Carport Weight

[DaBear3428]

IMO move don't disassemble it. brace the bottom runners to keep them from racking and put skid under it, then you can drag across level ground.

i disassembled a 18X40 and it was a process.

 

[dieselscout80]

Skidding it is out of the question as the move route (less than 200 yards) is NOT flat.

 

[DaBear3428]

Skidding it is out of the question as the move route (less than 200 yards) is NOT flat.

how not flat? can you use wheels to roll it over?
I would invest a lot of effort in moving it before i disassembled/reassembled another one.

 

[2manyrocks]

Could be helpful to see the route it would have to travel to get to the new intended location.

 

[DaBear3428]

Could be helpful to see the route it would have to travel to get to the new intended location.

the route was what caused me to dis/reassemble mine i was putting a slab under it and it was in a confined location so my only option was dis/reassemble, lot of work. even thought about raising it up to work under it lol.

 

[jjeff]

Interesting, a couple thing I learned from trial and error over the years moving carports and structures. Being able to lift the corners off the ground in the direction your heading was imperative for me anyway and being able to make wide sweeping turns was helpful for me. Worst thing you can do in my experience is get a front corner of the baseplate digging in the ground in direction your heading in my opinion.

 

[2manyrocks]

Sorry, I meant the OP's route. But since you actually have disassembled yours, what are your thoughts on whether the OP could jack his up, put it on a long trailer, and move it that way? House movers can use multiple jacks at once to lift entire houses. It could be done, but I'd think extensive bracing, planning, and going slowly not to bend things would be absolutely necessary. Is all this really worth it or is disassembly the way to go?

 

[DaBear3428]

Sorry, I meant the OP's route. But since you actually have disassembled yours, what are your thoughts on whether the OP could jack his up, put it on a long trailer, and move it that way? House movers can use multiple jacks at once to lift entire houses. It could be done, but I'd think extensive bracing, planning, and going slowly not to bend things would be absolutely necessary. Is all this really worth it or is disassembly the way to go?

i would not try to road one, but for 200 yards i would exhaust every reasonable option to just skid it over. the base will have to be braced for x-y stabilization the z axis is the real question, it would be easy to wrack it by skidding it over too ruff of a path. also it is 24 x 24 so IMO to wide to put on a trailer. IMO if the path is not too ruff and it can be reasonably braced to skid it that is the way to go (you can x brace to stiffen the z axis).

 

[DaBear3428]

i have skidded mine a short distance, the plan would be to jack it up, put skids on the front end, x brace the runners and possibly x brace the z axis (both axis of twist). then slowly skid it. again i have no idea of the route so!
one of the issues that taking it apart introduces is that the holes in the tin may not match up and you are left with holes to patch. most of these are built with 29Ga tin, it tends to be easier to damage when disassembled during handling.

 

[jjeff]

Sorry, I meant the OP's route. But since you actually have disassembled yours, what are your thoughts on whether the OP could jack his up, put it on a long trailer, and move it that way? House movers can use multiple jacks at once to lift entire houses. It could be done, but I'd think extensive bracing, planning, and going slowly not to bend things would be absolutely necessary. Is all this really worth it or is disassembly the way to go?

Speculating does the op have the means to acquire repurposed steel, weld? Imo even if a trailer large enough to move a carports that size a few hundred yards the amount of work and modifications to trailer deck and baseplate would be prohibitive for me anyway. If I had only one tractor that was able to lift a gable end id construct a ridgid bridle running across the base plates on the end id pull from with a few extra braces running off center of bridle to midway point on each baseplate . Weld in some diagonal bracing on the upright walls. My idea would probably only work if you have a piece of equipment able to lift both corners of direction your heading at once. And when you get to final destination wafer wheels will be your friend to remove added reinforcement. Good luck

 

[DaBear3428]

Speculating does the op have the means to acquire repurposed steel, weld? Imo even if a trailer large enough to move a carports that size a few hundred yards the amount of work and modifications to trailer deck and baseplate would be prohibitive for me anyway. If I had only one tractor that was able to lift a gable end id construct a ridgid bridle running across the base plates on the end id pull from with a few extra braces running off center of bridle to midway point on each baseplate . Weld in some diagonal bracing on the upright walls. My idea would probably only work if you have a piece of equipment able to lift both corners of direction your heading at once. And when you get to final destination wafer wheels will be your friend to remove added reinforcement. Good luck

IMO welding is more trouble than it is worth the self tapping screw is your friend on the 14ga tubing that these things are made of.

 

[3gunr]

How about 2 trailers one under each track truck or tractor pulling each trailer.

 

[jjeff]

IMO welding is more trouble than it is worth the self tapping screw is your friend on the 14ga tubing that these things are made of.

Imo and experience welding is stronger than any fastener, and will add more ridgity to bracing the frame work on baseplates and uprights are probably at least 14 gauge. over the years I consider my self profecient using wafer wheels and flap disks lol.

 

[3gunr]

I disagree. Wife and I built the frame then hired a contractor to do the roof. 6 hours for 2 guys, ladders, million screws, seals at all the joints, edge trim. To disassemble, you will need to mark all the sheets.

This is a 20'x24x8. After the roof, then we did both sides and one end. It took our old bones several days to do what we did. I would build another one at the new location before I would try to move it.

View attachment 781274View attachment 781275

I had a 28x35 garage with 2 10x10 doors put up 2 yrs ago on a slab ,2 guys did it in a little over 8 hrs, i love it so far.

 

[jjeff]

How about 2 trailers one under each track truck or tractor pulling each trailer.

I like that idea. Plenty of options most will work imo all depends on skills, materials, time, and patience of the op.

 

[newbury]

All, question what do you think this carport weighs?

I want to move it and I am thinking about moving it without taking it apart.

Its 24’x24’ and post’s are 9’ tall. The posts are 2.5” square.

What does it matter what it weighs?
Just get a lot of friends together

 

[Racenut]

Yeah, looks like you need 10 friends and the appropriate amount of meat and beer.

 

[zzvyb6]

Will a few cross beams, a loader could raise it up a foot or so, and a few buddies could watch the corners while moving it.

 

[DaBear3428]

Imo and experience welding is stronger than any fastener, and will add more ridgity to bracing the frame work on baseplates and uprights are probably at least 14 gauge. over the years I consider my self profecient using wafer wheels and flap disks lol.

i agree with the stronger during the move, the issue is that after the move the welding will have heat treated the 14ga and it may not maintain the proper strength this is IMO.

 

[bigtiller]

i would not try to road one, but for 200 yards i would exhaust every reasonable option to just skid it over. the base will have to be braced for x-y stabilization the z axis is the real question, it would be easy to wrack it by skidding it over too ruff of a path. also it is 24 x 24 so IMO to wide to put on a trailer. IMO if the path is not too ruff and it can be reasonably braced to skid it that is the way to go (you can x brace to stiffen the z axis).

It will fit on a trailer, buildings are trailered quite often. I have a 20x24 garage that was delivered and set in place.
Here is a pic of the neighbors 16x24 garage going down the road to it's new home.