Can this be repaired? If not, does replacement have to be exact OEM?

[jeepcj7]

No repair kit but nothing ventured, nothing gained. Take pictures and take it apart - it might be something you can do yourself with an o-ring or sealant rated for use with diesel fuel.

 

[Old Gray Mare]

IF line from tank is pliable enough and not to brittle, you can probably use a pair of vice grips to pinch off line to keep it from flowing while you fiddle with valve/filter... Basically I would run tractor till fuel is very low in tank to keep from creating a very large puddle if things go wrong... IF valve assembly just has "O" rings any good auto parts or hydraulic shop should have them ... Just be sure the type of "O" ring is compatible with diesel fuel... Pictures sort of indicate you are not the first one to have a problem with this filter body... Even the bracket mounting the unit does not look standard/factory, looks like home brew, unit may not even be what came with tractor originally.

Thanks for the input DL. The hose that looks kinda braided is pretty hard. Would plugging it work to prevent fuel loss? Benn watching videos and one feller used a large screwdriver to plug a line.

I bought it new from a MF dealer, so what is in the pics has never been modified or taken apart.

 

[WranglerX]

Yes you could plug it.... Find something that is tapered that will wedge in hose at some point and maybe tighten clamp a bit to keep it there.... The clamps and wire looks pretty shade tree to be new from dealer, but that is only my observation...

 

[azbinder]

Which hose come from the tank, braided or the solid black on the right of the picture? I use needle nose vise grips to clamp off fuel lines. Go back 3 or 4 inches from the filter assembly and clamp the hose coming from the tank. Then remove the hoses from the filter assy. The wired clamp does look to be oem. The hose looks to be a tight fit. Think it's just to keep the hose from coming off. And yes, there are probable a couple of o'rings on the valve itself.

 

[Dmacleo]

Thanks for the input DL. The hose that looks kinda braided is pretty hard.

keep in mine crimping a brittle hose leads to leaks. I'd work it until almost no fuel in it then just take the loss when unplugging. side benefit old fuel drained...
got to do that to mine soon. all 3 hoses on gc2400 need replace. very very brittle.
5$ of fuel on ground worth it to me if I misjudge usage.

 

[flyerdan]

I'm thinking the air setting on the valve opens the top vent so gravity can fill the filter bowl to purge the air, and as such it should allow the line to drain a bit if you can put a vacuum on the filler of the tank. That should let you take the hose off and plug it without losing any fuel.
Then there should be a couple of O rings on it, when putting it back together of course feel around inside for any burr or debris that might damage the new O rings.

 

[LouNY]

Plug the line with a screw driver, bolt or pencil.

 

[Old Gray Mare]

I'm thinking the air setting on the valve opens the top vent so gravity can fill the filter bowl to purge the air, and as such it should allow the line to drain a bit if you can put a vacuum on the filler of the tank. That should let you take the hose off and plug it without losing any fuel.
Then there should be a couple of O rings on it, when putting it back together of course feel around inside for any burr or debris that might damage the new O rings.

How would I create a vacuum on the tank filler? FYI...there's typically a hissing sound when I remove gas cap.

I'm NOT leery of doing this job, but if the woven hose (comes from the fuel tank) is too brittle to be removed from the filter, I guess just leave it on and let 'er drain the tank?

After that, how would the air get removed from from that line? Would it affect the line to the injectors (the short black one goes to fuel pump and is hard, also) ? A line then goes out of the pump to the injectors.

So appreciate all the help!!

 

[Old Gray Mare]

keep in mine crimping a brittle hose leads to leaks. I'd work it until almost no fuel in it then just take the loss when unplugging. side benefit old fuel drained...

If the hose cracks and then leaks, how difficult is it to replace the line from the tank?

Right now, any fuel loss is like burning a pile of cash. Last week I put 19 gallons of diesel in my '93 GMC K2500 and paid $108!!! Never in my 73 years have I seen such prices...{{sigh}}

 

[etpm]

If the hose cracks and then leaks, how difficult is it to replace the line from the tank?

Right now, any fuel loss is like burning a pile of cash. Last week I put 19 gallons of diesel in my '93 GMC K2500 and paid $108!!! Never in my 73 years have I seen such prices...{{sigh}}

You can plug the hose with most anything that is the right diameter and is made from metal. If the hose is exhibiting signs of cracking then it should be replaced. I have no idea waht is involved in replacing the hose on your tractor because I am not familiar with very many tractors. I am familiar with hose leaks in gasoline powered stuff though. And if the hose is cracking that is a sign that the hose should be replaced. I'm not saying it is an emergency, but to avoid an emergency it is best to replace and fuel hose that is cracking.
It sounds to me like you should run the tank nearly dry or you should siphon the fuel out, then clamp the hose from the tank to prevent leaks. Then attempt repairs. I only say this because of your expressed concern about cracked fuel hose.
From your pictures the valve looks like it is retained by that screw on the side. Others have posted the same opinion before me. If the screw is retaining the valve then it will almost certainly have o-rings that can be found at any decent hardware store or auto parts supplier. I would try an auto parts supplier first because it is more likely that they will be selling o-rings that are fuel resistant. When buying the o-rings get an extra set because they are cheap and handy. And then buy one more and let it soak in a jar of diesel fuel. Check it now and then to see if it swells or gets soft. The last bit of advice is from personal experience of failed o-rings that were supposed to be the right type of rubber but were not.
Eric

 

[bcp]

Might be time to replace fuel hoses while you are in there. Maybe add a valve.

Bruce

 

[xrjohndeere]

Just drain the fuel from the tank into a diesel container. Once tank is empty just put you a wood plug in the hose made out of dowl or whatever is handy. Put your pocket knife and whittle skills to use. I think at this point I would consider replacing the whole fuel line if it is brittle. It would not hurt to run the tractor with it dripping but I would not want the mess. Clean that assembly real good before you take it apart. You don’t want little dirt particles to get into the assembly.

 

[irvingj]

FWIW: I always keep a couple golf tees in my toolbox for plugging fuel or vacuum lines...

 

[Dmacleo]

If the hose cracks and then leaks, how difficult is it to replace the line from the tank?

Right now, any fuel loss is like burning a pile of cash. Last week I put 19 gallons of diesel in my '93 GMC K2500 and paid $108!!! Never in my 73 years have I seen such prices...{{sigh}}

prob a real pain in a$$. my gc2400 looks to be a real b*tch on that yet I have to as hose hard and brittle after 12 years.
MF1250 unit uses an approx 8 gallon tank. run it until low take the loss of gallon or 2 when unplugging. the 10$ fuel cheaper than the 20+$ of fuel line and hours of labor.

 

[Old Gray Mare]

prob a real pain in a$$. my gc2400 looks to be a real b*tch on that yet I have to as hose hard and brittle after 12 years.
MF1250 unit uses an approx 8 gallon tank. run it until low take the loss of gallon or 2 when unplugging. the 10$ fuel cheaper than the 20+$ of fuel line and hours of labor.

I'm agreeing with you on taking a small loss. It rained yesterday (in Arizona!) so things are too muddy to get work done today. It's nice all the rest of this week and next, so will use up most of the fuel then.

Thanks for all your advise!

 

[Old Gray Mare]

Thank you all for the great advise and help!
I plan on using up most of the fuel and lose what is left when I take the housing handle off. I'm going to "the big town" (60 miles away) tomorrow that has an O'Reilley's so I can get o-rings, brake cleaner to clean things up before disassembly, hose clamps, and fuel line just in case.
How do I determine the size of the fuel line before hand? I looked in the Service Manual and it doesn't say, nor does it say where the line goes to the fuel tank.

Thanks again for the help.

 

[Fxfymn413]

Would plugging it work to prevent fuel loss? B

The plastic nozzle that comes with the tubes of silicone gasket sealer are my go to. They are tapered and fit a variety of hose sizes.

 

[Dmacleo]

would be interested to hear how it goes , please let us know.
yeah sometimes better to just lose a little fuel and start with known fresh fuel also.
got a 1532 (neighbors but I use often) at dealer right now with gelled up injectors due to bad fuel. they didn't think to run it 5 minutes every day or 2 this winter so sat since first week of November. guarantee you all the old fuel will be drained when in shop today LOL

 

[flyerdan]

If the tank is above the filter, gravity should purge all the air when the valve is set to air; if it's below the filter using the air setting should purge when cranking without getting air into the injector lines downstream, path of least resistance and all that.
If you have enough storage to drain the fuel, just cut the line near the filter inlet and let it drain, you'll need to anyway to replace the hose. Take a small piece of it, along with the O rings from the selector so you get the right sizes.

 

[WranglerX]

Thank you all for the great advise and help!
I plan on using up most of the fuel and lose what is left when I take the housing handle off. I'm going to "the big town" (60 miles away) tomorrow that has an O'Reilley's so I can get o-rings, brake cleaner to clean things up before disassembly, hose clamps, and fuel line just in case.
How do I determine the size of the fuel line before hand? I looked in the Service Manual and it doesn't say, nor does it say where the line goes to the fuel tank.

Thanks again for the help.

I would disassemble thing first then go to town the way you and stare and compare for exact match.... Pre buying of unconfirmed sizes usually leads to parts that don't work in situation you are trying to fix....