Bolts To Studs On BX Front Axle

[BravoXray]

Every time I have to remove and remount a tire/sheel on the front of my BX I curse them for using bolts instead of studs. So, I bought a 12" piece of 9/16" X18 threaded rod and lug nuts to replace them. I cut the rod into eight 1 1/2" long pieces and cleaned up the threads on the ends and made sure the nuts threaded on freely. This afternoon, I picked up the front of the tractor and pulled each wheel and installed the studs with a liberal amount of blue Loctite, let it set up, applied some antisieze to the threads and bolted the wheels back on. Now I can just line up the studs and holes, slip the wheel on and torque down the nuts with no profane language.
Yes, I see the bulge in the sidewall of the tire, it's coming back off on Monday and will be replaced.

 

[ptsg]

Good job. These days, most brands just include two studs for this exact purpose.

 

[WranglerX]

Then there is this....
(Edited for more direct lug nut, lug bolt, stud information)

https://www.dormanproducts.com/flipbook/dorman/wheel-hardware/dor75803-1.pdf

 

[BravoXray]

Then there is this....

Dorman Wheel Hardware - Studs, Lug Nuts & More - Dorman Products

From studs to lug nuts, Dorman’s wheel hardware offers unmatched coverage and quality. Shop our selection of heavy-duty hardware for your next repair job.

www.dormanproducts.com

The nuts I used are from Dorman.

 

[dstig1]

Just hoping that isn't hardware store threaded rod as that is likely only grade 2 or worse. I would want grade 5 for sure for this. Grade 8 might be too brittle, but the best bet would be to check what was on there from the factory and get comparable grades (metric grades are different but you can cross them close enough to english).

But yes, I agree that bolts on wheels are awful. My Kubota has 2 studs and the rest bolts as PTSG notes, but my 2 German cars are all bolts, and changing winter to summer tires is very annoying.

 

[ptsg]

I would expect the original bolts to be 10.9 grade. There maybe be markings on them.

Leaving this here for reference:

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[BleedingOrange]

Great ideas, for a frustrating job getting the wheels back on. For the few times I have had my wheels off, when putting them back on I use my largest philips screwdriver to help guide the rim close to the correct position, and then screw in the first bolt on the opposite side .

 

[tacticalturnip]

I've always wondered the reason for not using studs, at least two; is it a cost savings?

 

[BravoXray]

Just hoping that isn't hardware store threaded rod as that is likely only grade 2 or worse. I would want grade 5 for sure for this. Grade 8 might be too brittle, but the best bet would be to check what was on there from the factory and get comparable grades (metric grades are different but you can cross them close enough to english).

I bought the rod from McMaster-Carr, they listed the specs at grade B7 and tensile strength as 125,000psi, so I think it will do the job just fine.

Besides, you'd never find 9/16" X 18 tpi rod at a hardware store. I doubt you could even find 9/16" bolts, period.

 

[BravoXray]

I've always wondered the reason for not using studs, at least two; is it a cost savings?

Could be, only one part instead of two.

 

[BravoXray]

Great ideas, for a frustrating job getting the wheels back on. For the few times I have had my wheels off, when putting them back on I use my largest philips screwdriver to help guide the rim close to the correct position, and then screw in the first bolt on the opposite side .

I had made a couple of studs from old 9/16" bolts I had in the bin, and that helped the last couple of times I had one off, but decided to install studs and be done with it.

I had those bolts because International Harvester used to use them on a lot of their construction equipment. A good case for keeping old obsolete stuff for 40 or 50 years, you just might need it some day.

 

[LittleBill21]

be aware there is an orange loctite now, that is as strong as red, but can be removed like blue

Amazon.com

 

[dstig1]

I bought the rod from McMaster-Carr, they listed the specs at grade B7 and tensile strength as 125,000psi, so I think it will do the job just fine.

Besides, you's never find 9/16" X 18 tpi rod at a hardware store. I doubt you could even find 9/16" bolts, period.

Yeah the farm store would have that size but your typical Ace sure wouldn't. McMaster is one of the best resources around for good quality stuff delivered fast. But I was surprised it wasn't metric.

 

[ptsg]

Please correct me if I am wrong, but did you use 9/16" 18 threaded rod on what is most likely M14x1.5 threads? Surely Kubota uses metric bolts at the wheels, right?

 

[newbury]

A good case for keeping old obsolete stuff for 40 or 50 years, you just might need it some day.

That's what I tell my wife!

 

[newbury]

From the groan thread:

 

[BravoXray]

Please correct me if I am wrong, but did you use 9/16" 18 threaded rod on what is most likely M14x1.5 threads? Surely Kubota uses metric bolts at the wheels, right?

No, Messicks lists them as 9/16" not metric. Who knows why Kubota would use an odd size like that, except that maybe 9/16" is more common on farm machinery.
9/16" is larger than 14mm and 18tpi is a finer pitch, about 1.4mm, so I doubt it would even start in a 14mm X 1.5 threaded hole.

Kubota #K2561-18212 BOLT, WHEEL 9/16

 

[ptsg]

No, Messicks lists them as 9/16" not metric. Who knows why Kubota would use an odd size like that, except that maybe 9/16" is more common on farm machinery.
9/16" is larger than 14mm and 18tpi is a finer pitch, about 1.4mm, so I doubt it would even start in a 14mm X 1.5 threaded hole.

Kubota #K2561-18212 BOLT, WHEEL 9/16

Oh interesting. Thanks for clarifying that for me.

 

[bigrackHack]

I've always wondered the reason for not using studs, at least two; is it a cost savings?

I suspect it's an issue where the back of the hub doesn't have clearance for the head and knurl. The vast majority of cars we get in the shop have wheel studs, but some European imports insist on using stupid stud bolts. Those cars get the same cussing as when having to balance an implement tire on your toes while trying to start a stud bolt underneath a tandem or cotton trailer while trying to center the hub. There's a lot of cussing around here.

 

[LouNY]

Fortunately all my tractors have at least 2 studs to aid in lining up the rims to the hubs. My wife's Jeep Liberty has all wheel bolts after the first time of swapping her summer and winter tires around I went to town and got a couple of metric bolts the correct thread and cut the heads off and saw cut a slot for a screw driver in the end. I use them as alignment studs to get the wheels hung and then remove them and use the lug bolts.