Runs nice and dies in 20 min UPDATE UPDATE

   / Runs nice and dies in 20 min UPDATE UPDATE
  • Thread Starter
#51  
Oh my, yes very possible because a brand new battery went in prior to this mess but it was fine for quite a while. I will def monitor battery voltage. Typically if I let it sit for an hour it will start up fine and run smoothly until it is warmed up (per temp gauge) at which point is slowly loses power. As noted once a while ago if it warms up at 1,000rpm it could take 40 min and then it starts dying. If it warms up in 10min at 2,500 rpm the same thing happens just sooner. That’s why I think weirdly enuf it could be engine temp related as kooky as that sounds…. Thanks for the input

Battery voltage remained at 14.64v thruout the die down. I’m convinced it is related to engine temp somehow…something is getting too hot and responding negatively (pun intended)

Danica
 
   / Runs nice and dies in 20 min UPDATE UPDATE #52  
I’ll go to Napa…
Here is the thread I started back in April. There may be more info in there you could use that I didn't mention earlier. It's a fairly long thread with many good suggestions.

1999? I'd definitely replace all of those fuel lines before going any further.


Good luck!
Ng
 
   / Runs nice and dies in 20 min UPDATE UPDATE #53  
Read thru all posts. I was leaning toward fuel but I think you exhausted all fuel issues (minus replacing all fuel lines). I don't think they are collapsing or sucking air or tractor would run crummy bit not just shut down. A '99 would have a Low Oil Pressure shutdown. Wondering if that switch is seeing a false 'low pressure' when engine oil heats up and viscosity changes.
 
   / Runs nice and dies in 20 min UPDATE UPDATE #54  
Read thru all posts. I was leaning toward fuel but I think you exhausted all fuel issues (minus replacing all fuel lines). I don't think they are collapsing or sucking air or tractor would run crummy bit not just shut down. A '99 would have a Low Oil Pressure shutdown. Wondering if that switch is seeing a false 'low pressure' when engine oil heats up and viscosity changes.
One would think that porous fuel lines would not cause the symptom the OP is experiencing, but it can and did with my situation.
Having a "Mushy" fuel line, regardless of where it is on the tractor, tells me these lines should be replaced before doing anything else.

I am not a New Holland/Ford 1920 owner so I may stand corrected, but fuel lines are fuel lines, defective from the factory or just old.
Replacing the fuel lines is good solid advice and can be done relatively cheaply and easily unless you have a Mahindra 5035, which required removing the rear wheel for me to get my somewhat large hands in there to do the swap.
Changing the fuel lines before doing any of the other recommended procedures such as draining the tank and inspecting same with a borescope saved me a lot of needless troubleshooting on a fairly new tractor, as noted in my post back in April.

If I read your response correctly, the OP has not replaced the fuel lines yet. Hopefully, this will be an easy repair that will resolve the problem. I may be all wet on this but I thought it was share-worthy as my tractor was behaving the exact same way... no sputter or rough running, just stopped. It would restart after sitting for 20 minutes, or I could force fuel into the system manually using the primer pump on top of the fuel filter housing.

If this doesn't resolve the problem, it was certainly time well spent considering the age of the existing lines.

Ng
wheel off 2.jpg


wheel off.jpg
 
   / Runs nice and dies in 20 min UPDATE UPDATE #55  
In that first picture, the top right rubber hose looks to be completely perished [cracked and swelled]. You definitely should replace all those hoses and vacuum lines.
 
   / Runs nice and dies in 20 min UPDATE UPDATE #56  
Check for a voltage drop to the fuel shutoff solenoid = Battery voltage when stopping/stalls
 
   / Runs nice and dies in 20 min UPDATE UPDATE
  • Thread Starter
#57  
Well you proved it's not a tank strainer clog! Your symptoms all point to a fuel delivery restriction. Have you checked the fuel filter discharge hose.? Do you have continuous full flow at the filter discharge? There could be a blockage in the fuel filter head that limits fuel through the filter.
When the tractor stopped and you pulled the hose to the fuel filter, was the filter fuel bowl full of fuel? when you changed the fuel filter did you bleed the filter? Are you sure the gasket in the filter is installed correctly and that you have the correct filter?

Describe the fuel delivery system? Does the fuel leave the tank, pass through the fuel filter, flow into a lift pump and the pass into the injector pump?

If you have a lift pump, have you checked it by removing the outlet line and cranking the engine (mechanical pump) or just turning the key on (electric pump). If you have this pump, when you test it, it should spew fuel like a cow peein' on a flat rock! If you don't have a lift pump, forget this test.

I would also try bleeding at the injectors. At this point, you have nothing to lose by trying this.

Do these checks in the order i have described and report back. Good Luck.


Thank you! And my oh my taking that wheel off must’ve been fun. Yikes. Yes I will go to Napa and replace them all.
Danica
 
   / Runs nice and dies in 20 min UPDATE UPDATE
  • Thread Starter
#58  
In that first picture, the top right rubber hose looks to be completely perished [cracked and swelled]. You definitely should replace all those hoses and vacuum lines.

Ok, I believe you’re probably right…the one going back into the tank was literally decaying.

Thanks again,
Danica
 
   / Runs nice and dies in 20 min UPDATE UPDATE #59  
I'm new to tractor use, but the only foreign car that I ever owned used to give me fits. After I would get home from work (an hour drive), stop for five minutes, then run back out, I would only get 1/4 mile from the house and it would die. Still under warranty, during the fourth trip to the dealership, after replacing just about anything that bolts on, someone found that the flexible hose in the fuel tank would warm/soften up while running for a while then collapse when I shut it off stopping pressure from the pump. When I ran back out, I was using the remaining fuel in the line to get the 1/4 mile.
Again, I'm not familiar with your tractor, but it's diffidently the fuel supply.
Good Luck
 
   / Runs nice and dies in 20 min UPDATE UPDATE #60  
Ok, I believe you’re probably right…the one going back into the tank was literally decaying.

Thanks again,
Danica

I just went back to that very first photo that you posted and those hoses really are in terrible condition. I wonder how we all missed that? But we did. Ordinarily I look at hoses only to see if they are leakers or not, but I have once or twice had hoses that collapsed and blocked flow. Just didn't expect to see that much aging on those hoses on a tractor that is not that old.

But there they are. The one hose going up has obvious cracks in the surface and the other one is one of those braided cover hoses that were always "iffy" - and of the sort with fiber reinforcing braid that I haven't seen in decades. The fiber braid is an obvious leak path. At least it does have one of the continuous pressure type hose clamps, and that's good because as a hose ages and hardens any kind of continuous pressure clamp works better than the worm drive clamps.

It still strikes me as odd about those age-cracks in both hoses. Especially with diesel fuel which just isn't that hard on elastomers.
It is normal for rapid aging and cracking to happen in older gas engine hoses when an older hose begins to see gasoline with alcohol in it. And we do know that some diesel additives contain substantial alcohol. I wonder if using certain diesel additives and long storage could be the cause of that premature rubber hose cracking?

Hint, occasionally for a gas engine like our mower or pressure washer I won't be able to find the right size fuel hose for a fitting - or maybe I just want to be able to use a semi-transparent hose. I've had good luck using model airplane fuel line. It's impervious to just about every chemical, flexible, and available in surprisingly large diameters.
YMMV,
rScotty
 
 
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