FEL plow vs. rear blade for 1 mile of infrequent chipseal road snow removal

[agiardin]

I live at the end of a 1 mile private road, which is chip sealed. We get anywhere between 0-3 "problematic" storms per year, usually between 4-12" of snow at a time. This doesn't seem like a lot, but it's a nightmare every time. The road has some steep parts and camber to it, with deep ditches on the side, and folks with lesser vehicles or lesser judgement always get stuck. Sometimes very stuck. After a day, the snow turns into ice and then everyone gets stuck for days and days until it melts.

Last year was particularly bad, and I used my loader bucket to clear out the worst sections of the road where people were getting stuck. This was very time consuming, and not the right tool for the job. I had to scoop it up one bucket at a time and dump it over the edge of the road. I was unable to push it anywhere, because it all clumps together and often freezes onto the inside of the bucket. It would take me all day to do the whole road.

I'd like to set my L2501 up to be able to clear these occasional storms, and I'm torn between:

• 7' rear blade with adjustable angle. Replace metal cutting edge with polyurethane strip. Let the "tilt" link on the 3 point hitch float, either by removing the link entirely or adding hydraulic top/tilt and floating the tilt valve, so that it can follow the contour of the road. Easy to find a rear blade used for $500.
• 7' quick attach snowplow attachment for front end loader, with either hydraulic or manual angle adjustment (I do have the 3rd function hydraulics). Hard to find used around here, would likely buy new.

The rear blade is definitely a cheaper option, and I get to keep my loader bucket or grapple attached for other tasks. I'm worried though that by not having my backhoe or chipper on the rear of the tractor (both at least 1200lbs) I'll be losing a lot of ballast/traction. The rear blade also doesn't have the springs of a snow plow, to give it relief if I hit an obstacle. There aren't many potential obstacles on the road, but these things happen. I'm also a little skeptical of how well the tractor will steer when pushing snow with the loader. The front end of this tractor is not particularly heavy, and I've noticed that when I'm pushing things around with the loader (stumps, piles of dirt, big rocks) it doesn't steer very well. It seems like the loader has too much leverage on the tractor, being so far out in front of the steering axle.


Thoughts? Similar experience? Any input is appreciated.

 

[sea2summit]

Rear blade 100%. You'll just destroy your FEL doing that much "plowing" with it. They are pretty good at lifting things, okay at pushing things, but horrible with any lateral forces.

 

[oldnslo]

Rear blade will also potentially push tractor sideways especially if wet heavier snow. I have frame mounted plow than drop with two pins and then hook up loader if want to push piles back. Being closer to tractor it pushes front less but will push sideways with heavy snow.

 

[TerryR]

I'd go for the rear blade, no doubt. But 12" is a bit much for your rig I think, it would be happier with 8-10". But as oldnslo says, a rear blade will definitely turn you into the ditch very quickly if you hit something too firm, like a block of frozen snow.

I run a rear blade on a JD 870, which seems to be near the weight of your tractor without the backhoe. An 18" snowbank threw me into the ditch a couple of years ago, and I broke a seal on the FEL trying to work my way out.

 

[m5guy]

Snow plow 100% better than a back blade. I've done both ways. A snowblower on the back would be better.

 

[Thomas]

Combo of both...there times front plow will load up from wet heavy snow glide above what you want to remove,drop rear plow should scrape to ground surface.

 

[TractorTYMe]

My 86'' dozer blade is not too far up front from the pins of FEL, so I do not get pushed sideways quite as bad as some that stick out further. But for this reason I also keep chains on front.

 

[Jims1025R]

I was reluctant to put a front blade on the loader of my JD 1025R, but it has worked out well. My previous JD 650 loader would not have tolerated it, but the 1025R loader seems much more stiff. I suggest looking to see if the original FEL manufacturer offers a blade for the FEL, that way you'll have an idea what they are thinking about doing that.

Blade on the front, and blower on the three point works perfectly. Blowers are not so desirable on the rear of standard transmission tractors (poor choice in blowing speeds) but with hydrostat they're fine. I plow a windrow, then blow it. The plow run is quick, the blower run is slower, but cleans up very well.

 

[LittleBittyBigJohn]

We are in about the same boat as you. My in-laws live on a crooked and steep chip-sealed road. I use their big old Alice Chamlers 170 and a rear blade. It's heavier than yours and I still have to have a good head of steam or it will just spin the tires. I would say back blade for sure, but maybe a little narrower one. The metal edge will be fine. The one I use is pretty heavy and it just slides and does no damage to the road.

 

[nybirdman]

I have and use both a front plow and rear blade;for your use a good heavy medium duty rear blade should work.Get one with off set.Three point has no down pressure and will ride up when going forward,do NOT push back-wards(if you turn the blade around),no give and something expensive could break.