House framer/builders, Roof question(s)

   / House framer/builders, Roof question(s)
  • Thread Starter
#11  
You are tearing off the existing trusses when the weather gets better? Visit the good lumber yard or truss company for ideas. Hips an valleys are opportunities for expense and leaks.

On our house I have a 30x36 footprint with the rafters spanning the 30 foot. 36 is east to west. The 22x22 too small garage attaches on the west side of the 36 wide with a setback at the front of the house. Front porch is 36'. North wall is 48 feet long. If I ever commit to building a proper garage the 22x22 becomes a great room with hopefully a laundry room and a half bath. That frees up the former laundry room to become a closet.
You are correct (full gut and new roof).... 35 year old house with the chicken coop metal roof- I don't like valleys either but will have to to opposite intersecting roof-lines.
 
   / House framer/builders, Roof question(s)
  • Thread Starter
#12  
If you stay with the same pitch on both the house and garage, the house ridge line will be higher due to the width of the structure. I added hip roofs all around as it looked a bit better to my eye but gables would work as well. Scissor trusses can be designed to give you the interior pick you require.
I am digging your solution... varying the pitch would solve the (bump out) depicted in your image.
 

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   / House framer/builders, Roof question(s)
  • Thread Starter
#13  
How much snow and ice load do you get in Georgia?

I'm not sure about different slopes. However, 8/12 sounds fairly steep. When you get up close to a 45° angle, the roof gets very uncomfortable to walk on.
You are correct. Besides the snow load "which isn't formidable", running the a pitch such as this will allow for both a nice vault inside to feel bigger (than it is) as well as ease HVAC trunk lines which will be installed in the ceiling.. I certainly will not be climbing up there; leaving that to the professionals!
 
   / House framer/builders, Roof question(s)
  • Thread Starter
#14  
Personally I would never go over 6/12 if I intended to be on the roof myself. I'm not sure why you would have problems with 4/12. Roofed properly that should give a long roofing life.
The wife wants a vaulted ceiling... She is the boss! I am certainly not getting on the roof
 
   / House framer/builders, Roof question(s)
  • Thread Starter
#15  
You are tearing off the existing trusses when the weather gets better? Visit the good lumber yard or truss company for ideas. Hips an valleys are opportunities for expense and leaks.

On our house I have a 30x36 footprint with the rafters spanning the 30 foot. 36 is east to west. The 22x22 too small garage attaches on the west side of the 36 wide with a setback at the front of the house. Front porch is 36'. North wall is 48 feet long. If I ever commit to building a proper garage the 22x22 becomes a great room with hopefully a laundry room and a half bath. That frees up the former laundry room to become a closet.
I have a (shop) - but was told by my family that "I needed a 3 car garage"! Just to keep our cars out of the weather... Wife explained that there will be nothing in there but cars..... I said - beer fridge is not a car, she agreed. I will be visiting the truss company this week. Weather is terrible in Ga and pretty much across the entire country. I need to get my ducks in a row so that I am prepared this coming (spring/summer). Wife and I are going to try and gut and prep house for the final removal of the roof. lots of work to do before the roof gets pulled this summer.
 
   / House framer/builders, Roof question(s)
  • Thread Starter
#16  
Why not move the new bathroom and closets to the left side of the house, where the two bedrooms are?
Eddie,
The house plumbing is below grade (slab), I picked this side of the house for that reason. access to water and sewer will be only feet away from the addition. This will save time and money as I will not have to bore under the slab or cut the existing concrete floor of the house. Good catch!
The builder in you is leaking out!
 
   / House framer/builders, Roof question(s) #17  
One of the things when doing vaulted ceilings is what Dad used to call the elevator shaft effect.

So you won't want a tiny bathroom with a 20 foot ceiling.

Lofts or storage?
 
   / House framer/builders, Roof question(s)
  • Thread Starter
#18  
One of the things when doing vaulted ceilings is what Dad used to call the elevator shaft effect.

So you won't want a tiny bathroom with a 20 foot ceiling.

Lofts or storage?
No loft or vault in the "small spaces" however, it would be possible........ gotta save somewhere and this little bit of cheating in those spaces will save a bundle on drywall and such with the dropped ceiling in those areas. But not (a real dropped ceiling) per say, I am not fond of office ceiling look!
 
   / House framer/builders, Roof question(s) #19  
Eddie,
The house plumbing is below grade (slab), I picked this side of the house for that reason. access to water and sewer will be only feet away from the addition. This will save time and money as I will not have to bore under the slab or cut the existing concrete floor of the house. Good catch!
The builder in you is leaking out!
Neither are that hard to run. My way of thinking is if it's something that I really want, or if it's going to give me the best results, then I'm going to do the extra effort.

I'm currently working on a 3 car garage addition. It's 30 feet deep and 42 feet wide. It has 3 ten foot doors. It's huge!!! We also added on a 12 foot by 30 foot room between the house and the garage that my wife will use for washing and drying our dogs, plus we're going to put our exercise equipment in there. It's been a freakishly slow project, but it's slowly moving forward.

When we decided that we needed a garage, we spent a couple years going through our different ideas, working through the latest, greatest version, only to realize it wasn't that great of a plan, and then we started all over again. There where three plans that we almost committed to, but eventually, we came up with this plan.

Consider every option, don't rule anything out just because one part of it doesn't seem doable. I think your roof plan the way you drew your plan is a lot harder to do then moving the plumbing around.
 
   / House framer/builders, Roof question(s)
  • Thread Starter
#20  
Neither are that hard to run. My way of thinking is if it's something that I really want, or if it's going to give me the best results, then I'm going to do the extra effort.

I'm currently working on a 3 car garage addition. It's 30 feet deep and 42 feet wide. It has 3 ten foot doors. It's huge!!! We also added on a 12 foot by 30 foot room between the house and the garage that my wife will use for washing and drying our dogs, plus we're going to put our exercise equipment in there. It's been a freakishly slow project, but it's slowly moving forward.

When we decided that we needed a garage, we spent a couple years going through our different ideas, working through the latest, greatest version, only to realize it wasn't that great of a plan, and then we started all over again. There where three plans that we almost committed to, but eventually, we came up with this plan.

Consider every option, don't rule anything out just because one part of it doesn't seem doable. I think your roof plan the way you drew your plan is a lot harder to do then moving the plumbing around.
I agree. Having gone though (several floor plans) we are both happy with the one (she chose) family swayed the extra length of the garage!
You making a 12x30... Then busting off a 30x40 garage... Wow, you aren't messing around! Options are important, this is why I posted this thread; insight from all of you is important as folks will analyze and think sometimes outside the box!
We are without a doubt going to see a truss company, Perhaps with "store bought trusses" they will engineer a solution.
 

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