How bad/critical are these leaks? Kubota B3200

[rScotty]

I bet the front axle will be OK. Most of them leak a little.

I still want to find that vent for the rear housing. They are often plugged by mud, and that can cause that rear axle seep. A rear axle or rear brake leak is not as common as a front axle leak. There is also a shaft running from the transmission forward to the front axle which can also leak..

Just keep an eye on levels. None of it is critical. Too often the repair creates more problems that a small leak.

 

[Forest_Man]

Cleaning up some missed posts:

Yes, in post #6 the group 150 is the front axle vent. Nice if they have it. There should be a tube running up inside the front cowling to keep the vent out of rain and above water.

In post #7, those are the seals which seem to be leaking. There is also a seal where the stub axle sticks out to bolt the wheel onto. When that one leaks, it is more serious - partly because it is down low, but mostly because a leak there implies axle bearing wear.

I think that 3/4 fill and a change to 80/90 multiweight gear oil will slow that steering leak a lot.

Draining and filling the front axle housing can take overnight. The thicker oil has to make it's way past some very small clearances. It takesn time.

I had no idea. So whenever I am doing an oil change, I have to plan for overnight draining? Also true for the engine?

You can remove extra oil with a syringe and rubber tube. Design-wise, my preference for the perfect level of oil for the front axle would be just touching then bottom of the horizontal rotating shaft that you can see through the fill hole.

Very clear! Thank you!

I always check the oil cold. It's not all that critical for heat or level. I like to run at about 3/4 full on the reservoirs. There is still plenty of oil to be thrown around for lube without drowning the seals. The transmission level looks perfect. Always check level with dipstick pushed in.
luck,
rScotty

 

[rScotty]

Engine oil drains quickly, so does the Trans/hydraulic oil. Besides, you can never get all of either. So just drain and fill. No overnight and no waiting.

The front axle 80/90 gear lube is more viscous than the lighter trans/hydraulic oil. And it doesn't have a clearly defined flow path. So what happens is that instead of oil moving through dedicated passages or simply filling a sump, that front axle level relies on oil slowly passing through some small bearing clearances to get to where it is going. That is why it takes longer to drain and to fill.

 

[5030]

First thing I'd do is invest in even a cheap pressure washer and give it a good bath so you can really see where it's leaking at. That tractor is an abomination of filth.

 

[rScotty]

First thing I'd do is invest in even a cheap pressure washer and give it a good bath so you can really see where it's leaking at. That tractor is an abomination of filth.

Come on now... admit you're jealous. That is some seriously good grade A sticky clay. Even in west Texas it's hard to find a clay that will stick like that. :}

 

[5030]

Come on now... admit you're jealous. That is some seriously good grade A sticky clay. Even in west Texas it's hard to find a clay that will stick like that. :}

No, I'm not. You would never find any tractor on this place with that amount of crud on it posted up on any website where everyone could see.

 

[5030]

This one is 'real filthy'

 

[5030]

So is this one...

 

[5030]

Here is the business end of the last one just in from cutting... Real dirty...lol

 

[Forest_Man]

No, I'm not. You would never find any tractor on this place with that amount of crud on it posted up on any website where everyone could see.

This is not accurate my friend. And to show you the absurdity of your monochromatic assumption, here is post of a very dirty tractor, on this same forum:

Dirty Kubota on TBN