Carport Weight

   / Carport Weight #21  
IMO move don't disassemble it. brace the bottom runners to keep them from racking and put skid under it, then you can drag across level ground.

i disassembled a 18X40 and it was a process.
 
   / Carport Weight
  • Thread Starter
#22  
Skidding it is out of the question as the move route (less than 200 yards) is NOT flat.
 
   / Carport Weight #23  
dieselscout80 said:
Skidding it is out of the question as the move route (less than 200 yards) is NOT flat.
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how not flat? can you use wheels to roll it over?
I would invest a lot of effort in moving it before i disassembled/reassembled another one.
 
   / Carport Weight #25  
2manyrocks said:
Could be helpful to see the route it would have to travel to get to the new intended location.
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the route was what caused me to dis/reassemble mine i was putting a slab under it and it was in a confined location so my only option was dis/reassemble, lot of work. even thought about raising it up to work under it lol.
 
   / Carport Weight #26  
Interesting, a couple thing I learned from trial and error over the years moving carports and structures. Being able to lift the corners off the ground in the direction your heading was imperative for me anyway and being able to make wide sweeping turns was helpful for me. Worst thing you can do in my experience is get a front corner of the baseplate digging in the ground in direction your heading in my opinion.
 
   / Carport Weight #27  
Sorry, I meant the OP's route. But since you actually have disassembled yours, what are your thoughts on whether the OP could jack his up, put it on a long trailer, and move it that way? House movers can use multiple jacks at once to lift entire houses. It could be done, but I'd think extensive bracing, planning, and going slowly not to bend things would be absolutely necessary. Is all this really worth it or is disassembly the way to go?
 
   / Carport Weight #28  
2manyrocks said:
Sorry, I meant the OP's route. But since you actually have disassembled yours, what are your thoughts on whether the OP could jack his up, put it on a long trailer, and move it that way? House movers can use multiple jacks at once to lift entire houses. It could be done, but I'd think extensive bracing, planning, and going slowly not to bend things would be absolutely necessary. Is all this really worth it or is disassembly the way to go?
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i would not try to road one, but for 200 yards i would exhaust every reasonable option to just skid it over. the base will have to be braced for x-y stabilization the z axis is the real question, it would be easy to wrack it by skidding it over too ruff of a path. also it is 24 x 24 so IMO to wide to put on a trailer. IMO if the path is not too ruff and it can be reasonably braced to skid it that is the way to go (you can x brace to stiffen the z axis).
 
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   / Carport Weight #29  
i have skidded mine a short distance, the plan would be to jack it up, put skids on the front end, x brace the runners and possibly x brace the z axis (both axis of twist). then slowly skid it. again i have no idea of the route so!
one of the issues that taking it apart introduces is that the holes in the tin may not match up and you are left with holes to patch. most of these are built with 29Ga tin, it tends to be easier to damage when disassembled during handling.
 
   / Carport Weight #30  
2manyrocks said:
Sorry, I meant the OP's route. But since you actually have disassembled yours, what are your thoughts on whether the OP could jack his up, put it on a long trailer, and move it that way? House movers can use multiple jacks at once to lift entire houses. It could be done, but I'd think extensive bracing, planning, and going slowly not to bend things would be absolutely necessary. Is all this really worth it or is disassembly the way to go?
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Speculating does the op have the means to acquire repurposed steel, weld? Imo even if a trailer large enough to move a carports that size a few hundred yards the amount of work and modifications to trailer deck and baseplate would be prohibitive for me anyway. If I had only one tractor that was able to lift a gable end id construct a ridgid bridle running across the base plates on the end id pull from with a few extra braces running off center of bridle to midway point on each baseplate . Weld in some diagonal bracing on the upright walls. My idea would probably only work if you have a piece of equipment able to lift both corners of direction your heading at once. And when you get to final destination wafer wheels will be your friend to remove added reinforcement. Good luck
 
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