Brake line flaring tool?

[5030]

Rule of thumb with any flaring tool, single flare, double flare or double bubble (European flare) is the stickout of the tubing above the tubing vise is no mare than the machined in shoulder on the flaring die button and all die buttons will have that machined in shoulder for reference.

Like I stated earlier, stickout is usually the diameter of the tubing being flared.

One thing to always keep in mind no matter what the tubing material is made of (steel or Nickle Copper alloy) is when you cut the end of the tubing prior to flaring it, IT MUST BE CUT SQUARE TO THE CLAMP or when you flare it, it will flare crooked. Why I don't use a tubing cutter (my Ridge flaring tool came with a nice tubing cutter, I never use). I always use a thin kerf cut off wheel in my cordless 20 volt 4.5" angle grinder to cut the tubing and I 'ream' the end of the tubing with a twist drill to remove any burr and clean the OD of any burrs as well. Finally, no matter what tubing material you flare, clean the tubing with brake cleaner to remove any oil or contaminants. Any oil or contaminants will cause the tubing to slip in the tubing vise as you flare it.

My preference is of course Ni-Cop because once it's done, it will last the life of the vehicle, unlike hard to deal with steel lines that will corrode and leak eventually.

 

[5030]

I've owned several different complete hand-flaring sets - including two different Snap-On & Matco sets. My conclusion is that it seems to be an area of tooling that hasn't had much attention or innovation.

But by simply buying half a dozen kits and returning the junk ones I did find one happy exception.

There is a company that makes good flaring tools. The company is Mastercool and they use a different and far better way to make a flare. Amazon carries the entire line. This is what the pros use.
I bought the least expensive kit that uses their "Eccentric Flaring" process. Part number is PART#70058-A, and was right around $100. Heavily built, ball bearing action, and uses that eccentric wiping action to make a smooth flare. They make all sorts of kits, but that one worked for me.

The complete kit is what to get as it includes their matched tools that are all excellent quality. If you haven't used an eccentric type flaring tool before you'll need to make a couple of practice flares before you believe how easy it is to make good ones.

rScotty

I'm good with my Rigid Scotty. I have the OTC as well for double Bubble(European) flares.

 

[rScotty]

I'm good with my Rigid Scotty. I have the OTC as well for double Bubble(European) flares.

Well, all I can say is I used the same ol traight plunger type flaring tool for nearly 60 years. Got pretty good with it, too. Then I discovered the eccentric type forming tool and was amazed at the difference.

Here's my point - we learn and grow. If there is one new way - like the Mastercool series - that is so much better than the old plunger type I grew up with.... then maybe there are others even better yet.

But in every flare I've ever made the difference is in how much attention is put into the prep before making the flare. Others said it and so will I, you just can't over emphasize how important the setup is. If the job is a one shot deal that has to be right, the end needs to be cut perfectly square and then carefully prepared - by your own favorite method - into a perfectly flat perpendicular surface without any trace of irregularities or burrs inside or out.
The stickout has to be perfect and different for size pipe, and every set of press and dies is a little different, too. I make some tests on scrap before making the final flare. Depending on the flare and material I might use a bit of the right lube on the forming surface.

Yes, I know that other mechanics consider my methods excessive and time consuming. I make up for it by enjoying the work and watching it work right the first time. Just having something work right from the start pays back all the extra time in doing it.

rScotty

 

[5030]

The Mastercool hydraulic flare set is very expensive, like 350 clams on Flea Bay and I may buy one just to have it. I like good tools, makes my repair jobs easier.

Like you say and I maintain, when flaring brake or fuel lines, everything is in the prep to achieve a good flare. I believe people get poor ones when they don't do the proper before flare prep.

Paramount is proper stickout and square (to the tool) cut.

My Ridge works just fine for me but there was a learning curve involved. Always good to practice on a scrap piece before hand.

Why I never use a tubing cutter. Every tubing cutter will off track a bit and that results in a lopsided cut.

 

[kentrodngun]

I'd had a few but have been happiest with my Eastwood On Car Flaring Tool for 3/16 Tubing

 

[jonsstihl]

I am curious as to why a tubing cutter would not be appropriate. It is what I used when I had to flare rear brake lines on my V-35 square body one ton. The line was smaller but the conclusion I came to after countless practice flares was that my rigid yoke was bad but the rigid biscuits were good. I ended up buying the rigid and a cheap tool and by using the cheap tools yoke and the rigids biscuits I was able to get repeated good flares but with the rigid yoke it just wasn't happening. i couldn't get the cheap tool to work either, I really needed to combine the two tools to get them to work.

I agreed prep was more important. I did try to contact Rigid years ago but I bought it online so they weren't any real help. I have found a new tool store that carries rigid so I may try again with them.

 

[5030]

I am curious as to why a tubing cutter would not be appropriate.

Tubing cutters by their very nature (rotating hardened cutter wheel) tend to off track a bit, depending on the slop between the cutter wheel axle and the wheel itself and the very action of cutting (pressure on the tubing OD tends to compress it, especially Ni-Cop tubing which is much softer than steel. I just find using a thin kerf cut off wheel, especially in a tight spot to be easier and quicker myself.

You might want to Goggle up Ridge Tool Company and give them a shot on warranty. I'm pretty sure they have a .com or .net website.

 

[Bob Rooks]

I will say that none of the other flaring tools can consistently make perfect double or bubble flares every time like this one. I have it, and haven't used the other ones since I bought it several years ago.

Eastwood Pro Brake Tubing Flaring Tool with 45 and 37 Degree Die Set

Create 45 and 37 Degree flares in 5 sizes of tubing

www.eastwood.com

Cheaper non-Eastwood version for 45 degree flares only.

Brake Flaring Tool 45 Degree

DetailsFeatures and Benefits:Easily form 45-degree double, single and bubble flares in OE steel, stainless steel, and soft metal tubingUse with 3/16", 1/4", 5/16" and 3/8" diameter linesAll the brake-flaring forming dies are mounted right on the turretT-handle screw clamp securely holds line in...

www.tooltopia.com

 

[5030]

Way too big and bulky to use on a vehicle. I like their inflated prices for the same exact tools (line forming pliers and jaw type tools) that HF sells everyday for a lot less.

In fact the Mastercool set is too big as well.

 

[5030]

FYI, I jumped on Ridge Tool's website and checked their warranty. It's lifetime with free replacement for defective parts.

 

[Bob Rooks]

Way too big and bulky to use on a vehicle. I like their inflated prices for the same exact tools (line forming pliers and jaw type tools) that HF sells everyday for a lot less.

In fact the Mastercool set is too big as well.

True to some extent. Seriously? Read that they aren't designed to be used on a vehicle. They aren't for everybody, especially for those that want to fumble along making modifications with cheap tools. See post #25 - Eastwood makes one for on-vehicle flares. Have some more coffee.
I have a pair of HF line forming pliers, do you? Have you used them?

 

[LouNY]

The main reason NOT to use a tubing cutter is that by the action of a rolling cutting wheel it will actually work harden the cut edge of the tubing, then it will split when being flared.

 

[5030]

True to some extent. Seriously? Read that they aren't designed to be used on a vehicle. They aren't for everybody, especially for those that want to fumble along making modifications with cheap tools. See post #25 - Eastwood makes one for on-vehicle flares. Have some more coffee.
I have a pair of HF line forming pliers, do you? Have you used them?

Yes and yes... I actually have the OTC roll over forming tool as well. I don't drink coffee, only water and Power Ade, thank you. I do 99% of my Ni-Cop replacement on vehicle and have for years. A bench tool is of no use to me. I have zero issues with my Ridge tool or my OTC double Bubble flare tool anyway. IO do like their deburring tool but a twist drill in a hand chuck (Jacobs chuck in a wooden file handle) works fine and I use an RCBS bullet case deburring tool to deburr the OD's after cutting the tubing with a thin kerf cut off wheel. A tool of many uses besides deburring the necks on cartridge cases...

 

[5030]

The main reason NOT to use a tubing cutter is that by the action of a rolling cutting wheel it will actually work harden the cut edge of the tubing, then it will split when being flared.

Never considered that, probably because I don't anyway. Good point Lou...

 

[Bob Rooks]

The main reason NOT to use a tubing cutter is that by the action of a rolling cutting wheel it will actually work harden the cut edge of the tubing, then it will split when being flared.

That has never happened to me in 65 years, but then I use quality tubing.

 

[blee03]

Update: It was a cluster, and thanks to everyone who replied in this thread!

So I purchased this Ni-cop, and I would strongly discourage anyone from buying this exact brand of Ni-cop or any cheap Ni-cop in general. (This was $70 so it wasn't cheap but the quality must have been off)

Link to O'Reilly's Ni-cop --> https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/...rake-line/ags2/cnc325?q=25ft+brake+line&pos=1

I got the Ni-cop, formed my line, then I cut off a few small pieces of the main roll to do some practice double flares on. I made 4, taking my time but all of them had a deformed exterior on the flare.

So I made 2 test flares out of the previous steel brake line (BH2201317A) I tried to install. Both came out perfect, no problem

Made 3 more test flares with the Ni-cop, all garbage again.
I googled Ni-cop flaring problems for a bit and I found other people having the same experience when trying to flare cheap Ni-cop from Amazon.

Went to the Autozone and bought a 51" piece ($9) of steel brake line that had the correct fitting on one end, but the wrong fitting on the other. Cut the line, put on the correct fitting on it and flared it perfectly on the first try.

Since I used the same exact method to cut, prep and flare all the test flares I'm guessing either A) That brand of Ni-cop is garbage or B) The Titan 51535 3/16 flair tool does not play nice with Ni-Cop

The truck is finally back in business and O'Reilly's agreed to take back the Ni-cop and refund the purchase so I'm happy... but this was a long drawn out process, frustrating to say the least.

Here are my test flares out of Ni-cop and Steel.. what say ye?

1. Poor quality Ni-cop
2. Titan 51535 doesn't like Ni-Cop
3. The cutting and tube prep was bad before flaring (which is possible but I prepped all flares in the same exact manner)

For the record I did use a tubing cutter for all my flares, the good ones in steel and the bad ones in ni-cop

 

[rScotty]

The Mastercool hydraulic flare set is very expensive, like 350 clams on Flea Bay and I may buy one just to have it. I like good tools, makes my repair jobs easier.

Like you say and I maintain, when flaring brake or fuel lines, everything is in the prep to achieve a good flare. I believe people get poor ones when they don't do the proper before flare prep.

Paramount is proper stickout and square (to the tool) cut.

My Ridge works just fine for me but there was a learning curve involved. Always good to practice on a scrap piece before hand.

Why I never use a tubing cutter. Every tubing cutter will off track a bit and that results in a lopsided cut.

I hear that. But try the $90.00 version for gas lines and general automotive work first to see if you like the eccentric wiping technique of forming a flare. It might not work for all apps.

If anyone ever uses that eccentric type flare tool such as Mastercool sells, let me know if you like it. It was a new trick for this old dog and all I can say for how long it took me to get there was 1. not even knowing they existed, and 2. the $90.00 price slowed me down.

But then I haven't done much flaring work lately.... Maybe the eccentric is now common and the straight plunger is the old fashioned flare tool that old timers use. Or maybe something better has come along.

rScotty

 

[Bob Rooks]

Wtf is Ni-cop? Is this some convoluted esoteric vernacular term someone made up because they didn't know the correct term for Cupronickel (copper-nickel)? The correct term is CuNi where copper is the main alloy and nickel is the main constituent, not the other way around.
No, I don't need to get a life. I like correcting misinformation, informing ignorance, falsehoods, and old wife's tales.

You're welcome.

 

[Bob Rooks]

Update: It was a cluster, and thanks to everyone who replied in this thread!

So I purchased this Ni-cop, and I would strongly discourage anyone from buying this exact brand of Ni-cop or any cheap Ni-cop in general. (This was $70 so it wasn't cheap but the quality must have been off)

Link to O'Reilly's Ni-cop --> https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/...rake-line/ags2/cnc325?q=25ft+brake+line&pos=1

I got the Ni-cop, formed my line, then I cut off a few small pieces of the main roll to do some practice double flares on. I made 4, taking my time but all of them had a deformed exterior on the flare.

So I made 2 test flares out of the previous steel brake line (BH2201317A) I tried to install. Both came out perfect, no problem

Made 3 more test flares with the Ni-cop, all garbage again.
I googled Ni-cop flaring problems for a bit and I found other people having the same experience when trying to flare cheap Ni-cop from Amazon.

Went to the Autozone and bought a 51" piece ($9) of steel brake line that had the correct fitting on one end, but the wrong fitting on the other. Cut the line, put on the correct fitting on it and flared it perfectly on the first try.

Since I used the same exact method to cut, prep and flare all the test flares I'm guessing either A) That brand of Ni-cop is garbage or B) The Titan 51535 3/16 flair tool does not play nice with Ni-Cop

The truck is finally back in business and O'Reilly's agreed to take back the Ni-cop and refund the purchase so I'm happy... but this was a long drawn out process, frustrating to say the least.

Here are my test flares out of Ni-cop and Steel.. what say ye?

1. Poor quality Ni-cop
2. Titan 51535 doesn't like Ni-Cop
3. The cutting and tube prep was bad before flaring (which is possible but I prepped all flares in the same exact manner)

For the record I did use a tubing cutter for all my flares, the good ones in steel and the bad ones in ni-cop

You would not get those results with the Eastwood on-vehicle tool.

 

[5030]

Wtf is Ni-cop?

It's a brand name WTF...