What size boards should I cut on saw mill?

[N80]

I know that the answer to that question is another question: What size boards do I need?

The issue is that I have two large red oaks, one decent sized white oak and a decent sized ash on the ground. I'd like to go ahead and get them milled but I don't have a specific use in mind yet. I may be making some built in shelves out of the oak at some point but no definite plans yet.

I'm not too concerned about the width of the boards. I'll probably let the log dictate that. But what about the thickness? Should I cut them all at 1"? Or slightly over 1" to allow for planning? Or slightly over 3/4"? My main goal is for them to have the most potential utility for me or someone else for the widest range of uses in the future. Any input appreciated.

 

[Jstpssng]

I know that the answer to that question is another question: What size boards do I need?

The issue is that I have two large red oaks, one decent sized white oak and a decent sized ash on the ground. I'd like to go ahead and get them milled but I don't have a specific use in mind yet. I may be making some built in shelves out of the oak at some point but no definite plans yet.

I'm not too concerned about the width of the boards. I'll probably let the log dictate that. But what about the thickness? Should I cut them all at 1"? Or slightly over 1" to allow for planning? Or slightly over 3/4"? My main goal is for them to have the most potential utility for me or someone else for the widest range of uses in the future. Any input appreciated.

Saw them into 6 inch cants and finish them when you decide what to do with them. Granted it will saw a bit harder and you might need to change blades more often.
Oak tends to get a lot of mineral in the bark. It might be worthwhile to debark them first, at least where the blade will be cutting.

I will probably get shot down on both points from people who are experienced sawyers.

 

[quicksandfarmer]

I've been buying a lot of rough lumber lately and I haven't seen anyone who stocks any sizes other than 4/4, 5/4 and 8/4. Maybe rarely 6/4. You get paid more per board foot for the larger sizes, but it's harder to cut around unusable sections of the wood. If the wood is sawn green it will shrink quite a bit, a board that is cut a true 4/4 green won't always plane out to 3/4" once it's dried. Boards that are less than 3/4" are hard to use because they won't match everything else, when you're doing trim it's important to have all the pieces the same thickness.

The most money is in custom sawing, you'll get more money for a 6x8 than you would for six 1x8's.

 

[N80]

@Jstpssng I've got blades specifically for hardwoods. Have not tried one yet as I've been cutting pine up until now.

I have a draw knife that I use to de-bark where the blade will pass if the bark looks gunked up.

I'll think about the 6 inch cants but would like to get this wood cut up and bring it back home to put in my basement to dry.

 

[N80]

I've been buying a lot of rough lumber lately and I haven't seen anyone who stocks any sizes other than 4/4, 5/4 and 8/4. Maybe rarely 6/4. You get paid more per board foot for the larger sizes, but it's harder to cut around unusable sections of the wood. If the wood is sawn green it will shrink quite a bit, a board that is cut a true 4/4 green won't always plane out to 3/4" once it's dried. Boards that are less than 3/4" are hard to use because they won't match everything else, when you're doing trim it's important to have all the pieces the same thickness.

The most money is in custom sawing, you'll get more money for a 6x8 than you would for six 1x8's.

I've read about the sizing terminology but don't remember. 4/4 is 1 inch? 5/4 is 1 and 1/4 inch? (Up until now I've just been cutting rough lumber and posts and haven't needed to pay attention to terms and conventions for boards. Time to learn I guess.)

For the record I'm not milling to sell wood. Strictly hobby.

 

[JJT]

5/4 gets my vote

 

[quicksandfarmer]

Yes, 4/4= one inch, 8/4 = two inches.

The general rule is that the thickness of rough lumber is marked in quarter inches and finished lumber is marked in inches. So if you're talking about a 1" board it would be 4/4 rough and say a 1x6 finished. To further confuse things, finished lumber is marked with the size it was rough. Lumber is usually milled green and then dried before finishing, it shrinks in the drying and some of the wood is removed in the finishing. The rule is that finished lumber under 2" is expected to be 1/4" less than the rough size, 2-6 inches is 1/2" less than the rough size and over 6" is 3/4 less than the rough size. So a 2x4 is actually 1-1/2" by 3-1/2" and a 1x8 is 3/4" by 7-1/4".

Now, 5/4 is kind of an oddball, it's sold as 5/4 both rough and finished. A 5/4 finished board is 1" thick which is a handy size.

 

[2manyrocks]

I'd say to go thicker than you would think based on my experience. I have some roughsawn oak that I've run through the planer. I'd guess it starts off as 1 inch to 1 1/8 inch, but by the time I get it flat out of the planner, it's probably only 5/8 inch thick.

Some of this depends on how flat you are able to get it cut in the first place. Some depends on how much it cups as it dries.

It's also surprising how much wood is lost going through the planer to get it smooth and flat not to mention how much is lost cutting out the portions that aren't suitable for finish work.

 

[N80]

Thanks guys. Great info as usual. I think I’ll do 5/4 at a minimum.

Milling posts and 2x lumber has been simple and successful….well, there are a couple of twisters in the drying stacks….but not many.

Sounds like hardwood boards is going to require a little more thought, planning and precision especially since I am going to try semi quarter sawing some of it.

 

[2manyrocks]

Maybe worth mentioning too is that I've lost some useable wood because the board edges cracked. What was a 10' piece ends up 9 feet let's say when I actually start to plane the wood for actual use. I think there may be some ways to treat the edges. Someone else may have some suggestions on this.

The final product is heavy.

It's also amazing how much really nice wood you can get doing this compared to the extremely high prices they charge for a little teeny piece of wood at the box stores.

 

[N80]

The ends of the logs have anchor seal on them. There is still some end checking but not bad.The ash has the least. I cut the white oak that I'll use for built in shelves almost two feet longer than what I'll need. Might need to reapply anchor seal if any of the ends need to be removed during or after milling.

 

[plowhog]

I had the same dilemma regarding what size to cut. I've settled on 1 1/4 inch as it is very versatile. After drying you have 1", or can plane it to 3/4" if needed.

I've read that you should put your stickers right near the edge of the cut lumber. And that cracking (even with anchorseal) will stop at the first sticker.

This hasn't been my experience. I've been working madrone wood (which is notorious for being difficult) and it is cracking well past the end stickers.

 

[Jstpssng]

I had the same dilemma regarding what size to cut. I've settled on 1 1/4 inch as it is very versatile. After drying you have 1", or can plane it to 3/4" if needed.

I've read that you should put your stickers right near the edge of the cut lumber. And that cracking (even with anchorseal) will stop at the first sticker.

This hasn't been my experience. I've been working madrone wood (which is notorious for being difficult) and it is cracking well past the end stickers.

Another thing, if you plan to use it for finished use; your stickers should be the same species as your wood. Don't ask me why, but we were told that at a commercial hardwood mill so hopefully they know what they are talking about.

 

[quicksandfarmer]

Another thing, if you plan to use it for finished use; your stickers should be the same species as your wood. Don't ask me why, but we were told that at a commercial hardwood mill so hopefully they know what they are talking about.

I've had wood pick up a stain when the stickers were a different species. It was very deep, like a quarter inch into the wood, no way to sand it out. With linseed oil and age it eventually just looked like part of the character of the wood but initially it looked terrible.

 

[Jstpssng]

I've had wood pick up a stain when the stickers were a different species. It was very deep, like a quarter inch into the wood, no way to sand it out. With linseed oil and age it eventually just looked like part of the character of the wood but initially it looked terrible.

That is good to know. They told us why, but it was a few years ago and I couldn’t remember.

 

[newbury]

Back to size -

I'll think about the 6 inch cants but would like to get this wood cut up and bring it back home to put in my basement to dry.

Now your narrowing down usage -
It's hard to determine "size" - if your putting it in your basement to dry what's the max length you can fit down the path you have to go?
Do you have to hand carry?
I put several 10' x 2"+ in my shed through a walkout door. That was 10 years ago. I could not do that today (they were so heavy).
Now if you have a forklift you can drive into the basement, or 4 more strong people to help 6" would make sense.
You can ALWAYS make them smaller, but making larger and gluing up is a whole 'nother thing.

 

[N80]

My basement is only accessible by foot or wagon. I'll just cut boards rather than cants. If I cut cants and put them in the basement I'd have to haul them back down to the cabin to cut them up.

 

[/pine]

just curious...have you mastered the art of cutting stickers ?

any plans in your future of a HD planer ?

 

[N80]

just curious...have you mastered the art of cutting stickers ?

any plans in your future of a HD planer ?

I've got a big pile of 1x1 and 1x2 stickers.

My father-in-law has a basic Dewalt planer that he said I could use but so far no plans for anything more than that at present.

My current (long range) lumber plans are for a stick built shop with 2x6 studs and board and batten siding and a 15X20' post and beam carport. The carport will come first and I'm getting close to having all that lumber cut. None of this things will likely need planing. The Dewalt could handle the siding boards themselves but not sure how it would stand up to the volume.

 

[/pine]

I've got a big pile of 1x1 and 1x2 stickers.

My father-in-law has a basic Dewalt planer that he said I could use but so far no plans for anything more than that at present.

My current (long range) lumber plans are for a stick built shop with 2x6 studs and board and batten siding and a 15X20' post and beam carport. The carport will come first and I'm getting close to having all that lumber cut. None of this things will likely need planing. The Dewalt could handle the siding boards themselves but not sure how it would stand up to the volume.

Sounds like you have a good plan...
FWIW, B&B siding boards can be installed wet/green as long as the battens are nailed in the center so the siding can "move" under them without splitting as the boards shrink...