Brake line flaring tool?

[Bob Rooks]

Way too big and bulky to use on a vehicle. I like their inflated prices for the same exact tools (line forming pliers and jaw type tools) that HF sells everyday for a lot less.

In fact the Mastercool set is too big as well.

True to some extent. Seriously? Read that they aren't designed to be used on a vehicle. They aren't for everybody, especially for those that want to fumble along making modifications with cheap tools. See post #25 - Eastwood makes one for on-vehicle flares. Have some more coffee.
I have a pair of HF line forming pliers, do you? Have you used them?

 

[LouNY]

The main reason NOT to use a tubing cutter is that by the action of a rolling cutting wheel it will actually work harden the cut edge of the tubing, then it will split when being flared.

 

[5030]

True to some extent. Seriously? Read that they aren't designed to be used on a vehicle. They aren't for everybody, especially for those that want to fumble along making modifications with cheap tools. See post #25 - Eastwood makes one for on-vehicle flares. Have some more coffee.
I have a pair of HF line forming pliers, do you? Have you used them?

Yes and yes... I actually have the OTC roll over forming tool as well. I don't drink coffee, only water and Power Ade, thank you. I do 99% of my Ni-Cop replacement on vehicle and have for years. A bench tool is of no use to me. I have zero issues with my Ridge tool or my OTC double Bubble flare tool anyway. IO do like their deburring tool but a twist drill in a hand chuck (Jacobs chuck in a wooden file handle) works fine and I use an RCBS bullet case deburring tool to deburr the OD's after cutting the tubing with a thin kerf cut off wheel. A tool of many uses besides deburring the necks on cartridge cases...

 

[5030]

The main reason NOT to use a tubing cutter is that by the action of a rolling cutting wheel it will actually work harden the cut edge of the tubing, then it will split when being flared.

Never considered that, probably because I don't anyway. Good point Lou...

 

[Bob Rooks]

The main reason NOT to use a tubing cutter is that by the action of a rolling cutting wheel it will actually work harden the cut edge of the tubing, then it will split when being flared.

That has never happened to me in 65 years, but then I use quality tubing.

 

[blee03]

Update: It was a cluster, and thanks to everyone who replied in this thread!

So I purchased this Ni-cop, and I would strongly discourage anyone from buying this exact brand of Ni-cop or any cheap Ni-cop in general. (This was $70 so it wasn't cheap but the quality must have been off)

Link to O'Reilly's Ni-cop --> https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/...rake-line/ags2/cnc325?q=25ft+brake+line&pos=1

I got the Ni-cop, formed my line, then I cut off a few small pieces of the main roll to do some practice double flares on. I made 4, taking my time but all of them had a deformed exterior on the flare.

So I made 2 test flares out of the previous steel brake line (BH2201317A) I tried to install. Both came out perfect, no problem

Made 3 more test flares with the Ni-cop, all garbage again.
I googled Ni-cop flaring problems for a bit and I found other people having the same experience when trying to flare cheap Ni-cop from Amazon.

Went to the Autozone and bought a 51" piece ($9) of steel brake line that had the correct fitting on one end, but the wrong fitting on the other. Cut the line, put on the correct fitting on it and flared it perfectly on the first try.

Since I used the same exact method to cut, prep and flare all the test flares I'm guessing either A) That brand of Ni-cop is garbage or B) The Titan 51535 3/16 flair tool does not play nice with Ni-Cop

The truck is finally back in business and O'Reilly's agreed to take back the Ni-cop and refund the purchase so I'm happy... but this was a long drawn out process, frustrating to say the least.

Here are my test flares out of Ni-cop and Steel.. what say ye?

1. Poor quality Ni-cop
2. Titan 51535 doesn't like Ni-Cop
3. The cutting and tube prep was bad before flaring (which is possible but I prepped all flares in the same exact manner)

For the record I did use a tubing cutter for all my flares, the good ones in steel and the bad ones in ni-cop

 

[rScotty]

The Mastercool hydraulic flare set is very expensive, like 350 clams on Flea Bay and I may buy one just to have it. I like good tools, makes my repair jobs easier.

Like you say and I maintain, when flaring brake or fuel lines, everything is in the prep to achieve a good flare. I believe people get poor ones when they don't do the proper before flare prep.

Paramount is proper stickout and square (to the tool) cut.

My Ridge works just fine for me but there was a learning curve involved. Always good to practice on a scrap piece before hand.

Why I never use a tubing cutter. Every tubing cutter will off track a bit and that results in a lopsided cut.

I hear that. But try the $90.00 version for gas lines and general automotive work first to see if you like the eccentric wiping technique of forming a flare. It might not work for all apps.

If anyone ever uses that eccentric type flare tool such as Mastercool sells, let me know if you like it. It was a new trick for this old dog and all I can say for how long it took me to get there was 1. not even knowing they existed, and 2. the $90.00 price slowed me down.

But then I haven't done much flaring work lately.... Maybe the eccentric is now common and the straight plunger is the old fashioned flare tool that old timers use. Or maybe something better has come along.

rScotty

 

[Bob Rooks]

Wtf is Ni-cop? Is this some convoluted esoteric vernacular term someone made up because they didn't know the correct term for Cupronickel (copper-nickel)? The correct term is CuNi where copper is the main alloy and nickel is the main constituent, not the other way around.
No, I don't need to get a life. I like correcting misinformation, informing ignorance, falsehoods, and old wife's tales.

You're welcome.

 

[Bob Rooks]

Update: It was a cluster, and thanks to everyone who replied in this thread!

So I purchased this Ni-cop, and I would strongly discourage anyone from buying this exact brand of Ni-cop or any cheap Ni-cop in general. (This was $70 so it wasn't cheap but the quality must have been off)

Link to O'Reilly's Ni-cop --> https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/...rake-line/ags2/cnc325?q=25ft+brake+line&pos=1

I got the Ni-cop, formed my line, then I cut off a few small pieces of the main roll to do some practice double flares on. I made 4, taking my time but all of them had a deformed exterior on the flare.

So I made 2 test flares out of the previous steel brake line (BH2201317A) I tried to install. Both came out perfect, no problem

Made 3 more test flares with the Ni-cop, all garbage again.
I googled Ni-cop flaring problems for a bit and I found other people having the same experience when trying to flare cheap Ni-cop from Amazon.

Went to the Autozone and bought a 51" piece ($9) of steel brake line that had the correct fitting on one end, but the wrong fitting on the other. Cut the line, put on the correct fitting on it and flared it perfectly on the first try.

Since I used the same exact method to cut, prep and flare all the test flares I'm guessing either A) That brand of Ni-cop is garbage or B) The Titan 51535 3/16 flair tool does not play nice with Ni-Cop

The truck is finally back in business and O'Reilly's agreed to take back the Ni-cop and refund the purchase so I'm happy... but this was a long drawn out process, frustrating to say the least.

Here are my test flares out of Ni-cop and Steel.. what say ye?

1. Poor quality Ni-cop
2. Titan 51535 doesn't like Ni-Cop
3. The cutting and tube prep was bad before flaring (which is possible but I prepped all flares in the same exact manner)

For the record I did use a tubing cutter for all my flares, the good ones in steel and the bad ones in ni-cop

You would not get those results with the Eastwood on-vehicle tool.

 

[5030]

Wtf is Ni-cop?

It's a brand name WTF...