L5030 will not start with key

[jayhawk238]

About four days ago I parked my tractor and yesterday I went to start it and it would not start. There was no clicking, no attempt to turn over no nothing. Everything else is working fine. All dash lights, head and tail lights, radio, heater fan, etc. The battery is only about 4 months old and fully charged. There is power going to the starter but no power going to the solenoid. I checked all fuses, including the slow fuses none were blown. A auto mechanic friend came over and we tried the hot wire trick. The engine turned over very fast and strong but would not fire off. Our thinking is that the hot wire is maybe bypassing the fuel (system) pump. That is just a guess! The dash lights say the glow plugs are working. The seat switch is working as far as we can tell and the PTO is turned off. I was blowing snow four days ago and turned off the PTO, backed into the tractor shed and shut down the tractor.
Any and all help is needed. It's suppose to start snowing Thursday night and snow for several days.

 

[ovrszd]

I'm going with a safety switch. The tractor "thinks" it's in gear, or the clutch isn't depressed or no one is in the seat, for examples.

Have you tried all the KISS principle things? Not sure what restrictions are on your starting system? Does the trans/range lever have to be in neutral? Is it HST? If so the pedals would have to be in neutral? PTO turned off? Seat switch? Do a personal mental check of all those things.

Aren't these things frustrating.....

 

[JWR]

Does that Kubota have a knob you pullout to shut off the engine if need be ? [Some of my Kubotas do and at least one does not.] If so, you may want to cycle that knob in and out and then firmly in (if that is the 'run' position and it probably is.) Too easy... but maybe you bumped or caught your coat on it or ??? and somehow pulled the knob out some?

 

[Tx Jim]

If not already performed I suggest to remove/clean/tighten all four(4) battery cable connections.

 

[jayhawk238]

I'm going with a safety switch. The tractor "thinks" it's in gear, or the clutch isn't depressed or no one is in the seat, for examples.

Have you tried all the KISS principle things? Not sure what restrictions are on your starting system? Does the trans/range lever have to be in neutral? Is it HST? If so the pedals would have to be in neutral? PTO turned off? Seat switch? Do a personal mental check of all those things.

Aren't these things frustrating..... I'm going to hunt down the safety switches today.

More than just frustrating!!!

 

[jayhawk238]

Does that Kubota have a knob you pullout to shut off the engine if need be ? [Some of my Kubotas do and at least one does not.] If so, you may want to cycle that knob in and out and then firmly in (if that is the 'run' position and it probably is.) Too easy... but maybe you bumped or caught your coat on it or ??? and somehow pulled the knob out some?

My tractor does not have that knob. But thanks for your reply.

 

[NoTrespassing]

Agree on safety switch.

 

[jayhawk238]

If not already performed I suggest to remove/clean/tighten all four(4) battery cable connections.

That was one of the first things I did and the battery is only 4 months or so old.

 

[rScotty]

About four days ago I parked my tractor and yesterday I went to start it and it would not start. There was no clicking, no attempt to turn over no nothing. Everything else is working fine. All dash lights, head and tail lights, radio, heater fan, etc. The battery is only about 4 months old and fully charged. There is power going to the starter but no power going to the solenoid. I checked all fuses, including the slow fuses none were blown. A auto mechanic friend came over and we tried the hot wire trick. The engine turned over very fast and strong but would not fire off. Our thinking is that the hot wire is maybe bypassing the fuel (system) pump. That is just a guess! The dash lights say the glow plugs are working. The seat switch is working as far as we can tell and the PTO is turned off. I was blowing snow four days ago and turned off the PTO, backed into the tractor shed and shut down the tractor.
Any and all help is needed. It's suppose to start snowing Thursday night and snow for several days.

When you say, " There is power going to the starter but no power goinjg to the solenoid" I don't understand this sentence, and it's probably going to confuse other electrical guys, too. "

A solenoid is just an on/off switch powered by electricity instead of a manual knob or lever. The key switch sends voltage to the starter solenoid which then sends full power on to the starter motor and it cranks the engine.

So power to the starter has to get there by going through the starter solenoid. There isn't any power to the starter motor until the solenoid sends power there. There is always power to one side of the starter solenoid - which is usually mounted on or next to the starter. When the key switch activates the starter solenoid switch it closes (with a click) and sends cranking power on to the starter motor. That cranks the engine. It may not start, but it will crank over i.e. turn over normally. If it doesn't crank, there is your problem .... either the key switch, the starter solenoid, or the starter motor is not getting voltage, and in that order.

There is another solenoid on some models that opens the fuel flow from the tank to the fuel pump. If your tractor cranks normally but doesn't start you need to check that one too.

My guess is it is a safety switch. Mine has two on the drivers seat, one on the clutch pedal, and one on the PTO.
A bad battery cable or connector to battery or frame will also allow all the electrics to work EXCEPT the starter motor.
That is very common, and if you have a new battery that probably means the cables and connectors need renewing too.
rScotty

 

[Gator6x4]

When you say, " There is power going to the starter but no power goinjg to the solenoid" I don't understand this sentence, and it's probably going to confuse other electrical guys, too. "

A solenoid is just an on/off switch powered by electricity instead of a manual knob or lever. The key switch sends voltage to the starter solenoid which then sends full power on to the starter motor and it cranks the engine.

So power to the starter has to get there by going through the starter solenoid. There isn't any power to the starter motor until the solenoid sends power there. There is always power to one side of the starter solenoid - which is usually mounted on or next to the starter. When the key switch activates the starter solenoid switch it closes (with a click) and sends cranking power on to the starter motor. That cranks the engine. It may not start, but it will crank over i.e. turn over normally. If it doesn't crank, there is your problem .... either the key switch, the starter solenoid, or the starter motor is not getting voltage, and in that order.

There is another solenoid on some models that opens the fuel flow from the tank to the fuel pump. If your tractor cranks normally but doesn't start you need to check that one too.

My guess is it is a safety switch. Mine has two on the drivers seat, one on the clutch pedal, and one on the PTO.
A bad battery cable or connector to battery or frame will also allow all the electrics to work EXCEPT the starter motor.
That is very common, and if you have a new battery that probably means the cables and connectors need renewing too.
rScotty

A heavy duty cable comes to the starter supplying battery voltage constantly and is attached to one side of the solenoid. Another heavy duty wire attached to the other side of the solenoid goes directly to the starter. A light duty wire come from a relay or directly from the switch to the solenoid. When the switch is turned to the start position, this wire usually Carry’s battery voltage. The voltage supplied by this wire to the starter solenoid which activates or collapses the solenoid which in turn allows battery voltage to flow directly to the starter which causes it to rotate and spin the engine.

The poster needs to start going backward from the starter towards the switch and find out why 12 volts are not being sent from the switch to the starter solenoid. It could be, being caused by a number of things. A defective relay, a bad switch or one of the safety switches. If a hydro I would set on the seat and rock the go pedal backward and forward several Times. I would then slowly move the pedal backward and forward while holding the key to the start position and see if the starter engages.

 

[ovrszd]

When you say, " There is power going to the starter but no power goinjg to the solenoid" I don't understand this sentence, and it's probably going to confuse other electrical guys, too. "

A solenoid is just an on/off switch powered by electricity instead of a manual knob or lever. The key switch sends voltage to the starter solenoid which then sends full power on to the starter motor and it cranks the engine.

So power to the starter has to get there by going through the starter solenoid. There isn't any power to the starter motor until the solenoid sends power there. There is always power to one side of the starter solenoid - which is usually mounted on or next to the starter. When the key switch activates the starter solenoid switch it closes (with a click) and sends cranking power on to the starter motor. That cranks the engine. It may not start, but it will crank over i.e. turn over normally. If it doesn't crank, there is your problem .... either the key switch, the starter solenoid, or the starter motor is not getting voltage, and in that order.

There is another solenoid on some models that opens the fuel flow from the tank to the fuel pump. If your tractor cranks normally but doesn't start you need to check that one too.

My guess is it is a safety switch. Mine has two on the drivers seat, one on the clutch pedal, and one on the PTO.
A bad battery cable or connector to battery or frame will also allow all the electrics to work EXCEPT the starter motor.
That is very common, and if you have a new battery that probably means the cables and connectors need renewing too.
rScotty

Read Gator's comment below yours. He correctly describes the voltage to starter issue that the OP stated.

 

[JWR]

Read Gator's comment below yours. He correctly describes the voltage to starter issue that the OP stated.

Scotty and Gator are both correct --just a big difference in expressing it using the troublesome vehicle of English ! At this point in the thread the big question is not so much getting juice to the solenoid and starter (the OP and his mechanic friend hot wired that and spun the motor) the question is why the engine cranked but did not start... and not much doubt that is because the fuel is shut off somewhere.

So... Most likely the prevailing wisdom (e.g. an issue with safety interlocks) is true and whatever is blocking the start command to the solenoid is also blocking the fuel solenoid from opening the fuel path (and maybe electric fuel pump too?) Just gotta methodically go thru all interlocks until you find the one (or ones) holding up the starting process. Didn't someone already say that ?

 

[ljayc]

About four days ago I parked my tractor and yesterday I went to start it and it would not start. There was no clicking, no attempt to turn over no nothing. Everything else is working fine. All dash lights, head and tail lights, radio, heater fan, etc. The battery is only about 4 months old and fully charged. There is power going to the starter but no power going to the solenoid. I checked all fuses, including the slow fuses none were blown. A auto mechanic friend came over and we tried the hot wire trick. The engine turned over very fast and strong but would not fire off. Our thinking is that the hot wire is maybe bypassing the fuel (system) pump. That is just a guess! The dash lights say the glow plugs are working. The seat switch is working as far as we can tell and the PTO is turned off. I was blowing snow four days ago and turned off the PTO, backed into the tractor shed and shut down the tractor.
Any and all help is needed. It's suppose to start snowing Thursday night and snow for several days.

Safety switch……rock the HST pedal back and forth a few times and make sure it’s in the middle. Then move the “cruise control lever back and forth and make sure it’s off. Then hold the PTO lever back in the off position as you turn the key. That’s what I have to do with my L5030. Once I found a wire torn off a safety switch so you may need to identify where they are and check. Spray them with lube when you find them. Good luck!

 

[dstig1]

The Grand L 30 series will display an error message when you try to crank if one of the safety conditions is not met. It will say CLUTCH if you don't press the clutch in for example. Have you looked for that? Might save a lot of time troubleshooting...