Can this be repaired? If not, does replacement have to be exact OEM?

[jeepcj7]

No repair kit but nothing ventured, nothing gained. Take pictures and take it apart - it might be something you can do yourself with an o-ring or sealant rated for use with diesel fuel.

 

[Old Gray Mare]

IF line from tank is pliable enough and not to brittle, you can probably use a pair of vice grips to pinch off line to keep it from flowing while you fiddle with valve/filter... Basically I would run tractor till fuel is very low in tank to keep from creating a very large puddle if things go wrong... IF valve assembly just has "O" rings any good auto parts or hydraulic shop should have them ... Just be sure the type of "O" ring is compatible with diesel fuel... Pictures sort of indicate you are not the first one to have a problem with this filter body... Even the bracket mounting the unit does not look standard/factory, looks like home brew, unit may not even be what came with tractor originally.

Thanks for the input DL. The hose that looks kinda braided is pretty hard. Would plugging it work to prevent fuel loss? Benn watching videos and one feller used a large screwdriver to plug a line.

I bought it new from a MF dealer, so what is in the pics has never been modified or taken apart.

 

[WranglerX]

Yes you could plug it.... Find something that is tapered that will wedge in hose at some point and maybe tighten clamp a bit to keep it there.... The clamps and wire looks pretty shade tree to be new from dealer, but that is only my observation...

 

[azbinder]

Which hose come from the tank, braided or the solid black on the right of the picture? I use needle nose vise grips to clamp off fuel lines. Go back 3 or 4 inches from the filter assembly and clamp the hose coming from the tank. Then remove the hoses from the filter assy. The wired clamp does look to be oem. The hose looks to be a tight fit. Think it's just to keep the hose from coming off. And yes, there are probable a couple of o'rings on the valve itself.

 

[Dmacleo]

Thanks for the input DL. The hose that looks kinda braided is pretty hard.

keep in mine crimping a brittle hose leads to leaks. I'd work it until almost no fuel in it then just take the loss when unplugging. side benefit old fuel drained...
got to do that to mine soon. all 3 hoses on gc2400 need replace. very very brittle.
5$ of fuel on ground worth it to me if I misjudge usage.

 

[flyerdan]

I'm thinking the air setting on the valve opens the top vent so gravity can fill the filter bowl to purge the air, and as such it should allow the line to drain a bit if you can put a vacuum on the filler of the tank. That should let you take the hose off and plug it without losing any fuel.
Then there should be a couple of O rings on it, when putting it back together of course feel around inside for any burr or debris that might damage the new O rings.

 

[LouNY]

Plug the line with a screw driver, bolt or pencil.

 

[Old Gray Mare]

I'm thinking the air setting on the valve opens the top vent so gravity can fill the filter bowl to purge the air, and as such it should allow the line to drain a bit if you can put a vacuum on the filler of the tank. That should let you take the hose off and plug it without losing any fuel.
Then there should be a couple of O rings on it, when putting it back together of course feel around inside for any burr or debris that might damage the new O rings.

How would I create a vacuum on the tank filler? FYI...there's typically a hissing sound when I remove gas cap.

I'm NOT leery of doing this job, but if the woven hose (comes from the fuel tank) is too brittle to be removed from the filter, I guess just leave it on and let 'er drain the tank?

After that, how would the air get removed from from that line? Would it affect the line to the injectors (the short black one goes to fuel pump and is hard, also) ? A line then goes out of the pump to the injectors.

So appreciate all the help!!

 

[Old Gray Mare]

keep in mine crimping a brittle hose leads to leaks. I'd work it until almost no fuel in it then just take the loss when unplugging. side benefit old fuel drained...

If the hose cracks and then leaks, how difficult is it to replace the line from the tank?

Right now, any fuel loss is like burning a pile of cash. Last week I put 19 gallons of diesel in my '93 GMC K2500 and paid $108!!! Never in my 73 years have I seen such prices...{{sigh}}

 

[etpm]

If the hose cracks and then leaks, how difficult is it to replace the line from the tank?

Right now, any fuel loss is like burning a pile of cash. Last week I put 19 gallons of diesel in my '93 GMC K2500 and paid $108!!! Never in my 73 years have I seen such prices...{{sigh}}

You can plug the hose with most anything that is the right diameter and is made from metal. If the hose is exhibiting signs of cracking then it should be replaced. I have no idea waht is involved in replacing the hose on your tractor because I am not familiar with very many tractors. I am familiar with hose leaks in gasoline powered stuff though. And if the hose is cracking that is a sign that the hose should be replaced. I'm not saying it is an emergency, but to avoid an emergency it is best to replace and fuel hose that is cracking.
It sounds to me like you should run the tank nearly dry or you should siphon the fuel out, then clamp the hose from the tank to prevent leaks. Then attempt repairs. I only say this because of your expressed concern about cracked fuel hose.
From your pictures the valve looks like it is retained by that screw on the side. Others have posted the same opinion before me. If the screw is retaining the valve then it will almost certainly have o-rings that can be found at any decent hardware store or auto parts supplier. I would try an auto parts supplier first because it is more likely that they will be selling o-rings that are fuel resistant. When buying the o-rings get an extra set because they are cheap and handy. And then buy one more and let it soak in a jar of diesel fuel. Check it now and then to see if it swells or gets soft. The last bit of advice is from personal experience of failed o-rings that were supposed to be the right type of rubber but were not.
Eric