Mahindra 5155 Anyone?

[3gunr]

I have tooth bars on all of my tractors they all are a great addition and are useful for many things, My pirahna is my favorite one. The hood latch is terrible on my 2538 also , i found that lube makes it worse because crud just sticks to it now i keep it dry and blow out dirt with air before i open it and it works much better,

 

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has anyone experienced an issue with the hood release?
mine will not release the hood, dealer thinks it is due to dirt buildup in the latch.

Bear, after you clean it out if indeed there is stuff in there, try the graphite lube they use in lock sets. Doesn't build up crud because the stuff is not sticky.
202597501

 

[yanmars]

I have not read all the past posts but my Mahindra 4510 hood latch really works poorly.

 

[Straightgrain3016]

I really like my 3016 but in a 10 year hind-sight, a 5 series tractor seems to be the minimum-size tractor for the light forestry work I do; a typical 37 foot Doug-Fir happens to be where the better money at the mill begins, but logs that size, over work the 3016s.

OP has a nice looking tractor, congrats.

 

[DaBear3428]

Bear, after you clean it out if indeed there is stuff in there, try the graphite lube they use in lock sets. Doesn't build up crud because the stuff is not sticky.
202597501

I will try that after i get out the drill and put a hole in my screen so that i can spray wd40 on it to get it open so that i can fix it lol. i wish there was some way to get the darn thing open with out messing up my hood.

 

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I will try that after i get out the drill and put a hole in my screen so that i can spray wd40 on it to get it open so that i can fix it lol. i wish there was some way to get the darn thing open with out messing up my hood.

They're may be. If you can stick a application wand that comes with stuff like PB Blaster or Liquid wrench, apply that first and wait a couple days for this stuff to work its magic. See if it opens.
Then spray the area with carb cleaner, allow a few seconds to dry and apply the graphite lubricant.
When I go back to work on Monday, I'll take a look at the couple 5155's on the lot to see where else the locking mechanism can be accessed.
In the mean time, spray it up

 

[arrow]

I really like my 3016 but in a 10 year hind-sight, a 5 series tractor seems to be the minimum-size tractor for the light forestry work I do; a typical 37 foot Doug-Fir happens to be where the better money at the mill begins, but logs that size, over work the 3016s.

OP has a nice looking tractor, congrats.

How many cords are you dragging in?
I don't necessarily disagree but the 4wd 4540 or 4550 will also do the type of work you describe w alacrity. With weighted tires and fel, you're looking at literally twice the weight of a 3016 w the same.
Your 3016 in decent shape may be worth 15K toward a new Mahindra of that chassis size.
.

 

[DaBear3428]

How many cords are you dragging in?
I don't necessarily disagree but the 4wd 4540 or 4550 will also do the type of work you describe w alacrity. With weighted tires and fel, you're looking at literally twice the weight of a 3016 w the same.
Your 3016 in decent shape may be worth 15K toward a new Mahindra of that chassis size.
.

the 4540/50 was in contention when i bought my 5145 but the between your legs shifter and no shuttle made me go to the 5100 series, they are not as loaded with tech as the 2600 series and the open station is roomier.

 

[DaBear3428]

They're may be. If you can stick a application wand that comes with stuff like PB Blaster or Liquid wrench, apply that first and wait a couple days for this stuff to work its magic. See if it opens.
Then spray the area with carb cleaner, allow a few seconds to dry and apply the graphite lubricant.
When I go back to work on Monday, I'll take a look at the couple 5155's on the lot to see where else the locking mechanism can be accessed.
In the mean time, spray it up

i will look into it Arrow but there is a brace that runs right down the center of the front of the hood and so far i have found no way to get the straw in there and the screen mesh is to small to allow hitting it from an angle. i would love it if you had any advice on getting this thing open, (well I can get it open but trying to refrain from my standard approach lol)

 

[Straightgrain3016]

How many cords are you dragging in?
I don't necessarily disagree but the 4wd 4540 or 4550 will also do the type of work you describe w alacrity. With weighted tires and fel, you're looking at literally twice the weight of a 3016 w the same.
Your 3016 in decent shape may be worth 15K toward a new Mahindra of that chassis size.
.

15 cords of maple ea year ( I buk maple logs at 12'6"), or it takes @ 30 doug-fir logs to fill a log truck (once or twice per year).

The 55 hundred new trees will be the kid's chore in 20 years... haha

 

[Straightgrain3016]

The 3016 barely lifted these 22" x 8' sections of Savana Oak today; I chose "forking" them over skidding...

I have 400# of rim guard in the rear wheels.

Mia culpa; the hydro fluid & filters are due for a change....

 

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The 3016 barely lifted these 22" x 8' sections of Savana Oak today; I chose "forking" them over skidding...

I have 400# of rim guard in the rear wheels.

Mia culpa; the hydro fluid & filters are due for a change....

Still, the 3016 is pretty strong for its size. I use a modded carry all on my shuttle tractor for the heavy stuff as I do not like walking the tractor too far with this kind of frontal load. The oak stem pictured is about 1700lbs.
I would agree that you could use a larger machine. If they continued w the 3600 series, that would have been super and better suited to your type of work. Probably mine too.
They are coming out with a new "K series" tractor. This is a tractor built at a new factory in India and a joint venture w Mitsubishi.

 

[arrow]

the 4540/50 was in contention when i bought my 5145 but the between your legs shifter and no shuttle made me go to the 5100 series, they are not as loaded with tech as the 2600 series and the open station is roomier.

I hear ya. The 4000 series is an old time brute of a tractor and well suited for brute type work.
It also runs appreciably cheaper.
Would I own one? Nope. I had a "stick shift" type tractor for 28 years before this one so I'm done w that type.

 

[arrow]

i will look into it Arrow but there is a brace that runs right down the center of the front of the hood and so far i have found no way to get the straw in there and the screen mesh is to small to allow hitting it from an angle. i would love it if you had any advice on getting this thing open, (well I can get it open but trying to refrain from my standard approach lol)

I will definitely have a look see and ask the techs what they use for a sticky hood.

 

[DaBear3428]

Still, the 3016 is pretty strong for its size. I use a modded carry all on my shuttle tractor for the heavy stuff as I do not like walking the tractor too far with this kind of frontal load. The oak stem pictured is about 1700lbs.
I would agree that you could use a larger machine. If they continued w the 3600 series, that would have been super and better suited to your type of work. Probably mine too.
They are coming out with a new "K series" tractor. This is a tractor built at a new factory in India and a joint venture w Mitsubishi.

I was thinking that the 5100 series was a good replacement for the 3600 series, do you disagree and if so I'm interested in why?

 

[arrow]

I was thinking that the 5100 series was a good replacement for the 3600 series, do you disagree and if so I'm interested in why?

Yes and no. The frame on the 35-3600 series was a bit smaller. HP was about the same at 50 but for my type of forest, maneuverability is key so i would have appreciated the bit more smaller tractor. For pure power, the 5100 series is tops. Then there is the 2660 but we cannot seem to get those either. Had one on order since Feb 2021.

Bear, have you tried having someone putting all their weight on the front of the hood while standing on the bucket and then you pulling the latch?
Might wanna try that. If the latch is spring bound and stuck, sometimes the downward pressure relieves the bind and the hood opens.

 

[Andy1969]

Just a little project I finished up today. I wanted to improve the protection of the factory grill guard. So I got a piece of this 11 gauge steel that had holes plasma cut in it. It was a leftover piece from a shop I know so I got it cheap. Anyway I think it will improve my chances of not puncturing my radiator when I’m using the grapple etc. BTW I found that Rust Oleum “Sunrise Red” is almost an exact match for the Mahindra red color.

 

[yanmars]

Nicely done.

 

[DaBear3428]

Just a little project I finished up today. I wanted to improve the protection of the factory grill guard. So I got a piece of this 11 gauge steel that had holes plasma cut in it. It was a leftover piece from a shop I know so I got it cheap. Anyway I think it will improve my chances of not puncturing my radiator when I’m using the grapple etc. BTW I found that Rust Oleum “Sunrise Red” is almost an exact match for the Mahindra red color. View attachment 775144View attachment 775145View attachment 775146View attachment 775148View attachment 775149View attachment 775150View attachment 775151

Nice, i'm thinking of doing the same but i'm planning on using bar grate

 

[DaBear3428]

Yes and no. The frame on the 35-3600 series was a bit smaller. HP was about the same at 50 but for my type of forest, maneuverability is key so i would have appreciated the bit more smaller tractor. For pure power, the 5100 series is tops. Then there is the 2660 but we cannot seem to get those either. Had one on order since Feb 2021.

Bear, have you tried having someone putting all their weight on the front of the hood while standing on the bucket and then you pulling the latch?
Might wanna try that. If the latch is spring bound and stuck, sometimes the downward pressure relieves the bind and the hood opens.

I did not need a smaller tractor so 51 is great for me did not need the HP because i'm not doing much with ground engagement.
I went by the dealer and we looked at another 5145 on the lot and there is a small hole covered with a rubber plug behind the release lever that i may be able to access and open the hood but so far no amount of down or up pressure will release the hood, but if you press down on the hood you can hear the release pop so it is trying to release but you can forget about spraying anything thru the grill and hitting the latch.