shoulder into the ground. That's ideal, and probably most effective....but hardly realistic. At least not in my use. Rarely is a situation that free and clear in my experience.

Way I was taught, can't say I've had one slip since I was a kid and handed a pick which I promptly had slip down on my small hands. I may be dumb, but I ain't stupid...I think

Anyway, chapter 43 here.

 

[sea2summit]

Here is a picture of the head. As you can see it is about 12" long. I'm assuming this is a little mattock and not some sort of wood working tool. The edges are not sharp like an adze or something like that. I will probably turn an 18" handle so it can be used with one or two hands. I think it will be handy in the truck tool box or my wife may be able to use it in the garden.

I do not have any hickory but I do have several freshly cut ash logs waiting to be cut on the saw mill. I think ash would work okay. I'll cut out a rough blank but I'm not sure how long the blank will need to dry before I put it on the lathe?

View attachment 734833

Round handle? Uncommon, pretty cool looking tool.

 

[ultrarunner]

The military surplus pick mattock is a great tool and forged for superior strength... at least the ones I have.

One came with the canvas holder for when it is broken down...

One of my favorite tools for irrigation repair digging

Some of the old timers would soak the end in water to tighten by swelling ..

 

[N80]

Way I was taught, can't say I've had one slip since I was a kid and handed a pick which I promptly had slip down on my small hands. I may be dumb, but I ain't stupid...I think

I'm not saying that a full swing from over the shoulder is wrong. I just don't very often find myself in a situation where that is possible the whole time. There's always branches over head, someone else nearby, the wall of a ditch behind me, etc etc etc.

 

[etpm]

I have never seen a mattock like yours. I have a couple pick mattocks and I have seen others with the pick end being blade like and 90 degrees to the mattock end. Anyway, I had to replace the handle on one of my pick mattocks years ago. It was hard to get the handle to lock in place. What I did to remedy the situation was to spray paint the handle head, fit it into the mattock, and look to see where the paint was rubbed off by the mattock. Then I removed a little material where the paint was rubbed off, painted the area, and then tried fitting again. I only used paint because I wanted the extra visibility. After a few fittings the handle started to really stick into the mattock. The hole in your mattock looks quite round to me, and is unlike the ones I have where the hole is quite oval shaped. But I think the method I used would work well for you too.
Eric

 

[Jstpssng]

With no taper in the eye, I don't think that the OP's head was designed for what we consider to be a standard maddock handle. I think that he's right; he needs to build it like an axe handle. By making the handle himself, he can build it with the grain rather than cross grained the way that so many handles seem to be made now.

 

[Hay Dude]

My wood Mattocks all have the oblong heads. We broke one recently and bought a replacement from HD. Fiberglass/plastic handle. I had my doubts about a “synthetic” handle, but nope, shes still doing well. Just used it last week to dig out some rock around a tank.
If youre still using a Mattock, youre in a unique club. You still got the will to work hard.

 

[N80]

With no taper in the eye, I don't think that the OP's head was designed for what we consider to be a standard maddock handle. I think that he's right; he needs to build it like an axe handle. By making the handle himself, he can build it with the grain rather than cross grained the way that so many handles seem to be made now.

It is hard to see but there is a taper in the eye. Very gradual. I will try to duplicate it on the lathe and can use the method @etpm mentioned to get it really snug. At that point I may add a wedge like an axe. My son-in-law (who is into axes and such) soaks his axe handles in some sort of oil rather than water to keep them swollen and tight in the eye of the axe. I'll ask him about that.

 

[Jstpssng]

I’ve heard of people using anti freeze.
I use a different approach for axe handles; get the handle as tight as I can, leave it near the wood stove to dry, then drive it on a bit farther.

 

[JJT]

Here is a picture of the head. As you can see it is about 12" long. I'm assuming this is a little mattock and not some sort of wood working tool. The edges are not sharp like an adze or something like that. I will probably turn an 18" handle so it can be used with one or two hands. I think it will be handy in the truck tool box or my wife may be able to use it in the garden.

I do not have any hickory but I do have several freshly cut ash logs waiting to be cut on the saw mill. I think ash would work okay. I'll cut out a rough blank but I'm not sure how long the blank will need to dry before I put it on the lathe?

View attachment 734833

Ash will work fine, there's no need for it to be dry. If you were closer I'd give you a stick of hickory. The ash will be significantly lighter....

 

[Jstpssng]

Ash will work fine, there's no need for it to be dry.

If he doesn’t dry it first, more shrinkage will occur and the handle will loosen up. I thought the purpose of this thread was to decide the best way to keep that from happening.