compressed air to prevent pipe freeze

[big bubba]

My cabin took a big hit when the elec failed during extended sub zero temps. heat lamp under sink works great when there's power, but i lost a tankless water heater & pipes in the aftermath w/o power for many hrs. The supply from the pump house is below cabin, so a purge in extremes would be good.
what is your method of using compressed air to purge lines?

& for those familiar w/elec tankless heaters, w/circuit off, is there any problem with using compressed air to purge the tank through the lines? (& i'm careful to fill tank completely before use again)

 

[jaxs]

Low point drains are effective and simple but not all plumbers install them unless you pay extra. If pump is below house opening spigot at or near pump might drain/siphon most water from lines in cabin when all faucets are open. As for using compressed air,buy the adapter at big box or rv dealer and install it on hydrant farthest from pump and drain at lowest place that can be opened.

 

[big bubba]

thank you, didn't even know they were avail

 

[/pine]

I made a simple manifold using 1/2" galv....a 'T' and some nipples plus
one reducing bushing to whatever size a Schrader valve is...a 1/2" fm hose bib...
I connect a washing machine hose to the hose bib to blow out lines...
I use a clip on the air chuck so it stays on the Schrader valve...

 

[i7win7]

This old house (PBS) demo'ed this, closed off water valves cause this, nowhere for excess pressure to bleed off. If you have a yard hydrant, make a water hose to air hose adaptor. Water pressure usually 60psi. I open water valves and use 100spi air, never hits 100 with valves open. Flush toilets last. After bleeding lines and turning off air, you can close water valves. Toilet valves remain open to bleed off air.

 

[big bubba]

my cabin plumb is simple, basically under the sink. sounds like i'll need to install a fitting inline, 3/4 pipe thread or hose thread for adapter? assume compressor psi should be same or lower than normal water pressure?
should have researched this decades ago. main challenge is when there's power outage in the rural area.

 

[bandc07]

don't forget to either put anti freeze down the drain to keep traps from freezing or blow them out, too.

 

[grsthegreat]

They sell pipe to hose thread adapters at home depot.

even easier, For my sprinkler system i placed a standard air quickfitting

that attaches to my air compressor hose, and places a water rated shut off valve before this fitting.

Every winter i hook air hose onto fitting, set pressure to 60 psi, open valve and drain. Easy peasy.

can do same for house.

 

[Billrog]

Use a vacuum cleaner to blow the pipes out. No need for any special fittings the end of the vacuum hose will fit right on a tap.

 

[Williy]

I have always set our pressure to 45 psi
never had any problems!

big bubba you forgot something?????
where is your generator?????????

You could have a 2K watt generator
and used heat lamps nothing would
have froze under the sink, leave doors
open and have the heat lamp right in
front of the sink or a 1K generator would
work with regular light bulbs just and
idea

willy

willy

 

[oosik]

In the early fall I would always purge my irrigation distribution system with my compressor. Connect the compressor to last hydrant and go around opening one hydrant at a time. It took the better part of an hour but prevented freeze up on the extensive distribution system.

 

[big bubba]

I have always set our pressure to 45 psi
never had any problems!

big bubba you forgot something?????
where is your generator?????????

You could have a 2K watt generator
and used heat lamps nothing would
have froze under the sink, leave doors
open and have the heat lamp right in
front of the sink or a 1K generator would
work with regular light bulbs just and
idea

willy

willy

good point! my cabin is remote & don't live there full time. rural electric is unpredictable & was w/o service for 10 hrs. a generator household setup would be the way to go w/auto setup, but really don't want to go to that expense, time, etc. my plumbing setup is entirely under sink & simple (no commode/washing machine, etc)
point well taken though

thanks to the info here, i'll plumb an inline fitting on the sink supply & purge when necessary in this unpredictable climate of extremes. thanks for input

 

[MossRoad]

My cabin took a big hit when the elec failed during extended sub zero temps. heat lamp under sink works great when there's power, but i lost a tankless water heater & pipes in the aftermath w/o power for many hrs. The supply from the pump house is below cabin, so a purge in extremes would be good.
what is your method of using compressed air to purge lines?

& for those familiar w/elec tankless heaters, w/circuit off, is there any problem with using compressed air to purge the tank through the lines? (& i'm careful to fill tank completely before use again)

Sorry for your freezing issues.

Around here, especially in SW lower Michigan, there are a lot of seasonal cottages due to the large number of lakes. If you don't want to leave the heat on all winter, they have to be winterized. My grandparents did it annually before leaving for Florida for the winter.

They'd shut off the water well at the circuit breaker.
Drain all of the plumbing through a spigot next to the pump.
Shut off and drain the water heater.
Fully open every faucet on every sink, hose bib, etc.
Flush the toilet to drain the tank.
Pour anti-freeze into the toilet and every sink drain trap.
They never blew out any pipes, but that couldn't hurt. As others have mentioned, you can easily put air hose fittings into your system like they do to blow out lawn sprinkler systems.


Look on Youtube for videos on how to winterize a cabin or cottage and there's quite a few that give step-by-step instructions.

 

[MossRoad]

For that matter, I know a guy that quit his job and started his own company. All he does is property management for cottages and vacation homes. It involves winterizing for customers, checking their properties throughout the winter, and opening their properties before they get back. In summers he manages repairs, mowing, boat docks in and out, etc. Pretty lucrative business if you have a good reputation.

 

[big bubba]

Sorry for your freezing issues.

Around here, especially in SW lower Michigan, there are a lot of seasonal cottages due to the large number of lakes. If you don't want to leave the heat on all winter, they have to be winterized. My grandparents did it annually before leaving for Florida for the winter.

They'd shut off the water well at the circuit breaker.
Drain all of the plumbing through a spigot next to the pump.
Shut off and drain the water heater.
Fully open every faucet on every sink, hose bib, etc.
Flush the toilet to drain the tank.
Pour anti-freeze into the toilet and every sink drain trap.
They never blew out any pipes, but that couldn't hurt. As others have mentioned, you can easily put air hose fittings into your system like they do to blow out lawn sprinkler systems.


Look on Youtube for videos on how to winterize a cabin or cottage and there's quite a few that give step-by-step instructions.

another good post for my challenge. i can basically gravity drain my system under sink as the pump house is below the cabin. but pockets remain such as tankless water heater reservoirs. during the outage the reservoirs froze solid necessitating new purchase ($600, ouch). so i will need to air purge as well under the sink.
sounds as if your gr'parents has a good system going. regards

 

[Oaktree]

don't forget to either put anti freeze down the drain to keep traps from freezing or blow them out, too.

I'd lean towards antifreeze to keep sewer gas out.

 

[MossRoad]

My employer has us pour some vegetable oil into floor drains after we add water. They say it covers the surface of the water in the trap and prevents or lessons evaporation so the sewer gas doesn't come up. Of course, this is in non-freezing areas.

 

[dlctcg]

If you don't feel like making up your own adapters they are readily sold. We have a couple different versions that we use for our outside spigots & to clear the irrigation lines in th eraised gardens... Oh, & it does not take much pressure at all to clear the lines... I like having the ball valve to help control the air flow.

They are similar to these:

Dual Purpose Winterize Adapter

Air Compressor Quick-Connect Plug To Female Garden Hose

Air Comp Quick-Connect Plug To 3/4" Garden Hose Faucet Blow Out Adapter

​

 

[big bubba]

thanks to the info in this thread lead me to the simplest adapter shrade/3/4 pipe thread thanks for input on this

 

[rScotty]

I like to use a larger fitting than a tire valve so that a greater volume of air gets into the pipe quickly to get the water moving. You want lots of volume of air quickly. I usually just use a rubber air hose nozzle and push it against an open spigot at a high point in my plumbing. Open a spigot at the far end - usually a garden spigot, set my air pressure to 60/70 psi, and give it successive 10 or 20 second shots until water quits coming out the far end of the plumbing.
rScotty