Ssqa snowplow conversion advice needed

[PreacherM]

I've got an old Western snowplow model 60214 (6'6") that I want to convert to a SSQA for use on my tractor. The plow is in good shape, but the cylinders are not. I had to cut the pins to get them off. Not sure if they are worth rebuilding? How do I know what size cylinders I need?

 

[George2615]

I built mine from an old truck blade 7 1/2' as well. Got the QA blank plate from Titan, did my own welding, Bought replacement used cylinders at a local truck snow plow shop for $25ea. Installed a cushion valve in the middle where the hoses are attached. I ran 2 hoses from one of my rear remotes to the front to angle the blade.

 

[Doughknob]

Have you priced a good new ssqa blade?!

 

[PreacherM]

No. I seen a used one of Marketplace for 1100. I'll have a few dollars in paint, 160 in 2 new cylinders, similar for hoses and fittings. Approximately 150 in steel. All said and done I should be around 5-600. It sounds like a fun project. Also will need to add the 3rd function on the tractor.

 

[LouNY]

If you haven't started your build yet, a suggestion.
Mount your blade under your loader and as close to the tractor as you can and still get your desired blade angle.
The under slung mounts discussed in several threads on here keep your blade closer to the tractor,
which has several benefits, the over all length is less, the tractor movement up and down will have less effect on the blade,
the apparent weight will be less.

 

[Rustyiron]

Not sure if they are worth rebuilding? How do I know what size cylinders I need?

Swing the "A" frame all the way in either direction, then measure the cylinder mounting holes on both the sides (one side long & the other short). This will tell you your cylinder retracted and extended (stroke) dimensions. Don't be concerned about finding the exact dimension, just don't use one with a longer stroke. Measure the pin diameter that the frame will accept and the required length. Order them all online including the big cotter pins.
If you're handy with fabrication, make your own ssqa plate by either copying another attachment or building it on your tractor, it's simple.

 

[PreacherM]

Thanks for the input all. It's a long time til I'll need it, but these projects sometimes take me awhile. I don't have my own welder, torch, or plasma cutter so have to work on it when my brothers shop is available. I'm no engineer but fabricating this shouldn't be difficult. I'm pretty green about hydraulics though. Will probably start a separate thread on the 3rd function install.

 

[chim]

A few of us used this approach:

Snow Plow Build Finished - Underslung QA Loader Mount

Finally finished my underslung plow frame project. Plow is an 8 Fisher Speedcast I picked up on Craigslist for $300, a steal considering it also included all the truck side frame and hydraulics. The quick attach plate is a 5/16 thick version. The horizontal frame tubes are 3 inch 1/4 inch...

www.tractorbynet.com

A Setback or "underslung" SSQA Snow Plow Build Story

I wanted to put a plow on the M5640. I found a guy who wanted to restore a '91 F150 and would give the plow to someone who would take it off the truck. So I did. The plan was to sell the pump, valve/control, head gear, and truck frame parts and start out ahead but that hasn't happened. I...

www.tractorbynet.com

SSQA Snow Plow

Although this is a "Build it Yourself" forum, I didn't do any of the welding on this project and the design was mostly based on builds by Paul Short and TractorNH. Our Weld Shop at work was pretty much out of things to do. With that opportunity, it made sense to let someone with a lot of...

www.tractorbynet.com

 

[PreacherM]

That's what I'm aiming to do. Great info. I'll mostly be plowing gravel areas, but also a couple concrete garage approaches. The plow probably won't clean the concrete as well as my current garden tractor snowblower, but should do it much quicker.

 

[PreacherM]

Got two new cylinders for the snowplow. Planning out the hydraulics for the plow and tractor. I'd like to include a flow restrictor. Will a restrictor on only one hose create the desired affect for both? Or do I need a restrictor on both?

 

[M59]

I've got an old Western snowplow model 60214 (6'6") that I want to convert to a SSQA for use on my tractor. The plow is in good shape, but the cylinders are not. I had to cut the pins to get them off. Not sure if they are worth rebuilding? How do I know what size cylinders I need?

You should copy the original cylinder's since, based on the picture, you have the entire system except for the receiver mounted on the truck. The existing "old" cylinders give full L and R swing based on existing mount points.
You are looking for cylinders rated pressure 1.5 times the pressure that tractor capable for providing.

Here is link for sizing a hydraulic ram.

How to Measure a Hydraulic Cylinder

Learn how to measure a hydraulic cylinder. Includes discussion of how to properly measure a hydraulic cylinder for replacement.

www.hydrauliccylindersinc.com

 

[Rustyiron]

Got two new cylinders for the snowplow. Planning out the hydraulics for the plow and tractor. I'd like to include a flow restrictor. Will a restrictor on only one hose create the desired affect for both? Or do I need a restrictor on both?

Are you worried that they'll be too fast?
I've never used them but there's some kind of restrictor "washer" that you can put into a fitting or hose end. I don't remember if there's different orifice sizes or if you simply drill it.
It was here on TBN that I've read the conversation. The plows that I've made were for skid steers and there's a flow controller built in the machine so I can handle the cylinder speed with this.
Unless you're tractor is hydrostatic and you'll have your rpm's up, you should have time enough to try it without. Most tractors don't deliver much flow (or the rated flow) at lower rpm's and you might be fine.

 

[amhicks21]

You'll want to run flow restrictors. you can do adjustable valves but you'll want them on both sides and you'll want the ones that only restrict flow in one direction and not the other so it doesn't cause the cylinders to basically fight against each other. Imagine the cylinder on one side trying to extend faster than the one on the other side can retract. My first plow build was with a curtis and from having too much inlet flow on one side and too little outlet flow on the other side it actually wore through the center pivot after a few years. Without flow control and using an electric 3rd function the blade would snap back and forth quite hard and cause excess wear on the plow and loader. You probably know already, but you'll want a crossover relief valve as well. Otherwise its just a matter of time before either the loader or plow gets some major damage.

for the flow control you can use something like

Buyers F800S 1/2" NPT Steel Flow Control Valve​

and for crossover relief something like

Buyers Products Cross Over Relief Valve, SAE, GPM 10, Working Port 1/2 in, Max. PSI 3000, Model# HCR050SAE​

 

[5030]

Here is mine. Works fine, maybe a tad wide but I deal with it just fine. I do run chains on the front tires when plowing but not the rear.

Don't really look forward to winter, I prefer warm weather myself.

 

[M59]

5030,

What was the hardest part of adapting a commercial plow to the tractor and what was your solution.

Looks like a 10 foot wide blade. Ever consider plasma cutting 1 foot of either side to reduce pushing the front around when angled?

 

[amhicks21]

I forgot i had a picture of what happens if the flow restriction isnt set up correctly. to be fair, the center pivot on curtis plows is pretty weak to begin with.

 

[Gordon Gould]

amhicks21 is right. If you have electric 3rd function valves (full on/off) you will want restrictors or your plow will really slam on angling. I used 0 to 5 gpm needle valves from Surplus Center. They work well on my M5640 tractor. I also used a cross over relief valve from SC. Plow cylinders had a warning not to exceed 2500 psi all over them. My tractor runs at 2800 plus when you push into a solid bank or hit something you will want hydraulic relief to protect the cylinders.

Prince Mfg | Brands | www.surpluscenter.com

Prince Mfg,Brands, HAND PUMP HYDRAULIC SYSTEM Brand new PRINCE. Operates hydraulic presses, dumps, plows, snow blades, hydraulic tables, frame

www.surpluscenter.com

gg

 

[PreacherM]

With all these good suggestions I'll need to increase my budget for hydraulics! Oh well, I'd much rather buy a $100 crossover relief than (possibly) deal with a tweaked FEL or broken plow.

 

[5030]

5030,

What was the hardest part of adapting a commercial plow to the tractor and what was your solution.

Looks like a 10 foot wide blade. Ever consider plasma cutting 1 foot of either side to reduce pushing the front around when angled?

No not at all. The M9 handles the 10 footer just fine. I will say I have a blower on the back as well so if it gets too deep-drifted, I flip around and blow it away. No front pushing with the chains on, why I run them.

No hard part, just some welding and fabrication and I don't run any flow restrictors in the lines either. No need to.

 

[M59]

Thanks. I am interested in adapting an 8 foot Fischer to my M59. Your M9000 and my M59 TLB are pretty close in factory delivered weight.