New (used) IH 7500 Dump Truck purchase, modification & fix up

[mrmikey]

Probably a bit cheaper than moving axle, I would think.

I would think if you're doing the all labour yourself (other than bending the plate and shortening the driveshaft obviously), by the time you have to buy the plate and get it bent or send the driveshaft out and get it shortened, moving the axles ahead would be cheaper for out of pocket expenses
Saying that, going with the reinforced tail end and leaving the CA as it is would give you what you really want, (admit it ) the possibility of 12' body, so, thinking like you I'd go the reinforced frame. Another advantage of leaving the frame length as is, you don't have to monkey with a drive train that you know works as far as angles and lengths go.
For material, going on the assumption the frame is 10" deep with a 3" flange you're gonna need two pieces of 1/4" plate 16"± x 6' ? +, and a couple of small pieces to reinforce the cross members where you splice them back together and an hour shearing and bending, so 'bout $150 labour.

Price of new bodies (steel) is so unbelievably high that used bodies are now expensive and rare

I've heard that bodies I had bought for <$22K no more than 2-3 years ago are now going for $32K>. Riduculous.....but as long as people pay the price, that's where they'll stay. The unfortunate thing is a lot of people don't have a choice.

 

[Hay Dude]

I found a beautiful brand new Beau Roc AR450 11’ body with all accessories (lights, hoist, cab shield, plates, etc) for $11,500.
I would probably have another $5,000 in pump, lines and cab controls.

Whew! I need a money printing press.

 

[mrmikey]

I found a beautiful brand new Beau Roc AR450 11’ body with all accessories (lights, hoist, cab shield, plates, etc) for $11,500.

Good on you HD !!, congrats, they make a nice heavy body or they used to 7 or so years ago . Now you can get started on the chassis

Whew! I need a money printing press.

I'd loan you mine but the inks dried up

 

[Hay Dude]

$12,000 for a body and however many more thousands for pump, control tower, etc is probably a fantasy
Back to looking for used bodies.
Man, are they hard to find. Easy to understand why.


Now, do I shorten the truck and wheelbase to address the rust on the end of the frame, or try to reinforce it?

Here’s what I am thinking now: Overlay a piece of inverted “L” on outside of frame on the last 5-6 feet. Enough to capture rear and front hangers. This way I don’t have to cut the cross webs-which looks very time consuming. My rear spring U-bolts look pretty shot anyway, so I was thinking of replacing them, too. The only thing I don’t know is if the spring packs are resting on a pin or not???

Would overlaying only the last 6’ of frame screw-up the way the dump body long sills sit on the frame? Should I just overlay the entire length up to the cab? Overlay the whole frame would cost more, but it would also add strength and a very smooth surface to the look of the frame.

 

[mrmikey]

That'll knock your spring mounts out of whack in the outboard direction, maybe 1/4" won't make much difference but something to keep in mind. I've run into pins in the hanger before, unfortunately I can't remember the brand. See if you can get a look at a new hanger.
It's going to make it a bit wonky ahead of the reinforcement and the body won't be sitting on anything, I don't think it's a method I'd recommend IMHO

Ever considered a subframe for the body? It'll cure three problems, the bent up flange of the frame, the edge of the frame won't be wearing into the body rails and it'll also reinforce the aft end of the frame.
2 x 3 x 1/4" HSS only weights 7 lbs per ft so 24 ft plus a couple of 2 x 2 x 1/4 angle crossmembers will only add 400lbs±. Not to mention you can also incorporate the dump cylinder mount as well as the tipping hinge into it. You could have one good size cheek plate at the rear wrapped around the hinge and bolted full height of the truck frame as far forward as the spring hanger. Another mid way between the spring as I see one hole there already and another at the front by the cylinder mount. Just a thought

 

[dodge man]

Just thinking out loud but how bad is the back of that frame? I’d think it’d be easier to leave it alone or reinforce it rather than mess with shortening the frame and moving the axle.

 

[Hay Dude]

That'll knock your spring mounts out of whack in the outboard direction, maybe 1/4" won't make much difference but something to keep in mind. I've run into pins in the hanger before, unfortunately I can't remember the brand. See if you can get a look at a new hanger.
It's going to make it a bit wonky ahead of the reinforcement and the body won't be sitting on anything, I don't think it's a method I'd recommend IMHO

Ever considered a subframe for the body? It'll cure three problems, the bent up flange of the frame, the edge of the frame won't be wearing into the body rails and it'll also reinforce the aft end of the frame.
2 x 3 x 1/4" HSS only weights 7 lbs per ft so 24 ft plus a couple of 2 x 2 x 1/4 angle crossmembers will only add 400lbs±. Not to mention you can also incorporate the dump cylinder mount as well as the tipping hinge into it. You could have one good size cheek plate at the rear wrapped around the hinge and bolted full height of the truck frame as far forward as the spring hanger. Another mid way between the spring as I see one hole there already and another at the front by the cylinder mount. Just a thought

I’m not following everything you say, but do you mean buying a dumptruck bed with a subframe?
Wouldn’t that mean a scissor hoist instead of a tele hoist?

Don‘t have a problem with that type of hoist, but always thought they were inferior.

I don’t understand fully the rest of what you speak of with the cheek plate….
Will adding a typical pintle plate help strengthen? I think so, but wanted to mention I plan on doing that too

 

[mrmikey]

Drew this up in a hurry, 'scuse the crudeness .
The truck frame will actually extend under the tipping hinge, I just never drew it. The dump cylinder mount will be at the front from side to side.

Don‘t have a problem with that type of hoist, but always thought they were inferior.

As do I, the inferior part that is

I’m not following everything you say, but do you mean buying a dumptruck bed with a subframe?

You could but I doubt if you'd get one exactly what you want, make one...after all, it's just a rectangular frame made from rectangular HSS and a couple bits of angle.

Will adding a typical pintle plate help strengthen? I think so, but wanted to mention I plan on doing that too

Mehhhh, can't see how. You could weld the tailplate to the underside of the tipping hinge angle (which is already welded to the HSS and the rear mount plate) the one with the four± bolts

T

 

[Hay Dude]

Ok, so if I buy a used or new bed with a Tele hoist, can this subframe still be utilized? Or would the cylinder be too short since the bed is now sitting on a sub frame? Or are you suggesting mounting the telescoping cylinder cradle up on the subframe, too?

I like the rear fish plate. That would help “patch” the bad spot perfectly, but the problem is, the rear plate is where the rear spring hanger is.

The 6 bolt holes for the patch could be mated up with the 6 bolt holes already in the spring hanger and the frame.

 

[mrmikey]

I found a couple of old pics I had taken of a tailplate, two 1/2" NPT couplings either side for trailer air, center hole for electrical, bottom holes for a 50T air cushion pintle hitch and of course the D rings. If it's in your budget, the air cushion pintle saves a lot of banging, not cheap tho.
I've got the drawings I had made for subframes but unfortunately I no longer use nor have the software they were created in.

Ok, so if I buy a used or new bed with a Tele hoist, can this subframe still be utilized?

Sure, all you're effectively doing is moving the frame up 3", just treat it like the truck frame. Not saying there' isn't going to be some customizing but I can't see why it wouldn't be minimal.

I like the rear fish plate. That would help “patch” the bad spot perfectly, but the problem is, the rear plate is where the rear spring hanger is.

As long as it's not paper thin and Swiss cheese, the subframe should bridge the bad area. The subframe is running front to back, so with the dump body dumping, the rear of the frame is partially in compression. Yes there is still some vertical load but the subframe will help spread it out.

The 6 bolt holes for the patch could be mated up with the 6 bolt holes already in the spring hanger and the frame.

Ideally yes that would be the cats ass but I don't think much of the idea of moving the hangers out the thickness of the plates.
You think they'll be able to be moved out with no problem with anything clashing?