KIOTI CK2610 fluid advice

[Too many Kubotas]

All of the approved Kioti fluids listed are also listed as JD20C compatible; not a 100% proof, but if your fluid you picked up meets JD20C, you're fine. Unless you believe that Daedong uses something so proprietary in the hydraulic system that only the 4 specific fluids are the only thing that will work.

No, I think there are several good options, but not that Lucas is necessarily one of them.

Apples and oranges to some extent, but when Lucas consistently places towards the bottom in fuel additive tests, I suspect that its other fluids may not be among the best, either.

After all, there's much more to good products than lots of advertising.

 

[Taryn]

Very informative post. Thanks to everyone for the input, and thanks to the OP for helping two newbie tractor owners.

My 2510 came with hydraulic in the front axle as well, and there is nothing in the owner's manual about it. I was told it was for the break in period. The dealer mentioned it ahead of time.

 

[D&D]

Well, saying it's suitable isn't quite the same as actually meeting spec in many cases. Amsoil is probably the most common example of that debate.

They have to meet or exceed the specification to claim it is suitable.
Does anyone really think their legal team has not thought that through?

 

[Too many Kubotas]

They have to meet or exceed the specification to claim it is suitable.
Does anyone really think their legal team has not thought that through?

I'm sure their counsel has thought about it.

But I'm not so sure that smaller oil companies in general necessarily meets, let alone exceeds, any standards before claiming their product is suitable for a given application.

 

[D&D]

You guys crack me up. Brand snobs that try so hard to justify why your choice is superior.

 

[ODZD]

Alright, finally performed the service this weekend and now she won't start up... Please help a very not mechanically inclined guy out.. Is the oil the wrong kind and if so, did I just nuke my engine or can I simply drain and refill with correct oil?

I changed the engine oil + filter, air filter, and fuel filter (and primed). I still need to do the axle oil and hydraulic oil + filters.

https://imgur.com/a/a4UGBsr

- Oil + Filters used.

- Video during start up

I tossed the battery on a trickle charge but hoping it's just a battery issue by dumb luck. I don't see any leaks near the oil filter, oil drain plugs, or the fuel filter.

 

[Coyote_CS2220]

From watching your video it appears to be a priming issue (air in the system) from changing your the fuel filter.
Prime it again until you get the air out.

 

[LouNY]

I believe that you are air bound, you need to do a full air bleed on the system. To the pump and then to the injectors.

 

[ODZD]

From watching your video it appears to be a priming issue (air in the system) from changing our the fuel filter.
Prime it again until you get the air out.

Never worked on a diesel mostly just my lawn mower and small stuff. How many times do I need to push the primer? Can I overdo it?

 

[Coyote_CS2220]

There are a couple of videos on Youtube to walk you thru it.

Here is one

 

[ODZD]

There are a couple of videos on Youtube to walk you thru it.

Here is one

Think that’s an Amazon link or at least that’s what I’m getting. But looks like open the vent a bit and pump, close vent and pump.

 

[Coyote_CS2220]

Ya I fix the link - it is correct now.

Do a youtube search for the fuel filter replacement on the CK2610.......there are several.

Un-used fuel from the injection system should go back to the fuel tank so you cannot over prime the system.

Any air in the system between the filter and the injectors means there is no fuel to inject into the cylinders. Pumps are designed pump liquids - air not so much. That is why there is a manual priming pump on the filter.

 

[ODZD]

Ya I fix the link - it is correct now.

Do a youtube search for the fuel filter replacement on the CK2610.......there are several.

Un-use fuel from the injection system should go back to the fuel tank so you cannot over prime the system.

Any air in the system between the filter and the injectors means there is no fuel to inject into the cylinders. Pumps are designed pump liquids - air not so much. That is why there is a manual priming pump on the filter.

Thank you so much! Primed the fuel filter and she fired up!

Any chance you know if that oil I used is within spec? Or do I need to dump it?

 

[Coyote_CS2220]

Rotella 15W40 T5 is good stuff year round if you store it indoors in winter.

Your USED oil can be used as a fire starter on burn piles or take it to recycle.

The first time you do stuff is a learning experience.

After you get the fluids changed out check the levels after a 1/2 to 1 hour of use and top up if needed or if you overfilled (easy to do), then drain some out to get the correct level.

2nd service will be easier.

Cheers!

 

[Billrog]

I put Rotella 15W40 T5 in my dump truck once the oil activated lifters hammered so bad i drained so I can't say it's good stuff just always happens to be on sale.

 

[ODZD]

Rotella 15W40 T5 is good stuff year round if you store it indoors in winter.

Your USED oil can be used as a fire starter on burn piles or take it to recycle.

The first time you do stuff is a learning experience.

After you get the fluids changed out check the levels after a 1/2 to 1 hour of use and top up if needed or if you overfilled (easy to do), then drain some out to get the correct level.

2nd service will be easier.

Cheers!

Much appreciated! I was worried after reading the book I may have gotten the wrong oil. I truly appreciate all of the advice and knowledge! thank you, hopefully this thread can help other new tractor owners in the future!

Yupp, I keep the used oil for fire starter around the property.

 

[Coyote_CS2220]

I don't get too wound up on oil brand names and over the years have no brand loyalty.

I just go with the latest API (American Petroleum Institute) diesel engine rating which currently is CK-4. The last rating CJ-4 is good too.

I most often buy Walmart 15W40 SuperTec when it is on sale and if you look on the back it is API rated CK-4.

For better or worse I just go with the least expensive with the most recent API rating and change out more frequently. Since my little machine only needs ~3.5 litres I go with no more than 40 to 50hours or 6months - which ever comes first and is convenient timing (got nothing else pressing on the go).

Hard to go wrong with changing out more frequently.

 

[paulsharvey]

She'll Rotella is what pretty much everyone uses in heavy trucks and equipment, and it's fine. If the Providence or whatever RK sells is cheaper, I use that, but at like $40/2.5 gal the Rotella is fine and cheap enough.

If it's the hydralic our OP is concerned with, it's fine.

 

[Too many Kubotas]

It's not really good to switch brands. The additive packages don't always play well together.

Unless, somehow, all the old oil is out of there.

 

[Kioti Sal]

Religion, politics, and oil weight/brand.
Those are the things you should never talk about with anyone but your very closest friends. As it always leads to a fight.

With that being said, I have to respectfully disagree about switching motor oil brands. Thats an old wives tale. Just like switching from dino to synthetic or vice versa shouldn't be done. Unless its an old school engine without an oil filter, pick the right weight for your climate (see the manual) and buy any quality brand. You'll never go wrong. (And if the manual says use full synthetic, do that too.)

Now if you were talking about hydraulic fluid, I retract my statement as my knowledge there is limited.