Initial attachments to get with new Kubota L3560LE?

[crashz]

My L2501 has been great. Love the machine, but it works on much smaller properties than yours. I use it at home ~ 3 acres, and cut small fields (too small to bale, too rough to mow with a lawn mower) and it's just right for what I do.

With that said, I feel that is a bit tippy on steep slopes (I do not have wheel spacers) and I feel that the Grand L is wider and heavier, giving it added stability on slopes. With 75 acres, even if only 15 are accessible, I think you'll quickly want more machine. I'd love a cabbed L4060, but it's twice the price and I'd literally do the same stuff as I do now. Maybe someday.

The Piranha bar is great for light digging and shearing small growth. I have had luck clearing bushy growth by scraping about 1/2" of soil flat, ripping or cutting through the roots. But not trees. Anything over 1.5 inches in diameter usually make it struggle. Digging root balls isn't really a loader type of task. These light tractors aren't built for it. The Piranha is probably the best at it, but you need to remember that these are not bulldozers.

 

[ljjhouser]

BEFORE you buy. I live in the Ozarks. The best of rocky and hilly. You may want to stand behind the 2501, the 3901, and the 4701 and take a close look at the actual WIDEST footprint (max width of the rear tires) and where that places the center of gravity. Make sure the dealer knows you want the rims set as wide as possible. I think the 2501 and 3901 have the same hydraulics and chassis. The 4701 has a larger chassis and hydraulic capacity. If you choose something larger, Kubota has a very good financing plan. Or you may choose to go heavier in another brand that costs a little less. I, of course, like Kubota. But there are a lot of good tractors to look at.

In 2017, I was considering a 3901. (nice tractor) But after a lot of thought, and looking at them, I decided on the 4701. Some smaller tractors seemed to have a narrow footprint and a little higher c of g.

I have never regreted that decision for a second. Box blade for me. Mine adds 400 pounds of much needed weight to the rear. and 4 added 4x8x16 concrete blocks adds another 120 pounds to that. Remember, using a box blade also means that you may use the bucket to add and move rock/gravel. Thereby - consider the ballast.
ALSO, re read post 17. A lot of Important info there.

 

[ScottHam]

ScottHam:​

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Thank you!

 

[oosik]

I have 80 acres and a mile long gravel driveway. I started out in 1982 with a brand new Ford 1700 4WD. It was great and for 27 years it did everything I wanted to do.

In 2009 I wanted to move on to larger projects. Traded the Ford in for a 2009 Kubota M6040. I've been slowly upgrading my implements also. Last one to upgrade - an appropriate disk harrow.

After 27 years I got almost the exact same trade in value for the Ford as I paid for it in 1982.

The heavier Kubota allows me to use a HD grapple and very heavy rear blade. I also have a LPGS for use on my driveway. With the HD grapple, heavy rear blade and Rimguard loaded rear tires - the M6040 weighs in at 10,000+#.

As sure as I say this - things will change. But for the last 3 or 4 years I've not really needed to plow snow on my driveway. The changing environment - perhaps.

My projects now include moving large, heavy sections of pine tree trunks and large rocks. The rear blade and LPGS make clearing new trails quite easy.

 

[Rdrcr]

^^^^
Weight = work. You can’t beat weight.

Mike

 

[Username Taken]

Here is another question in connection with my upcoming purchase of a Kubota 2501HST with FEL and 3rd function valve. I'm planning for R4 tires and rear wheel spacers. The primary intended use for my tractor is brush clearing and road maintenance. My property here in the Texas hill country is rocky and hilly, and my half-mile driveway is narrow and curvy and fairly steep in some places. The steep places are paved, and the rest is caliche/gravel/dirt. The brush consists of juniper/cedar bushes/trees including little saplings up to ~16-inch trunks.

Implement considerations:
Grapple - I've already received some excellent advice regarding types of grapples and their uses. Thank you to all who have commented.

Rear blade vs box blade - Given how curvy and hilly my driveway is, I'm leaning toward a rear blade because it seems like it will better pull the gravel back onto the road, but I am open to suggestions.

Tooth bar - I'm certainly going to be doing some digging in this rocky ground, and also hoping to tear out some saplings and bushes. Based on videos and comments I have seen the Piranha toothbar seems excellent for this sort of thing, but perhaps traditional teeth attached to my bucket is better.

Weights - I plan to get my rear tires filled, and will likely keep the rear blade on for additional rear weight......Not sure if I want to also get wheel weights or a ballast box.

Any comments or suggestions are very welcome. Thank you.

Forks. I've seen guys do some amazing things with forks. Unbelievable. Takes skill, though and I don't have it -- Yet.

But the things you can do with forks is incredible.

Box Blade. Indispensable. Yes, a Land Plane is more gooder for some things; a BB can do everything a LP can do but a LP can't do everything a BB can do. A Land Plane is nice. Real nice. But if you have to make a decision between the two, get the BB. Just my opinion and you know what they say about those.

Grapple. Amazing the things they can do. I have an EA grapple and love it so far. Maybe the install is easier on your L2501 but, if you don't drink, you will when you get done putting it on if it's like mine. I learned things about my Tractor I really didn't want to know. Still don't.

Think about putting ruts in your 'lawn' - if you have one. The L2501 isn't light to start with and if you're gonna use it as a Utility/Homeowner Tractor and drive it all over the place, you may very well put ruts in your lawn when it's wet or even damp. Ruts suck. And they're really hard to get rid of. Rollers don't do all that well with them. And sometimes, you're putting more ruts in your lawn than you're removing if you're too heavy.

Every place, every farm, every person is different, I can only opine on what I know and I have my place in Michigan. Totally different from what you're doing.

You'll be fine. Just go for it

 

[alexpops]

Forks. I've seen guys do some amazing things with forks. Unbelievable. Takes skill, though and I don't have it -- Yet.

Got to agree on the pallet forks. Amazed how often I use mine, even with a grapple and bucket. I even use it for pallets. If you're already plumbing the Hydraulics for a grapple, you can add a hydraulic thumb to the forks as well & have a good light grapple for bulky brush. Good BB and a decent rough mower of some sort (flail or rotary) to knock down light brush/tall grass & clear shooting lanes (I thought you said this was a hunting property), & keep from having to do "heavy" clearing again every few years. Maybe a small tiller or plow/harrow if you plan on putting in food plots. A 3 pt carry all. Based on your description, you'll be needing to haul chainsaws/fuel/bar lube/axes/chains/etc. for at least the initial clearing. (granted, everything is BIGGER in TX, but 16 inch trunk diameter is more than sapling to me) Lots easier with a carry all or bucket than in a grapple or forks. Same goes for that 5 gallons of extra fuel & drink cooler you'll want if you're off a ways from the truck/barn in TX heat. Finally, if you plan on doing any fencing/gating, a 3 pt. PHD

 

[ScottHam]

Thank you for all of your helpful comments. I am happy to let you know that I pulled the trigger on a Kubota L3560LE HST 4WD with the LA805 loader and R4 tires! My dealer needs a few weeks for the R4 tires to arrive, and to install the 3rd function valve and rear remote. I'm definitely getting a box blade and grapple to start (and probably forks), although I am still deciding which brand/size.

Armstrong Ag here in Texas seem to have high-quality grapples and box blades that I can just pick up without dealing with shipping/waiting issues.....their grapple is a bit heavy at 440 lbs, but with the LA805 loader's 1,715lb lift capacity I do not anticipate the extra couple hundred pounds over an EA or Landpride to be an issue for my brush-clearing plans. I'm thinking a 6' box blade, although that may be a little oversized for a 35hp tractor that is 60" wide.

Thanks again for the advice.

 

[TMGT]

Go for the 6ft box blade, it will actually cover your tires, the actual width outside to outside of the rear tires will be around 70in for R4's at their narrowest setting.

I have a L3240 with a heavy 78" box blade and with fluid filled r4's it pulls it just fine.

Sent from my SM-G715U1 using TractorByNet mobile app

 

[ScottHam]

Go for the 6ft box blade, it will actually cover your tires, the actual width outside to outside of the rear tires will be around 70in for R4's at their narrowest setting.

I have a L3240 with a heavy 78" box blade and with fluid filled r4's it pulls it just fine.

Sent from my SM-G715U1 using TractorByNet mobile app

Thank you!

 

[Ledgemere Farm]

Here is another question in connection with my upcoming purchase of a Kubota 2501HST with FEL and 3rd function valve. I'm planning for R4 tires and rear wheel spacers. The primary intended use for my tractor is brush clearing and road maintenance. My property here in the Texas hill country is rocky and hilly, and my half-mile driveway is narrow and curvy and fairly steep in some places. The steep places are paved, and the rest is caliche/gravel/dirt. The brush consists of juniper/cedar bushes/trees including little saplings up to ~16-inch trunks.

Implement considerations:
Grapple - I've already received some excellent advice regarding types of grapples and their uses. Thank you to all who have commented.

Rear blade vs box blade - Given how curvy and hilly my driveway is, I'm leaning toward a rear blade because it seems like it will better pull the gravel back onto the road, but I am open to suggestions.

Tooth bar - I'm certainly going to be doing some digging in this rocky ground, and also hoping to tear out some saplings and bushes. Based on videos and comments I have seen the Piranha toothbar seems excellent for this sort of thing, but perhaps traditional teeth attached to my bucket is better.

Weights - I plan to get my rear tires filled, and will likely keep the rear blade on for additional rear weight......Not sure if I want to also get wheel weights or a ballast box.

Any comments or suggestions are very welcome. Thank you.

Definitely get your tires loaded, it’s well worth the money. A grader blade is a good investment as would be a set of forks. Make sure that you look carefully at the available tractor options and buy whatever you think you’ll want now since once the tractors change models, you may find that you have to go to the parts department to find it. Case in point: a remote valve-you can buy it now as a complete kit, or later in pieces . I liked the telescopic draft link things instead of turnbuckles. Good luck

 

[jeff9366]

I am happy to let you know that I pulled the trigger on a Kubota L3560LE HST 4WD with the LA805 loader and R4 tires!

CONGRATULATIONS!!


L3560 R4 tire spread, outside-to-outside, is 62" with narrowest wheel spread.

If you go with one of the heaviest 60" box blade available (650 pounds)
air inflated tires will serve you well. (Consider air rather than liquid if you will cross residential lawns.)

If you go with a heavy 72" box blade (700 pounds) you MAY wish to opt for "loaded" rear tires for enhanced traction as your box blade payload will be potentially heavier.

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[Yander]

Congrats, I think you are wise to get the bigger tractor.

If you are going to be doing grapple work, get the tires loaded and I agree with getting the 72" box blade, Your tractor will handle it fine.

 

[TMGT]

CONGRATULATIONS!!


L3560 R4 tire spread, outside-to-outside, is 62" with narrowest wheel spread.

If you go with one of the heaviest 60" box blade available (650 pounds)
air inflated tires will serve you well. (Consider air rather than liquid if you will cross residential lawns.)

If you go with a heavy 72" box blade (700 pounds) you MAY wish to opt for "loaded" rear tires for enhanced traction as your box blade payload will be potentially heavier.

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Can you show me where the outside to outside on the R4 is 62in, because the narrowest I've been able to get was 70in
(Real life, not copy and pasting tractordata).

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[jeff9366]

My 2012 L3560, just sold, had 62" R4 rear tire width.

(Real life, not copy and pasting tractordata).​

The Bush Hog (brand) rollover Box Blade pictured in Post #32 is 60"/64" wide. You can see the box blade is just a mite wider than the tires because the 64" overall box blade width is slightly wider than the 60" operating width.

Your L3560 Operator's Manual will show the wheel position and hub position required for 62" rear tire width. You must have both wheels and hubs oriented appropriately. Adjustable rear wheel hubs are uncommon on compact-category tractors

 

[Raul-02]

Implement considerations:
Grapple - I've already received some excellent advice regarding types of grapples and their uses. Thank you to all who have commented.
Get the Grapple it may be the most useful attachment you will ever own

Rear blade vs box blade - Given how curvy and hilly my driveway is, I'm leaning toward a rear blade because it seems like it will better pull the gravel back onto the road, but I am open to suggestions.

I Don't have one wouldn't have a use for one. but you might consider a land plane for the unpaved driveway

Tooth bar - I'm certainly going to be doing some digging in this rocky ground,

With a 20 horse tractor you won't be doing much digging in compacted or stony ground.

and also hoping to tear out some saplings and bushes.

I use my grapple for that Works best if I use a ripper around the bush first if it's well established. your bucket won't do that very well - at least mine doesn't and I have a heavier 47HP tractor

Based on videos and comments I have seen the Piranha toothbar seems excellent for this sort of thing, but perhaps traditional teeth attached to my bucket is better.
When I want to dig I use the ripper and or a tiller first. Tractors dig into broken soil just fine. Compacted soil is a real challenge. I won't even bother trying.

Weights - I plan to get my rear tires filled, and will likely keep the rear blade on for additional rear weight......Not sure if I want to also get wheel weights or a ballast box.

There are lots of really great home made concrete weight systems on line and in this forum. Some incorporate tool boxes, rake and shovel holders, even chainsaw holders. I'd go that route before I paid for weight.

 

[TMGT]

My 2012 L3560, just sold, had 62" R4 rear tire width.

(Real life, not copy and pasting tractordata).​

The Bush Hog (brand) rollover Box Blade pictured in Post #32 is 60"/64" wide. You can see the box blade is just a mite wider than the tires because the 64" overall box blade width is slightly wider than the 60" operating width.

I believe your L3560 Operator's Manual will show the wheel position and hub position required for 62" rear tire width. You must have both wheels and hubs oriented appropriately. Adjustable rear wheel hubs are uncommon on compact-category tractors

Any pictures of how yours was configured, all the manuals give are track width not overall width.

Here's my L3240 which uses the same tires, wheels and rear axle as the L3560.

As you can see the fenders prevent going any narrower and the outside width is 70in.

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[jeff9366]

The L3560 Operator's Manual, which went to the new owner of my L3560 tractor, contains diagrams showing wheel and hub orientation for each of four wheel/tire spreads with R4 tires.

With the ground level fueling introduced with the /60 models the wheel components and possibly undercarriage components MAY be distinct from the /40 models. I do not know this; just speculating.

​

 

[TMGT]

The L3560 Operator's Manual, which went to the new owner of my L3560 tractor, contains diagrams showing wheel and hub orientation for each of four wheel/tire spreads with R4 tires.

With the ground level fueling introduced with the /60 models the wheel components and possibly undercarriage components MAY be distinct from the /40 models. I do not know this; just speculating.

Any regret, now, for typing this rather snide line?
(Real life, not copy and pasting tractordata).​

Yes I'm familiar with the wheel setup diagrams for both the L3560 and L3240, neither show overall width.

That's why I asked you if you could show me how yours was set up since there doesn't appear to be any way to get narrower then 70in with the R4's from my experiences.

Sorry I upset you, but I just wanted actual examples rather then copies from tractor data as it doesn't have the relevant information.



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[jeff9366]

JULY 22, 2019​

The cab on a Kubota L3560 will add about 700 pounds, with most of the weight over the rear tires.
That is enough. I would inflate rear tires with air, the simplest option.

Maintaining traction is usually only an issue with ground engagement work. The only moderately demanding ground engagement work you foresee is pulling a LPGS. The 700 pound cab will put sufficient weight on the rear tires to maintain traction driven by modest 37-horsepower.

The rear R4 tires on the Grand Ls are, unusually, on two part wheels. L3560 rear wheels/tires can be spread to any of three width increments: 52.2", 53.5" or 57.7" tread width. Tread width is from CENTER of one rear tire to CENTER of other rear tire. Tread width is published because tire suppliers change tire configurations but tread width is always tread width.

Spreading the rear wheel/tire stance increases tractor stability more than any other individual option. Consider rear wheel spread first.

My L3560 with R4/industrial tires set at 52.2" tread width has an outside-to-outside tire width of 62". Tire marks in soil are about 59", outside to outside. Buy a 10' stick of 1-1/4" PVC pipe. Cut pipe at max tire width. Mark narrower widths on pipe. Walk around your land, comparing pipe to tree spreads, gates, etc.


My OPEN STATION L3560 with R4 tires inflated with air pulls a 620 pound 60"/64" Rollover Box Blade, full of dirt, uphill, fine. Don't fill the rear tires with liquid; with a cab the additional tire weight is pointless.