25hp primarily for mowing?

[Sid Post]

My first question is are they all tested the same?

Same test standard ?

Same location on the tractor test ie flywheel vs PTO output and so on

Nebraska tests are standardized for an Apples to Apples comparison. Most of the time, I look at TractorData and follow their link to the Nebraska tractor test data.

 

[WinterDeere]

You still need good weight to run a rotary "bush hog" mower safely. If you don't have a good BALANCE of weight to power, your tractor isn't going to work well for you.

I have this issue when I run some real heavy implements (plug aerator) on the 3-point with the loader removed. But my tractor has a weight bar as the front "bumper", so I just hang a few suitcase weights there, and problem solved.

I actually like having a light tractor (3500# / 33 hp), because it gives me the flexibility to ballast it as needed for each task, without being so heavy it does massive lawn damage when I want to run light.

 

[Jaybr]

My CK35 lifts motors just fine, and I pull a 5' rotary cutter with it with no issue. The 25hp tractors I am considering have roughly the same weight and lift capacity, so i'm not worried about it being able to lift what I need. My question was more around the HP requirements of a flail mower, and how that compares to a rotary. From the comments it sounds like I need more than 25hp to run a 6' flail, so I'll look at models with minimum 30 pto HP and just deal with the emissions.

Now that minimum HP has been decided I need to decide if I want to stick with a unit similar in size to my CK, or step up to the next size up. A big consideration there is that my wife will be doing some of the mowing and other things with the tractor so I'll have to get her comfortable if I go larger. So I'll be looking at the Kioti CK4020, or lowest HP DK/NS/NX model, and Yanmar YT235 and YT347, and the equivalent sizes in other brands.

I dropped my old CK off at a dealer today for a clutch replacement, something I would do myself if I had space and time. This is my first dealing with this dealer so we'll see how it goes. They carry Kioti, New Holland, and Massey Ferguson.

 

[WinterDeere]

Now that minimum HP has been decided I need to decide if I want to stick with a unit similar in size to my CK, or step up to the next size up.

Without getting into brand specifics, things I've noticed when stepping up in size (specifically around the sizes you're shopping) is the changes in visibility and center of gravity. For example, when stepping up from Deere series 1 to 2, or from 2 to 3, the hoods get higher and wider (esp. Series 2R to series 3R), and the center of gravity gets higher due to the tire height increasing faster than track width. I haven't rolled either, but I definitely feel like my 3R is more tippy than the older Series 2 equivalents I've owned previously.

 

[Jaybr]

Well we closed on a new place this week, 48 acres. It’s mostly hardwood forest with about 10 acres of grass. There doesn’t appear to be much weeds in the grass and I’m wondering if previous owners had someone cutting for hay. I’ll be mowing it this weekend with the ck35 and 5’ rotary cutter, which will give me a good measure of how long it takes.

As far as tractors, Yanmar dealer is closest and seems good. I’ve priced a YT235c and a CK4020 cab and they are virtually identical. I need to take the wife to look at them. I’d like to step up to the YT347 or Kioti NX but not sure how comfortable she’ll be with the larger machine.

 

[tacticalturnip]

Congratulations on the new place! Yanmar makes an excellent tractor, and you can't go wrong whether you pick them or Kioti.

 

[EddieWalker]

Congratulations on your new place.

I think I would just keep what you have for now, and get to know the new land. A few more HP wont be that significant of a change.

 

[HamishMacCheap]

I have only heard good comments about Yanmar products.

 

[Jrasband]

You could with a sickle mower.

 

[Sid Post]

Well we closed on a new place this week, 48 acres. It’s mostly hardwood forest with about 10 acres of grass. There doesn’t appear to be much weeds in the grass and I’m wondering if previous owners had someone cutting for hay. I’ll be mowing it this weekend with the ck35 and 5’ rotary cutter, which will give me a good measure of how long it takes.

As far as tractors, Yanmar dealer is closest and seems good. I’ve priced a YT235c and a CK4020 cab and they are virtually identical. I need to take the wife to look at them. I’d like to step up to the YT347 or Kioti NX but not sure how comfortable she’ll be with the larger machine.

You will be much happier with the larger machine overall. If you can swing it, buy it and let the wife "warm up" to it in the future.

If you have a good local Yanmar dealer, I'd go that direction for similar money for a similar Kioti.

 

[tacticalturnip]

If you want to step up in size, go for the NS over the NX. The NX is being discontinued and has the potential for electrical gremlins that the NS doesn't.

 

[Jaybr]

Well I did some mowing with the old Kioti and 5’ rotary cutter today. Using this setup I estimate 16-20 hours to mow everything, and it looks like crap with all the windrows and clumps.

I need a bigger tractor and after today the wife is in agreement.

I sorely under estimated the amount of grass on the place; it’s closer to 20 acres than the 10 I estimated.

 

[Sid Post]

Well I did some mowing with the old Kioti and 5’ rotary cutter today. Using this setup I estimate 16-20 hours to mow everything, and it looks like crap with all the windrows and clumps.

I need a bigger tractor and after today the wife is in agreement.

I sorely under estimated the amount of grass on the place; it’s closer to 20 acres than the 10 I estimated.

Tall grass takes a lot of PTO Hp and a slow ground speed. I have 5 "wet" acres and I can only mow it with a Kubota B2601. There is usually a 6~9 month period where I can't mow it. With my 4' Landpride rotary cutter, AKA bush hog, it takes me TWO FULL DAYS assuming I don't get stuck and need to pull it out of some muddy hole to know things down.

My "little" tractor really struggles with the mowing in this wet area. Most people say 5Hp per foot of mower so, I am right at that with my Hydrostat transmission. In my case, like you, I end up with windrows and clumps. My "big" tractor is a much better tool but, weighs too much so, it is what it is for those 5 acres.

A 35~45Hp tractor (45 or more if Hydrostat transmission) will serve you significantly better with a 5' Bush Hog and will let you run a reasonable ground speed so you get 2~3 acres an hour depending on grass/weed height and the tractor assuming the pasture is smooth so you don't bounce out of the seat!

My friend has a 35HP Kioti with a 5' Brush Hog. While I don't look a "gift horse in the mouth", that tractor is not a good match for a medium-duty 5' rotary mower unless the pasture is kept short. It also really needs more weight to handle that mower on land that isn't perfectly level. Slopes, hills, etc. give it problems due to the center of gravity and balance.

All this to say, there is more to selecting the right tractor than HORSEPOWER! Within limits, a larger tractor (i.e. heavier) of the same HORSEPOWER will do more work than the same powertrain in a smaller and lighter tractor as well.

 

[EddieWalker]

I'm probably repeating myself. I started out with a 37hp tractor and a 6 foot rotatory cutter. I beat both of them up pretty good, and even myself.

Two years ago I bought a 70hp tractor and a 12 foot batwing cutter. The batwing has a five foot center cut and each wing is four feet. My goal was to cut my place faster. What I didn't expect was how much nicer the batwing cuts the grass over the single deck 6 foot cutter. The difference in how it looks is significant!!!!! Night and day nicer!!!!

For your place, and that much grass to cut, I think that the very smallest thing you should look at is a 10 foot batwing, with 12 foot being a better option. My neighbor has a 15 foot batwing, and his place looks great, but that's a lot more horsepower. He also pulls it with a 2wd tractor that's 100 hp, and it's impressive to see how quickly he can turn while mowing. I'm not a huge fan of 2wd tractors, but they can turn so much faster then 4wd, and without a loader on the front end, it's like comparing a Sports Car to a One Ton truck. If I ever have the extra funds, I could see buying a 2 wheel drive tractor with a cab and no loader, just for mowing.

Once you decide on the mower, then you can decide on what horsepower tractor you want. I spent a lot of time watching YouTube videos before I bought mine. It took awhile, but I slowly changed my mind on what I originally thought I wanted, and what I ended up buying.

You have all winter to figure it out. Don't rush into anything. Abandon the 5 foot cutter you have now. Sell it, trade it in, or keep it as a back up. Just don't expect it to give you a good cut, or cut any faster if you get a bigger tractor.

 

[Panik]

Well I did some mowing with the old Kioti and 5’ rotary cutter today. Using this setup I estimate 16-20 hours to mow everything, and it looks like crap with all the windrows and clumps.

I need a bigger tractor and after today the wife is in agreement.

I sorely under estimated the amount of grass on the place; it’s closer to 20 acres than the 10 I estimated.

Congrats on the new place! I skimmed the 6 or so pages, so apologies if this has already been covered.... Have you considered something like a 72" zero turn?

I ask because I went through something similar, although at a much smaller scale - 4-5 mowable acres on the slope of an old terraced ridge. When we moved to our current property I had available a 23hp bx2360 with 60" mid-mount, and 48" 3pt rotary. Running either of those two implements.... and at times both at the same time when the yard got out of control was an absolute chore. Alway felt tired & beat up whenever I finished mowing with the bx.

About 5 years ago I finally bit the bullet and invested in a 60" zero turn and legitimately it cut easily over an hour off my total mowing time as a result of increased maneuverability and cutting speed. It also handles wet and heavier cuts much more readily that the bx does.

Obviously a zero turn is not the best tool for every situation and there are still a couple areas of my property that I have to use the 3pt rotary mower on due to the angle of the slope. I know you have a lot more acreage than I.... plus you mentioned desiring a cabbed solution. Figured I throw out a different solution than changing tractors to accommodate your current needs.

 

[Sid Post]

Congrats on the new place! I skimmed the 6 or so pages, so apologies if this has already been covered.... Have you considered something like a 72" zero turn?

I ask because I went through something similar, although at a much smaller scale - 4-5 mowable acres on the slope of an old terraced ridge. When we moved to our current property I had available a 23hp bx2360 with 60" mid-mount, and 48" 3pt rotary. Running either of those two implements.... and at times both at the same time when the yard got out of control was an absolute chore. Alway felt tired & beat up whenever I finished mowing with the bx.

About 5 years ago I finally bit the bullet and invested in a 60" zero turn and legitimately it cut easily over an hour off my total mowing time as a result of increased maneuverability and cutting speed. It also handles wet and heavier cuts much more readily that the bx does.

Obviously a zero turn is not the best tool for every situation and there are still a couple areas of my property that I have to use the 3pt rotary mower on due to the angle of the slope. I know you have a lot more acreage than I.... plus you mentioned desiring a cabbed solution. Figured I throw out a different solution than changing tractors to accommodate your current needs.

No way I could use a Zero-Turn or pretty much any finish mower in my pasture without destroying the mower. If I had a 5-acre yard around a commercial building, sure but, pasture ... not NO but He!! NO.

Even driving my Kubota B2601 in my pasture is a rough ride in low gear. Cattle, moles, feral hogs, etc. have made it too rough for that tractor and its small-diameter tires.

 

[WM75Guy]

I wouldn't consider a ZTR for this application, they are not designed for pasture mowing. I bought a Kubota F2560 72" front mount mower to mow a couple of acres of pasture that has trees. After a short time I had to replace the mower deck gearbox. Replaced that mower with a NH 25S with a 60" mid-mount mower. Much more robust belt and driveshaft system than the Kubota.

Not all tractors above 26 HP have a DPF and regen, especially when you go above the CUTs to the utility tractors below 75 hp. My NH WM75 uses DOC/EGR technology. The manual doesn't even mention anything about it or any operating parameters. The Case utility series are the same. MF tractors also do not have DPF. With a 70-75 hp tractor you can run a 12' batwing without any problems, like Eddie Walker does with his MF.

 

[Slowpoke Slim]

Well I did some mowing with the old Kioti and 5’ rotary cutter today. Using this setup I estimate 16-20 hours to mow everything, and it looks like crap with all the windrows and clumps.

I need a bigger tractor and after today the wife is in agreement.

I sorely under estimated the amount of grass on the place; it’s closer to 20 acres than the 10 I estimated.

If you want to get rid of the clumps and windrows so it doesn't "look like crap", then you should be looking at 3 spindle batwing type mowers. That or you're going to have to start cutting it much more often, to keep it from getting tall. Tall grass and weeds cut with a single spindle brush mower is always going to look like crap.

A 50-60 hp tractor with a 10-12 foot batwing will leave a nice cut finish behind, and you'll only have to cut it once.

 

[Panik]

No way I could use a Zero-Turn or pretty much any finish mower in my pasture without destroying the mower. If I had a 5-acre yard around a commercial building, sure but, pasture ... not NO but He!! NO.

Even driving my Kubota B2601 in my pasture is a rough ride in low gear. Cattle, moles, feral hogs, etc. have made it too rough for that tractor and its small-diameter tires.

Lol, interesting.... my yard such as it is is old converted farm/pasture land. Not a single bit of it is flat or smooth - swales, ridges, slopes (mostly minor) with an ever changing seasonal assortment of potholes. First year we had the property I had to take the BX to the dealer for repairs because:

- the hard line feeding the mid-mount and 3pt arms developed a stress fracture
- And the height-limit stop for the mid-mount broke

All from vibrations and jolts in mowing our property. Basically after repairs the solution was to slow down while mowing even more.

It my case mowing actually got smoother and less problematic going from a subcompact to a zero turn. By seat of the pants/bulging disc metrics the zero turn is much more forgiving at speed while running over rough terrain than the tractor is.

Obviously, mileage and terrain varies and everyones case use is different.

 

[Jaybr]

I have a zero turn, no way that would cute it. A batwing would be nice for a few areas but wouldn’t work on a lot of the property, it’s too tight.

I’ll post a pick later