16.9-30 vs 18.4-30 Tire for JD 5410 Tractor in N. Michigan

[landrand]

Last week I bought a 1998 John Deere 5410 tractor (MFWD Front) for my homestead here in Northern Michigan. The tractor is in really nice shape, but I'm a bit concerned about the existing tire's traction in sandy soil and the snow we get here during the winter. The tractor has rear 16.9 x 30 R-1 tractor tires on Titan-USA 30xDW14 8 position adjustable rims and front 11.2-24 on Titan-USA 24xW10 adjustable rim. The tires are Firestone's Tractor Field & Road Bias ply and they are original. Although the tires are in decent shape, I'm a bit concerned about their traction in my area. Yesterday, I used the tractor to move some round hay bales and do a little front end loader work, and a few times I noticed the tire's traction was not the best. I have areas that are 100% sand and the tires occasionally did spin in the sandy soil. I'm also a bit concerned about the tires when used during the winter. I'd be using the tractor to plow/clear snow on an 1.5 acre corral for my cows.

I local is selling a set of relatively new (50 hours) Firestone Performer 85 radial 18.4 x 30 R-1W rear tires and 12.2 x 24 fronts and I'm thinking of buying and using on my tractor. It appears I would be able to use the 12.2 x 24 tires on my existing 24 x W10 front rims, but I would need to find and buy rear 15" or 16" rims for the wider 18.2 x 30 rear tires. My research indicates that the existing 14" wide rims is not ideally suited for the wider tires.

Was wondering what the guru's think about migrating to wider radial tires? It's going to cost me a couple thousand dollars, and the time to find wider rear rims, so I would like to have some idea if it would be worth it. I've never used a large tractor with R-1/R-1W tires in the snow so any input or recommendations would be appreciated.

 

[5030]

Tires look fine to me. One thing to keep in mind if you do change them is the 'lead-lag' ratio in as much as it's FWA. You must stay in the proper ratio or you'll destroy the front drive axle. If you have an owners manual or if you contact a dealer, they will explain the 'lead-lag' ratio to you.

 

[landrand]

Yes, I found info about the lead-lag issue you are talking about. My manual says I can use 18.4-30 and 12.2-30 on my tractor, but I want to do the calculations as well. I have the vin numbers and other info for my front axle and transmission as well as the Firestone tire specs. Thanks for the info!

 

[Rustyiron]

Did the tractor have an implement on the back when you observed the slippage in the sand while loading the bucket?
It doesn't take much weight in the bucket to displace a little sand bareback. I'd save the bigger tires money and get some tire chains for the snow clearing and hang something heavy on the 3pt for the sand.

 

[landrand]

The tractor only had a 3 point hitch empty bale spear on the back. I have a box blade, maybe I'll put that on the back and see how well it does with some weight on the back.

 

[WM75Guy]

When I did round bale work for our horses I had one on the 3PT for ballast and moved the ones I needed the FEL. Then I dropped the one off the 3PT hitch for the last bale I needed to feed. Made it feel a whole lot more stable.

 

[5030]

You should be able to purchase cast weights for the rear rims. What I run on my Kubota's. They each weigh about 700 pounds each.

I might add that I rarely have anything on the back end when loading or transporting big rounds as the cast weights provide enough 'ballast' and I don't load tires either. I do have a 3 point hitch bale spear however so when I'm 'marshalling rounds in the fields, I'll stab a round on the rear spear and on the front spear as well and collect them that way, makes for a faster collection. Have a hitch ball welded to the top of the rear spear so I can tote around the GN trailer as well. Saves cranking the landing gear up and down, I just pick up the GN until the landing pads clear and go about my business.

 

[J&K]

Last week I bought a 1998 John Deere 5410 tractor (MFWD Front) for my homestead here in Northern Michigan. The tractor is in really nice shape, but I'm a bit concerned about the existing tire's traction in sandy soil and the snow we get here during the winter. The tractor has rear 16.9 x 30 R-1 tractor tires on Titan-USA 30xDW14 8 position adjustable rims and front 11.2-24 on Titan-USA 24xW10 adjustable rim. The tires are Firestone's Tractor Field & Road Bias ply and they are original. Although the tires are in decent shape, I'm a bit concerned about their traction in my area. Yesterday, I used the tractor to move some round hay bales and do a little front end loader work, and a few times I noticed the tire's traction was not the best. I have areas that are 100% sand and the tires occasionally did spin in the sandy soil. I'm also a bit concerned about the tires when used during the winter. I'd be using the tractor to plow/clear snow on an 1.5 acre corral for my cows.

I local is selling a set of relatively new (50 hours) Firestone Performer 85 radial 18.4 x 30 R-1W rear tires and 12.2 x 24 fronts and I'm thinking of buying and using on my tractor. It appears I would be able to use the 12.2 x 24 tires on my existing 24 x W10 front rims, but I would need to find and buy rear 15" or 16" rims for the wider 18.2 x 30 rear tires. My research indicates that the existing 14" wide rims is not ideally suited for the wider tires.

Was wondering what the guru's think about migrating to wider radial tires? It's going to cost me a couple thousand dollars, and the time to find wider rear rims, so I would like to have some idea if it would be worth it. I've never used a large tractor with R-1/R-1W tires in the snow so any input or recommendations would be appreciated.

Like I said in JD forum I have no problems with R1's in snow and would have the rears loaded or buy chains instead of another set of tires

 

[5030]

If your unit is FWA, traction on any surface should not be an issue, I don't follow your reasoning. If it's not, then I can understand. For what I do, R1's are the only tires I'd run.

 

[deserteagle71]

When lifting moving heavy weight with the front end loader (bucket or forks) make sure your front axle is engaged. That's what I have to do with my Kubota or the rear tires just spin. If whatever you lift is so heavy the rear tires are coming off the ground then put something heavy on the 3 point hitch.

 

[5030]

My ongoing philosophy is...

If the rear tires are coming off the ground, lighten the load on-in the bucket because, tractors have no suspension compensation so when the rears come off the ground, it only takes a wee bit more to cause SERIOUS pucker factor and or an upset.

 

[ericm979]

Ballast on the rear hitch will help a lot. As would wheel weights or loaded tires. What pressure are the rear tires at? I lowered the R4s on my Branson from 25 psi to 15 and it's an improvement in traction on our sandy soil.

 

[CoyPatton]

The tractor only had a 3 point hitch empty bale spear on the back. I have a box blade, maybe I'll put that on the back and see how well it does with some weight on the back.

Personally in dry sand, I would expect to experience sand slippage under all conditions. Loose soil in general allows slippage. Moist sand (not wet) will reduce slippage.

 

[CoyPatton]

The tractor only had a 3 point hitch empty bale spear on the back. I have a box blade, maybe I'll put that on the back and see how well it does with some weight on the back.

Personally in dry sand, I would expect to experience sand slippage under all conditions. Loose soil in general allows slippage. Moist sand (not wet) will reduce slippage.

 

[Rmart30]

whats the optional radial tire sizes? The radials usually have a flatter tread profile putting more tread width to the ground. Or could install R14's.

 

[JLinOK]

If I am on an uneven surface, especially if I am going uphill, I lock the rear diff. with the pedal back from the accelerator. That usually does the trick. Stopped or just inching withe the clutch will help it engage. Naturally, I engage the front axle as well.

 

[kenhar]

Wider tires on snow and ice will lessen your traction unless the tire gets to soft ground where it can dig in. Good traction in ice and snow comes from weight per square inch on the tires. That's why the old VW bugs could go about anywhere on their narrow tires.

 

[houdel]

What kenhar was saying. Sand and snow are two different things with different needs for optimum performance. Sand essentially has no bottom so you want a wide tire to float on the sand and good traction blocks to pack the sand for added traction instead of digging down and burying the tire. That is why the four wheeler Jeep types air down their tires when they go from road to sand, to have a wider footprint on the sand. Snow is just the opposite. Snow is wet and slippery so the tire just slides over the snow instead of gaining much traction when floating on the snow. For snow you want a narrow tire to dig down to the road surface and get it's traction from the underlying surface. Your best bet is to get the wider tires if you really need them for the sand, but keep the narrow wheels and tires for wintertime snow operations.

 

[RayIN]

The tractor only had a 3 point hitch empty bale spear on the back. I have a box blade, maybe I'll put that on the back and see how well it does with some weight on the back.

Check out Goodyear/Titan R14 drive tires.

Mounting my 6' box blade makes a world of difference in drive tire performance for my tractor; and my R1 tires are ½-full of calcium chloride solution. Then again; 2,000# in my FEL

transfers a lot of weight.

 

[sixdogs]

I did a similar switch on my JD5520 but used a higher end Firestone tire and got phenomenal results. I floated over sensitive areas like septic systems and had much improved pulling power in the field. Pictures of that tractor and tires are posted here so search if interested. Impressive tires and pics.

I like Firestone radials and on a similar Kubota tractor I had I used the lower cost, entry level Performer radial. One of them developed a flat spot after sitting over the winter and Firestone gave my dealer a hard time about a warranty replacement. I was told they didn't want to do it despite low hours.

The dealer finally took it in trade and I got a new tire. Bottom line is that I "love" Firestone radials but maybe just "like" the Performer radial. Check it out. Also, if you do get them, inflate to maybe 20 or 22 psi over the winter when they could develop a flat spot. I also kept mine inflated to maybe 17-19psi in the summer. FYI