Tractor Diesel Fuel Additive

[5030]

Read the Hammond (Biobore) website info to see what algae looks like. It stinks as well though they don't mention that....lol Once you have it, getting rid of it is ALWAYS a chore.

 

[jyoutz]

Read the Hammond (Biobore) website info to see what algae looks like. It stinks as well though they don't mention that....lol Once you have it, getting rid of it is ALWAYS a chore.

Not to knock common vernacular, but what is called algae in diesel fuel is actually masses of bacteria. True algae needs sunlight to grow. Either way it’s a problem and will create big fuel system issues.

 

[Munsie]

yes, which is why an owner needs to identify which of the 4 potential diesel fuel issues needs addressing before purchasing a product. haven't seen a product that covers all 4 issues i mentioned earlier

I agree with this

 

[dkmc]

Simply put, if any additive you buy don't carry either an MSDS label or an EPA/MSDS registration number and they claim their product kills microbial algae, they are full of BS. That simple.

You won't find Power Service Red or white bottle claiming to be an algaecide because it isn't. Neither is Howes or Optilube for that matter. They may be an anti gel / lubricity additive but not a biocide. I've never had the need for a lubricity additive ever. and I have a gob more hours on my tractors than 99% of the folks on this site have anyway.

In the past when I've bought Power Service or Howes I've always been skeptical if I paid $8-12 for a quart of diesel fuel and not much more. Power Service used to smell like it had Toluene in it, now it smells like diesel fuel. (Which doesn't mean that's all it is). These days, I mix a bit of Toluene with a bit of ATF (old non def engines), put it in the tank, and never have any of the issues mentioned.

FYI Toluene is still listed as an ingredient in PS

 

[hayden]

My only concern with fuel is gelling in cold weather. Any water gets picked up by the many filters before the fuel hits the engine. I have a 275 gal bulk tank, and pour a jug of the Power Service treatment in every time I get the tank filled, no matter what time of year it is. That way I know the fuel in my machines is always protected

 

[1M05]

 

[Gord Baker]

I had been looking and looking for a easy to use quality fuel additive. Came across this stuff and I'm very pleased. I've used it in my Mahindra and New Holland.
Super simple!!!! It is winter time, so I just dumped the whole bottle in, and filled the tank. Noticed less smoke on initial start up and less clattering at idle. In my eyes it was money well spent, and I will continue to use it throughout the seasons.

Tractor Diesel Fuel Additive​

Don't overdo it with Additive. Winter Diesel should work just fine. Consult your Dealer.

 

[LouNY]

Don't overdo it with Additive. Winter Diesel should work just fine. Consult your Dealer.

Good luck with that.
I run a blended #2 and #1 with anti-gell additives.

 

[grsthegreat]

Good luck with that.
I run a blended #2 and #1 with anti-gell additives.

Here, winter blend has worked fine for past 28 years. I only started using additive this year because i had a nearly full tank of summer blend. Didnt use tractor enough this year to burn thru it.

 

[deserteagle71]

Don't overdo it with Additive. Winter Diesel should work just fine. Consult your Dealer.

Too bad there isn't a way to check the anti-gel properties of "winter diesel" as it comes from the dealer. I bet it varies all over depending on how much anti-gel was added to the "winter diesel", how much summer diesel was still in the tank when it was topped off with "winter diesel", etc.

I got in trouble with that last year. Filled the tank in December so it should have been "winter diesel". Was only down to 5 degrees F in January and when I tried fueling my tractor the pump wouldn't work...then I noticed the white cloud in the filter housing. Now I make sure I add plenty of anti-gel and diesel kleen to my bulk tank BEFORE I put diesel in it.

 

[hayden]

Too bad there isn't a way to check the anti-gel properties of "winter diesel" as it comes from the dealer. I bet it varies all over depending on how much anti-gel was added to the "winter diesel", how much summer diesel was still in the tank when it was topped off with "winter diesel", etc.

I got in trouble with that last year. Filled the tank in December so it should have been "winter diesel". Was only down to 5 degrees F in January and when I tried fueling my tractor the pump wouldn't work...then I noticed the white cloud in the filter housing. Now I make sure I add plenty of anti-gel and diesel kleen to my bulk tank BEFORE I put diesel in it.

Exactly.

What exactly is “winter diesel”?

When is that what comes out of the pump vs summer?

How much non-winter is still in your tractor or other machine?

If you add winter diesel, what is the cloud point on the blend that you now have in your tank? Will it gel or not, and at what temp?

 

[dannyojudd]

View attachment 2115552
View attachment 2115554 You should also be using a Biocide

I've only used Power Serice products since 1989 when I purchased my first Dodge D-250 2wd w/Cummins. I failed to read the directions carefully and missed to double the dosage below 32 degrees. Excellent product fairly priced. I used their anti-gel without fail for many years.

 

[5030]

Seems to be a lot of hoopla about lubricity and ULSD diesel which can be on road (not colored) or off road (red dyed).

I've never had any issue with lubricity in my injection pumps or injectors for that matter and my good friend owns and runs 65 road tractors pulling Fed-Ex trailers and he don't add anyting to his fuel, ever.

Never had an issues with either of my Kubota's or my Cat 3406 B model and my tractors as well as the Cat have mechanical injection pumps so I think the lubricity thing is phooey.

Actually besides anti-gel (Power service white or red bottle) I run a Nano-Borate additive in my lube oil, but only to keep the insides of my engines clean as synthetic oils today tend to coat interior engine surfaces with a light coating of varnish. The Nano-Borate additive eliminates that entirely. A clean engine is a happy engine IMO.

 

[Williy]

For many many years I have been using Power Service the white bottle that way it dosn't matter when I fill up my jugs
because I'm always ready when ever the cold wind blows

willy

 

[big bubba]

"I run a Nano-Borate additive in my lube oil, but only to keep the insides of my engines clean as synthetic oils today tend to coat interior engine surfaces with a light coating of varnish." 5030

interesting, curious about the data or empirical evidence of varnish build up of synthetic vs conventional oils? though a little off topic of this thread, i have never heard that fact, my understanding is that conventional rather than synthetic is what builds up varnish, etc... best regards,

 

[5030]

"I run a Nano-Borate additive in my lube oil, but only to keep the insides of my engines clean as synthetic oils today tend to coat interior engine surfaces with a light coating of varnish." 5030

interesting, curious about the data or empirical evidence of varnish build up of synthetic vs conventional oils? though a little off topic of this thread, i have never heard that fact, my understanding is that conventional rather than synthetic is what builds up varnish, etc... best regards,

All you need to do is watch the YT channel 'I do cars' to observe hos synthetic or semi synthetic motor oil causes varnish deposits inside any engine, especially those that owners get lax about oil changes, which is by the way impending death for the Ford Eco-Boost VVT engines where the cam phasers fail prematurely.

Not something I do, I change my lube oil every 5K miles. I suggest you employ your favorite search engine and inquire about the benefits of adding a Nano-Borate additive to your lube oil. Well documented.

It's the only 'elixir' I use other than using a carbon dissolving agent on my GDI engine at every oil change simply because it's much less expensive to do that versus pulling the head and using walnut shell blasting to remove built up carbon in the intake. Much cheaper.

At least builders realized that having a pilot injector in the intake tract was a much better alternative to a dry intake tract concerning carbon buildup . Just so happens I own a GDI engine.

 

[big bubba]

could well be. if this were an issue, esp on newer engines, wouldn't manufacturers include your additive to their oem engine oils?

my understanding is that synthetic has more aggressive scrubbers than conventional oils, therefore not recommended for older engines with conventional varnish build up through the years, therefore compromising seals, etc. anyway, this thread is about diesel additives, apologize for diversion. regards,

 

[1M05]

synthetic or semi synthetic motor oil causes varnish deposits inside any engine, especially those that owners get lax about oil changes

Sounds like lax oil changes are causing the varnish not the oil?

 

[5030]

No issue with me and far as buildup internally, I don't have any as my motors are all using that additive since new.

I will say that I had to replace the injection harness on my 97 F350, 7.3 IDI Navistar diesel engine last year and when I pulled the valve covers which you have to do to replace the injector and glow plug connections, not only was the head deck squeaky clean but so were the injector bodies themselves and the underside of the valve covers were completely devoid of any buildup what so ever. All I did was wipe the inside of the valve covers with a clean rag and replaced them. Engine had well over 100K miles on it and no buildup of anything at all and it's a farm truck and gets worked pretty hard during hot weather. That alone sold me on it.

Candidly speaking, I'm really not into 'elixers' that are sold in auto parts stores than seem to line their shelves. I consider most all of them just a waste of hard earned money with the exception of Nano-Borate and EPA-MSDS labelled algaecide as well as GDI dry intake carbon remover. You won't find anything else on my shelf.

Only reason I use Power Service Bio-Kleen is my first hand (and expensive) experience with the stinky gunk in my diesel engines. They do sit all winter not used, on battery tenders with the starting batteries removed electrically from their systems.

There are a boatload of additives you can buy but IMO, most are a waste of money and I am inherently cheap anyway.

 

[5030]

Sounds like lax oil changes are causing the varnish not the oil?

I don't know as it's not something I do. I never pay any attention to 'recommended change intervals' on any of our vehicles or my tractors. They all get changed as well as filters (and I don't use cheap aftermarket filters either, always OEM filters), every 5K miles. My philosophy is, lube oil as well as transmission / hydraulic oil is much cheaper in the long run than expensive repairs attributed to extended oil changes and I do use Blackstone Labs for oil analysis to keep tabs on engine condition as well as impending issues that may arise in the future. Spectroscopic oil analysis gives you an advance notice to impending issues. I don't use them with every oil change, just yearly.