Yanmar FX32 fuses

[Peterchris]

I've been having a problem starting my tractor. Now, even with the battery charged, nothing happens when I turn the key left (for the glowplugs) or right. The four buss fuses that you can see on the left side behind the engine are all fine. Are there other fuses elsewhere? Or maybe I have a major wiring problem.

 

[seville009]

Maybe one of the safety switches is bad or their wiring has come loose. I'd check those out first if you haven't already done so.

 

[Menagerie-Manor]

I've been having a problem starting my tractor. Now, even with the battery charged, nothing happens when I turn the key left (for the glowplugs) or right. The four buss fuses that you can see on the left side behind the engine are all fine. Are there other fuses elsewhere? Or maybe I have a major wiring problem.

Check the wiring connectors on the clutch safety switch, I've experienced brush pulling the wiring from the switch connector more than once.

 

[Roadworthy]

Go through the manual to determine what safety switches you must satisfy. Anything preventing the seat from going fully down tells the tractor you're not sitting on it. Do you have a neutral safety switch? Did you accidentally leave the PTO engaged? If you have an HST transmission the pedal must be in a neutral position. Sometimes binding can prevent this.

 

[bmaverick]

Go through the manual to determine what safety switches you must satisfy. Anything preventing the seat from going fully down tells the tractor you're not sitting on it. Do you have a neutral safety switch? Did you accidentally leave the PTO engaged? If you have an HST transmission the pedal must be in a neutral position. Sometimes binding can prevent this.

What manual. hahahaha It's a Gray Market machine.

We do have the FX32-FX42 Parts Manual in PDF now at the,
Yanmar Tractor Owners Group. Link in my signature below.

Otherwise, the closest manual to compare is a JD 70 Series.

 

[Peterchris]

Thanks for the suggestions!

 

[Peterchris]

Back on this problem. Today I tried 'hot-wiring' the starter, and it turned.

I checked for a clutch safety switch, and could not find one. Also, no safety switch in the seat. And now the ignition switch problem has gotten worse: at first the glow plugs worked and the fuel valve opened, but now the glow plugs don't come on in the preheat position, and the fuel valve doesn't open any more. (I used to be able to hear it when I turned the key.) It seems like the problem is in the ignition switch. Has anyone in the forum ever worked on one? Is it difficult to remove?

 

[ponytug]

Sure, it could be the ignition switch; but it wouldn't be my first choice. First things first. I would double check the battery voltage across the terminals, but also from the starter solenoid to the engine. I always wiggle the cables to see if they are stiff, or corroded, or loose.

I would then test for voltage on the key switch contacts before you do anything else, and then, if voltage is present, check that you get voltage on the other wires when the key turns. Did you check the voltage at the fuse box, and across the fuses?

I tend to reduce these things to the basics, and wire trace. If it were me, if none of the above work, I would start at the fuel solenoid, or starter solenoid, and work back.

All the best,

Peter

 

[Peterchris]

Thanks for those suggestions. I have the ignition switch out of the tractor, and it works in all the key positions. Tomorrow I'll check the voltages as you recommended. Thanks again!

 

[YanmarFever]

I "THINK" the safety switch on the FX32 is behind a plastic console and it gets pushed by a tab on the clutch pedal.
Sometimes the screw adjusting ring backs off or loosens on the switch. You might have to remove the black plastic panel to get to it, and check the wires on it while you're in there.
Also there is no switch on the seat.
While you are at it, trace the negative battery cable to where it hooks unto the frame, unbolt it and wire brush the tractor ( frame and cable ).
Then clean both battery posts until they are clean and place them back on good & tight, also check the positive cable where it hooks up at the starter / solenoid.
Hopefully it starts...

 

[bmaverick]

Thanks for those suggestions. I have the ignition switch out of the tractor, and it works in all the key positions. Tomorrow I'll check the voltages as you recommended. Thanks again!

Did you find - - -
YANMAR FX32 FX42 PARTS MANUAL NPC-1574.pdf

It will show you the information Yanmar Fever mentioned.

 

[Williy]

I hope you have a volt/ohm meter so you can
check the fuses etc

willy

 

[Peterchris]

I filed, sanded, and wire-brushed every connection from the battery to ground and from the battery to the starter. It worked! I was able to start the tractor with the key. That you so much for the help!

 

[YanmarFever]

I had 2 FX32s with Koyker loaders for a few years, they were my favorite and the perfect size.

Keep them cables clean and tight

 

[bmaverick]

I filed, sanded, and wire-brushed every connection from the battery to ground and from the battery to the starter. It worked! I was able to start the tractor with the key. That you so much for the help!

Amazing how simple ocean salty air in paradise can affect wires and connections.

 

[YanmarFever]

Did you find - - -
YANMAR FX32 FX42 PARTS MANUAL NPC-1574.pdf

It will show you the information Yanmar Fever mentioned.

The FX32 & the FX42 are really the same tractors, only the 42 has a turbo charger that gives it the extra 10 hp.

 

[ponytug]

Amazing how simple ocean salty air in paradise can affect wires and connections.

Don't forget the higher ozone levels. I have seen wire nuts, inside a junction box, inside a building, corrode, and rust out in Hawaii.

I am a big fan of coating electrical contacts as a result. Get the surfaces super clean, and then put a layer of copper /graphite laden dielectric grease on. Tractors run on 12-14V, and it doesn't take much in the way of surface gunk/corrosion to make a contact surface non-conductive, i.e. not actually able conduct meaningful amounts of electricity due to the surface resistance. I am also a fan of re-wiring using marine grade tinned wire and marine grade heat shrink connectors with thermal glue linings. Do it once...

All the best,

Peter