John Deere 5205 Top Link Repair

[deere5105]

Recently picked up a JD 5205. Noticed the top link didn't seem to work as it should and found one end turning, but not going in or out. I am using another one for now, but would like to repair the original part if possible. Have looked quite a bit and do not find any good info on taking these apart. I found the top link I have on JD Parts. Here is an image of both the JD Parts page and my link. Seems like the end that does thread in and out stops when it gets so far out.

Any ideas or suggestions on how to get the end that threads in and out and the one that appears stripped out?

 

[beenthere]

Each end should screw out. Puzzled what you mean by "not going in or out". If true, then threads must be stripped, which is hard to believe.

 

[deere5105]

Each end should screw out. Puzzled what you mean by "not going in or out". If true, then threads must be stripped, which is hard to believe.

If you look at the picture of the link you can see how much of the threads are showing on each end. One end is extended almost all the way out and runs in and out. The other end spins but does not extend from or retract into the tube. Acts as if it is stripped. If is just the end damaged would like to replace it and be able to use the original link.

 

[ruffdog]

It looks like there is a two small plugs on the side of the center section. I wonder if those come out to expose a roll pin or stop pin in the threaded sections????

 

[deere5105]

It looks like there is a two small plugs on the side of the center section. I wonder if those come out to expose a roll pin or stop pin in the threaded sections????

Would they typically be threaded in or just pressed in? Never attempted to take one apart.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

I w

If you look at the picture of the link you can see how much of the threads are showing on each end. One end is extended almost all the way out and runs in and out. The other end spins but does not extend from or retract into the tube. Acts as if it is stripped. If is just the end damaged would like to replace it and be able to use the original link.

I would guess that a good aftermarket top link will be less $$ than the OEM replacement part.

 

[deere5105]

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I would guess that a good aftermarket top link will be less $$ than the OEM replacement part.

You would be correct. Any one of the parts is more than an entire aftermarket assembly.

I have a replacement I am using. Would like to see if could get this one back working.

 

[deere5105]

After more investigation I found a rubber plug on each side of each end of the original link. The left end goes in and out as it should. The right end appears to be run all the way out. It is far enough you can see through both holes. Once it makes a couple of turns and blocks seeing through the holes it gets tight and doesn’t want to turn any more. Couldn’t see well enough to tell if was a roll pin or something in the end to drive out to be able to unscrew it all the way out.

 

[ruffdog]

I guess I would wire brush the exposed threads and flood it with a penetration oil and keep working at it. Good luck.

 

[Quebecguy]

I tried unscrewing the ends of the top link that came with my 5205 when I bought it new in 2006 and the ends unscrewed easily. I think your link took a heck of a bang at some point and ruined some of the threads. Are those rubber plugs perhaps filling in threaded holes for grease fittings?

 

[deere5105]

I tried unscrewing the ends of the top link that came with my 5205 when I bought it new in 2006 and the ends unscrewed easily. I think your link took a heck of a bang at some point and ruined some of the threads. Are those rubber plugs perhaps filling in threaded holes for grease fittings?

Thank you for sharing this pic. My unit is a 2004, but can't imagine much change in the top links. I am not sure if the plugged holes are threaded. Will have to get better lighting and check closer. I also have access to a much larger and more secure vise. May have time this weekend to see if can get it locked down and get better leverage on it and see if can turn it on out. Knowing there was nothing in yours that had to be removed or driven out to get the link ends to come all the way out is very good information!

 

[beenthere]

You said in the OP

found one end turning, but not going in or out.

That indicates that the threads are stripped.

Different if one end is stuck and not turning.

Hope you let us know if locking it down tight will get the end to turn out.

 

[5030]

Go buy a new one at any farm related store. TSC sells them everyday. Not expensive so toss your old one and buy a new one. Much easier. JD dealer will ream you btw.

 

[deere5105]

You said in the OP

That indicates that the threads are stripped.

Different if one end is stuck and not turning.

Hope you let us know if locking it down tight will get the end to turn out.

After closer inspection last night I was able to determine that it does appear to be going "in", but not far. After removing the plugs I could look through the holes and tell it would go back in enough to block them. Movement may be 1/2" to 3/4".

I don't care to spend several hundred dollars on it, but if is just a matter of a little extra help I would like to get it back working.

 

[deere5105]

Go buy a new one at any farm related store. TSC sells them everyday. Not expensive so toss your old one and buy a new one. Much easier. JD dealer will ream you btw.

I do have a replacement in use now, but would like to get this one back going if nothing major. When I looked at the individual component prices on JD Parts I about fell out!

 

[Yander]

Get yourself a rear remote and replace it with a hydraulic top link. Like A/C once you get used to that you will never be without it.

 

[deere5105]

Was able to dig into this a little more this evening. Bigger vise, little penetrating oil and cheater pipe allowed for backing both ends all the way out. Turns out there was a roll pin in each end, but was able to back all the way out anyway. With more penetrating oil was able to thread both all the way in which required more cheater pipe at times. End result is back in service. I believe continued use and lubricant will help it get even better in time. I can remember the top link seeming to be froze up 15+ years ago when I borrowed this tractor from original owner. Guessing it just needed some elbow grease and using.

 

[deere5105]

Here are pics along the way.

 

[Quebecguy]

So there was a change in top links between 2004 and 2006 - mine certainly has no roll pins. Although on mine there are bosses on the main casting where there are holes in yours, mine isn't drilled through to allow installation of the pins. I like your attitude of repairing something if possible rather than just scrapping it as others have suggested. Thanks for posting the update.

 

[kneedeep]

Being hard to turn could be from it getting bent and straightened back.
I was boxblading once and pushing hard, had the cheap top link bend some. I did have it run out to dozer the blade.
After straightening it never worked smooth. Sold with tractor.