Exposed Aggregate concrete help

[LD1]

To me that is exactly what exposed ag concrete is supposed to look like....with the spray on and rince off method. By nature, concrete is only about 50% aggregate. And that looks exactly like what you have.

The picture of what you want looks like the aggregate covers 80-90% of the surface. And the way to achieve that is to "seed" the aggregate after the concrete is placed. More expensive and labor intensive.

The truth is, no matter how much you wash, blast, grind, or let wear.....the aggregate in your concrete will never look like the picture because as mentioned....50% of the surface will always be the grey concrete/sand binder and not aggregate

How many of these details were discussed with the contractor? Or what to expect or how it would look.

If you just called a contractor and said you wanted an exposed ag patio....that is exactly what he did and exactly what you got. So no need to point fingers and call him every name under the sun for doing exactly what you asked. Because what you asked for and what you wanted were NOT the same thing and that blame shouldn't be placed on him if that were the case

 

[dodge man]

Our front concrete deck is exposed aggregate. It looks more like what you want yours to be. I’m not trying to make you feel better but I don’t think yours looks bad, it’s just not what you wanted. I think the guy just waited too long to wash it down. I think anything else you do at this point is going to make it look worse. I’d live with it or rip it out and do it again.

 

[2515R Dude]

That is two very different methods and I believe your contractor should have known the difference. It's to late now, what you have will never look like what you want.

As it appeared, this creature does not know his but from his head, i showed him pictures, i explained what i want, i asked more than 10 times if he was sure it would be EXACTLY like this. and i told him i need 1-2" pebbles, not 1/4" ones

minimum 4,000psi and high volume

do nothing and it will wear naturally over time. if you live in a cold climate salt your walkways if you want the old worn out concrete look faster.

I made it now and i want it now.

Yep. That's two different methods. Did you show your contractor that picture before he started or bid the price? One is the cheap route the other is a loaded aggregate. Typically done by hand and more expensive. You probably got what you paid for. But I wasn't there.

yes i did, and he told me he would bring additional aggregate. He told me 2 bags would be enough, i tried to argue that it is too little for this size, but he assured me, he knew what he was doing and 2 bags is plenty. He ended up using only 1.5 bags, but he put it too early and they sank to the bottom and you cannot see it.

To me that is exactly what exposed ag concrete is supposed to look like....with the spray on and rince off method. By nature, concrete is only about 50% aggregate. And that looks exactly like what you have.

It is not what i wanted.

The picture of what you want looks like the aggregate covers 80-90% of the surface. And the way to achieve that is to "seed" the aggregate after the concrete is placed. More expensive and labor intensive.

Yep, it is what i wanted and was supposed to receive per promise and the picture is in the contract

The truth is, no matter how much you wash, blast, grind, or let wear.....the aggregate in your concrete will never look like the picture because as mentioned....50% of the surface will always be the grey concrete/sand binder and not aggregate

I think i'll stain it light brown, it might give some live to it

How many of these details were discussed with the contractor? Or what to expect or how it would look.

All of them

If you just called a contractor and said you wanted an exposed ag patio....that is exactly what he did and exactly what you got. So no need to point fingers and call him every name under the sun for doing exactly what you asked.

Look at the picture below and please tell me what names should i call this guy?
I hope you can see how level it is and how crisp are brake lines.

everything detail was discussed, with pictures, pebble size, colors, finish, brake lines and such. Here in KY i have a real bad experience with contractors, so i made sure to discuss every detail and length and put is on paper.

Because what you asked for and what you wanted were NOT the same thing and that blame shouldn't be placed on him if that were the case

What i asked and what i wanted is exactly the same thing, same picture i show you, was sent to him and attached to the contract.

The blame is on him, but as i reported i my OP, he never returns the calls, text or any other communication attempts.

It is KY, it is a norm here.

 

[3Ts]

After seeing the picture with the level in it, I'd say the contractor did the best job he knew how to do and his best isn't what you contracted for. That's actually quite a bad job unless it was intentional for drainage. I have the same problem in my area. Not sure there is really a solution to this other than tearing it out and getting a different contractor. I've not tried muratic acid on concrete so don't know how that would work, you might try phosphoric acid. That'll eat the concrete and leave the stones, but you run the risk of undercutting the stones and they'll then become loose and be worse than what you have.

There is an option to overlay this with an epoxy and gravel mix. I think they call it Cool Deck and use it around swimming pools for bare feet and drainage. I'd call pool companies to see what they have available as an overlay.

 

[4570Man]

You might as well go rent a mini x with a rock hammer because that job isn’t ever going to look like you want it to.

 

[2515R Dude]

After seeing the picture with the level in it, I'd say the contractor did the best job he knew how to do and his best isn't what you contracted for. That's actually quite a bad job unless it was intentional for drainage.

And the brake lines crooked for drainage as well? , not it was supposed to be level because i'll put a row of decorative bricks-retaining wall on the edge.

Not sure there is really a solution to this other than tearing it out and getting a different contractor.

You might as well go rent a mini x with a rock hammer because that job isn’t ever going to look like you want it to.

I'm already $4K ++, now mini x, a dump track, pay to the dump side, then another God know who contractor, about $10K in a 530Sqft patio. I'd say a little expensive

There is an option to overlay this with an epoxy and gravel mix. I think they call it Cool Deck and use it around swimming pools for bare feet and drainage. I'd call pool companies to see what they have available as an overlay.

I'll check this option.

 

[2515R Dude]

The real problem is, i did not want this project, but my wife always wanted it, but i was pushing it off.

Two weeks ago she was diagnosed with cancer and i wanted to make something nice to her, to let her enjoy it, she loves to sit around an outdoor fireplace in the evenings. We do it almost every evening weather permitted.

So, i wanted to bring her some joy, instead she cries every day when she sees it. And she cries even more when she sees me trying to fix it in 95-97 F on 85-90% humidity. not to mention all money spend and all the humiliation.

So, how would you like me to call this low life creature?????

 

[LD1]

I'll check this option.

Lookup nature stone

 

[Omega Woods]

You signed a contract, he didn’t perform. Don’t pay the last installment. Call a lawyer.

 

[vagem55]

You probably should have asked this on a concrete contractor website. Three pages of guys weighing in on something they know nothing about. Grind it, seriously? Pressure wash, let it wear away, just guessing. Many homes have exactly you want; I guess some guys haven't seen it. The contractor was informed and didn't know what he was doing. Nothing else will fix it. Omega Woods gave you the only true answer - you have to take him to court, sadly, if he won't redo this.

 

[teesquare]

I am retired - but owned a company that fixed concrete problems. I currently consult with architects and owners in commercial construction projects.

First - Don't panic and do something to ruin what you have. It can be made to look much more like what you desire. And - Yes, you CAN make it worse. Especially by following many of the in-experienced ( and some hare-brained ) advisements I see in this thread.

Second - contact a company called ProSoCo. They are on line. They are the biggest and best at finding ways to fix and maintain exposed aggregate as well as many other forms of decorative concrete. They will have a rep that work with commercial construction material supplies that serve your area. Find out the names of the companies that sell their products.

Third - Once you know more about how the ProSoCo cleaners, acid based detergents, and sealers work - decide if it is something you want to perform or have a contractor that specializes in this type of "cleaning up behind a slob" work do this. After cleaning - this surface will need a penetrative water repellent applied to prevent freeze/thaw spalling ( rocks popping out )

And - lastly...folks who have no actual experience in these things seem to feel empowered to get on a computer and tell someone else how to fix" a problem. They ought to be head slapped for that. And, you really should do your research for fixing this with an attorney letter to the concrete contractor - and Google. Not a discussion forum about tractors.

I will private message you my phone number and if I can be of further help - please give me a call. I feel your pain, and in honor of your wife and her diagnosis - and will do my best to answer any questions and direct you to people/places for getting this solved.

T

 

[oneal hicks]

Should not pay for such a bad job.

 

[rocco611]

pea gravel exposed aggregate is what you have, the color is different that salt and pepper .how big is the slab? looking at the pictures I don't think you will ever be happy with it. you can live with it or break it up and start over. Years ago I did an exposed aggregate patio on the 1rst house I owned. I practiced first by making some exposed aggregate pavers before I did a whole patio. I used 1" con mix then seeded and tamped in salt and pepper stones ( small black and white stones ) then sprayed sugar water over the top and gently used water and broom to expose the stones. there is a learning curve to doing exposed aggregate. it takes some practice to get it right.

 

[lilranch2001]

After seeing the picture with the level in it, I'd say the contractor did the best job he knew how to do and his best isn't what you contracted for. That's actually quite a bad job unless it was intentional for drainage. I have the same problem in my area. Not sure there is really a solution to this other than tearing it out and getting a different contractor. I've not tried muratic acid on concrete so don't know how that would work, you might try phosphoric acid. That'll eat the concrete and leave the stones, but you run the risk of undercutting the stones and they'll then become loose and be worse than what you have.

There is an option to overlay this with an epoxy and gravel mix. I think they call it Cool Deck and use it around swimming pools for bare feet and drainage. I'd call pool companies to see what they have available as an overlay.

Most epoxies will not hold up under u/v radiation….. would have to go to a urethane or something that will withstand the environment

 

[mx842]

I Feel your pain, I had the same thing happen to me when I first built my house and even now, every time I look at it i get pizzed. Yours like mine was just a shi**y job, The concrete got away from him before he applied the retarder and nothing at that point could have changed the outcome. Exposed aggregate if done right can be a beautiful thing but if it is not done right the only thing that will fix it is to rip it out and start over. That was not an option for me because I was on a budget and trying to get that guy in court would have been another waste of money. I had some people come out a few months later that said they could fix it but in the end that was just another waste of good hard-earned money.
Sorry to hear about your wife and I hope this doesn't make things worse for her. Stress is a terrible thing to deal with.

 

[kenhar]

Sandblast a corner or area off to the side to determine what pressure gives the desired results.

 

[mx842]

pea gravel exposed aggregate is what you have, the color is different that salt and pepper .how big is the slab? looking at the pictures I don't think you will ever be happy with it. you can live with it or break it up and start over. Years ago I did an exposed aggregate patio on the 1rst house I owned. I practiced first by making some exposed aggregate pavers before I did a whole patio. I used 1" con mix then seeded and tamped in salt and pepper stones ( small black and white stones ) then sprayed sugar water over the top and gently used water and broom to expose the stones. there is a learning curve to doing exposed aggregate. it takes some practice to get it right.

It doesn't matter what kind of gravel you use it all depends on what the desired color and pattern you want in the end. There are different colors and different size stone to think about and that should be relayed to the batch plant where the concrete is dispatched from.
Weather it is larger stone or pea gravel makes no difference to the concrete you work it the same. The mix is worked so that by gravity the rock settles down leaving a thin layer of pasty mud exposed just like with any type pour. At that point you have one of three options, a brushed finish, a slick finish, or the exposed aggregate look, well, there's also the stamped option but that's a whole different ball game. If you want the rock exposed, you spray on the retardant and wait until the lower-level set's up then you pressure wash the mud off leaving the desired results.
If timed and prepared correctly there is no reason any of the exposed rock should ever pop out and should last as long as any other finish would last. Of-course you would probably want to apply a resin-based sealer to the finish a day or two later to make it shine.

 

[Yanmar VIO]

I have been in the concrete industry for 40+ years. When dealing with decorative concrete, it is best to check with your local ready-mix producer or concrete tool supplier for references. We go to a lot of jobsites and we know who is good, bad, and ugly... I also encourage homeowners to go look at other jobs the contractor has done in the area. One issue with concrete is we can have the best materials, QC dept., mixes, plants, drivers, etc., but when the load leaves the plant, we don't have much control on the weather conditions or what the purchaser does with it... As a producer, we have special mixes for exposed aggregates. Those mixes have a higher percentage of pea gravel; in our area contractors don't 'seed' in materials. They are always 6 sack mixes because the smaller the rock size, the greater the surface area of the material, so more cement is required to coat that material. We offer a couple different 3/8 materials from different rock sources, which produce different colors. Concrete producers have to be careful with exposed materials because the absorption rates can be higher from some sources, leading to 'pop outs' when those materials are frozen in wet winter conditions. In the "old days", contractors who did exposed aggregate would mix up their own concoctions of sugar water, etc. About 15 years ago commercial surface retarders such as Top Cast became available. This lowered the bar, allowing a lot of the less skilled contractors to offer exposed work, or say they could do it. From the appearance of this job, this contactor is not a concrete specialist, but probably some guy who thinks he is. Those joints are not straight, and he screwed up the exposure badly-pretty much has to come out, or be topped... Personally, I prefer saw joints to tooled joints, but that requires another site visit, additional equipment, etc. Lastly, the photo you displayed as what you wanted appears to be an epoxy type job from a pool surface company, which is a different product/procedure. That may be the route to follow to get a fix on this mess, but I don't think those guys are cheap...

 

[Alan46]

Have you thought about contacting the state contractor licensing board and filing a complaint?

 

[technomill]

I would use acid to remove3 the top layer and scrub then wash off should take the residual left on those areas may have to use a wire brush to scrub but that should work but be careful with the acid and make sure to use all the precautions on the label you can find it at most hardware stores.