5030
Epic Contributor
- Joined
- Feb 21, 2003
- Messages
- 24,629
- Location
- SE Michigan in the middle of nowhere
- Tractor
- Kubota M9000 HDCC3 M9000 HDC
Rule of thumb with any flaring tool, single flare, double flare or double bubble (European flare) is the stickout of the tubing above the tubing vise is no mare than the machined in shoulder on the flaring die button and all die buttons will have that machined in shoulder for reference.
Like I stated earlier, stickout is usually the diameter of the tubing being flared.
One thing to always keep in mind no matter what the tubing material is made of (steel or Nickle Copper alloy) is when you cut the end of the tubing prior to flaring it, IT MUST BE CUT SQUARE TO THE CLAMP or when you flare it, it will flare crooked. Why I don't use a tubing cutter (my Ridge flaring tool came with a nice tubing cutter, I never use). I always use a thin kerf cut off wheel in my cordless 20 volt 4.5" angle grinder to cut the tubing and I 'ream' the end of the tubing with a twist drill to remove any burr and clean the OD of any burrs as well. Finally, no matter what tubing material you flare, clean the tubing with brake cleaner to remove any oil or contaminants. Any oil or contaminants will cause the tubing to slip in the tubing vise as you flare it.
My preference is of course Ni-Cop because once it's done, it will last the life of the vehicle, unlike hard to deal with steel lines that will corrode and leak eventually.
Like I stated earlier, stickout is usually the diameter of the tubing being flared.
One thing to always keep in mind no matter what the tubing material is made of (steel or Nickle Copper alloy) is when you cut the end of the tubing prior to flaring it, IT MUST BE CUT SQUARE TO THE CLAMP or when you flare it, it will flare crooked. Why I don't use a tubing cutter (my Ridge flaring tool came with a nice tubing cutter, I never use). I always use a thin kerf cut off wheel in my cordless 20 volt 4.5" angle grinder to cut the tubing and I 'ream' the end of the tubing with a twist drill to remove any burr and clean the OD of any burrs as well. Finally, no matter what tubing material you flare, clean the tubing with brake cleaner to remove any oil or contaminants. Any oil or contaminants will cause the tubing to slip in the tubing vise as you flare it.
My preference is of course Ni-Cop because once it's done, it will last the life of the vehicle, unlike hard to deal with steel lines that will corrode and leak eventually.