2006 4320 front wheel seals leaking

[beenthere]

If I understand "logcabin" correctly, then fluid should be above the cap. Isn't there a drain plug (key item B in oldtimer's reply #16) also just above that cap implying that is where the lubricating fluid resides? Not understanding which "seal" is being referenced.

 

[logcabin]

WOW, Thank you "been there" you hit it right on the head. YES there is a drain plug on each side. It never clicked where the plug is in relation to the cap. I called united ag in vermont, unfortunately they were not much help, I called another dealer closer to me. The mechanic said the SAME thing! The drain plug locacation compared to the location of the collar plug as it is called. PN LVU20868. Some how when puttling fluid in the axel it makes it waytot he void area where the camp is. He stresse the importance of getting the plug lined up straight when inserting it. Hopefully I have a big enough socket for the collar plug. Instead ot tapping it, I am going to try a bottle jack pushing against the socket and hopefully I can insert it by pressing it in place. Won't till early February when I return form Montana.Thank you "beenthere". You are in south Wisconsin? I believe route 90 takes us into the southern Wisconson area.

 

[oldtimer 66]

Look up this parts diagram,

Front Spindle and Final Drive Gears - ST367671​

Pt's 10, 35 and 39 are seals/ o-ring.


If it were me, I would remove the front axle and get it into a warm place to work on it. I would flush out each spindle assembly, maybe use safety solvent. The oil as shown is frozen because of the moisture. I would do one side at a time setting the axle on a incline. After the flush you could rotate the axle with the end caps/ plug and plug collar, Pt 30/ Pt 30/ up for assembly. Like super55 said those end caps/ plugs are difficult to install/ easily cock etc. Worst case you may have some pitting on the bearings from the moisture.

As a note, when my tractor was new, the front axle pinion seal leaked. The JD service rep said the these front axle were bullet proof except for mine. It took them 2 weeks to get it repaired. They needed a thin wall deep 1.62 socket which they order from Snap-On. Later

 

[defed]

i think this was a terrible design by deere. well, it's good for ease of working on it, but that cap on the bottom of the spindle is poor. i drove over a pile of dirt and it pushed the cap up and out. some styles are better than others (as i've replaced it a few times). some actually have a steel lip to help keep it from getting pushed in, others are just a rubber lip. I was going to design cap to protect it but never got around to it.

the other common problem is the seals where the knuckle rotates when steering. i've replaced those a few times, and they finally came out w/ an improved design and i haven't had to change them since. that cap has to be removed to pull the spindle - so while i've only had the cap get crushed out 1x, i've had to remove and replace them several times when replacing the seals.

 

[Rob REECE]

What are the odds? The left front tire where you drain the front axel fluid, I noticed a fluid leak. Brownish colored on the snow. Tractor hadn't moved in a few days. The day before there was nothing on the ground. Well ok, must be a seal under the housing. Next day there was a lot bigger spot. Two days after the left side, on the right side was the same thing!! Tractor still had not moved! 18 years old both front sides leaking within a couple of days apart. Anyone seen

What are the odds? The left front tire where you drain the front axel fluid, I noticed a fluid leak. Brownish colored on the snow. Tractor hadn't moved in a few days. The day before there was nothing on the ground. Well ok, must be a seal under the housing. Next day there was a lot bigger spot. Two days after the left side, on the right side was the same thing!! Tractor still had not moved! 18 years old both front sides leaking within a couple of days apart. Anyone seen anything like this?

I have a 2009 JD4320 and I see comments saying there is a pressed in plug. Mine clearly has a drain plug that screws in.

 

[m5040]

Might be low temp related. One question, did you change the oil in the front axle at the recommended intervals? A lot of people have the original oil, along with all break in contamination, still flowing through the system.

 

[super55]

I have a 2009 JD4320 and I see comments saying there is a pressed in plug. Mine clearly has a drain plug that screws in.

Correct the drain plug is usually a small hex head plug on the interior. The other "plug" in reference to previous post is in reference to a press in cap on the bottom of the wheel hub just below the drain plug. JD parts catalog refers to it as a "plug" but essentially is a pressed in gasket cap.

Defed I agree it definitely. Design is easy to work on but lacks durability. My 4310, 4400 and 4700 all have that upper seal on side that leaks to some degree. After I went and vented all the fill plugs and replaced the front axle fluid with 80-90w in of the hygard transmission oil most of the leaks just turned to "wet spots" on the axle. Typically now I may have to add a little fluid every 6 months.

 

[rmonio]

Correct the drain plug is usually a small hex head plug on the interior. The other "plug" in reference to previous post is in reference to a press in cap on the bottom of the wheel hub just below the drain plug. JD parts catalog refers to it as a "plug" but essentially is a pressed in gasket cap.

Defed I agree it definitely. Design is easy to work on but lacks durability. My 4310, 4400 and 4700 all have that upper seal on side that leaks to some degree. After I went and vented all the fill plugs and replaced the front axle fluid with 80-90w in of the hygard transmission oil most of the leaks just turned to "wet spots" on the axle. Typically now I may have to add a little fluid every 6 months.

My rebuild of my front on my 4700 should last me - but I plan to be diligent given what I’ve learned about continuing to change the fluid and monitor the pressure in the unit. I’m fortunate to have two folks who are related in the family now that are diesel mechanics and have both worked on these units.

Maybe I can get another 25 years out of my 4600.

 

[repete]

Go to a hardware or box store and buy yourself a threaded brass hose barb and screw it in the drilled plug, add a length of aquarium hose and you are in business for about 4 bucks.

This was my fix but I have a steel plug with a oil level dip stick. I drilled a 1/8" hole off center to miss the dipstick then drilled and tapped the plug to accept a barbed hose fitting. I ran the hose into the engine compartment and then at the far end placed a fuel filter. Dirt and water will not be drawn in. I wrapped the filter in a rag due to the mason bees loving a 1/4" hole....

 

[5030]

A bit of aluminum or bronze wool in the hose end accomplishes the same task. Actually what I do with the gearbox breather hoses on my Kubota M's. Steel wool don't work simply because it corrodes. You can also buy sintered bronze air mufflers online or at McMaster-Carr that accomplish the same thing and they come in all different sizes and ends.

 

[oldtimer 66]

Just a follow up, I changed the fluid in my front axle. The oil that drained out looked good but dark colored. I could not notice any moisture / cloudiness. All set for another 600 hrs. It's been to cold to warm up the front axle, but the tractor was inside a heated garage. I drained the oil for about an hour and also used and air hose to force out any remaining oil. Later

 

[logcabin]

That’s great news, @logcabin ! That will save a ton of money given that all works well for you. I look forward to hearing your results when you return from Montana - have a nice trip to see your daughter!

Well, sorry for the delay but here goes. Putting the caps in, at least for me was no easy task. As mentioned earlier they have to go in straight. I didn't have a large enough socket to encompass the entire cap so I used a 3/4" socket which set on the flat spot of the cap. The problem was, on my back, holding the socket and now I have to tap it. Try tapping it with two months prior total shoulder replacement. Needless to say that was a NO GO!. I mentioned earlier about using a bottle jack. Had to remove tires to get jack in the proper position. I went to auto store to look for a socket. cheaper than having the delaer do it I guess. I found a 65-67 mm oil wrench which fit the inner part of the outter edge of the cap. Perfect! Everey time I got what I thought was perfect to push up in housing, it seemed to not push straight. Quite frankly it was pissen me off!. I went back the next day to try again. Same thing so I pushed anyway with the bottle jack. It went in really slick but just wasn't setting like it should. I took a hammer and gave it a tap. That sucker bottomed out perfectly! Damn, it worked. Did the same thing to the other side. It worked again. Speaking with a JD mehanic he suggested to use a dab of red or black gasket maker to give a litte extra protection. I had a tube of "seals all" which is rated for -40 - +150 F. Good for gas and oil on the package. I just put a dab on the outter edge of the cap all the way around. I attached a photo taked today. 2/14/25. The photo is two days after putting in the caps, refilling and pushing snow 5 or 6 hours. At this point all appears normal. I want to once again say THANK YOU to everyone that took time to write something that pointed me in the right direction. Every single input help me, it truly did!!!

In South Bend Indiana we ran into some nasty conditions. I have never driven in a "TOTAL WHITEOUT" until then. The only way you could remotely tell where the vehicle was, I straddled the rumble strip on the right side. For 2 to 3 seconds you have total blindness, but we made it! We had a safe trip, got to spend some time with our daughter, had a safe return trip, and tractor seems good. I thank you all agian! Be, well, be safe, and be happy!

 

[rmonio]

Well, sorry for the delay but here goes. Putting the caps in, at least for me was no easy task. As mentioned earlier they have to go in straight. I didn't have a large enough socket to encompass the entire cap so I used a 3/4" socket which set on the flat spot of the cap. The problem was, on my back, holding the socket and now I have to tap it. Try tapping it with two months prior total shoulder replacement. Needless to say that was a NO GO!. I mentioned earlier about using a bottle jack. Had to remove tires to get jack in the proper position. I went to auto store to look for a socket. cheaper than having the delaer do it I guess. I found a 65-67 mm oil wrench which fit the inner part of the outter edge of the cap. Perfect! Everey time I got what I thought was perfect to push up in housing, it seemed to not push straight. Quite frankly it was pissen me off!. I went back the next day to try again. Same thing so I pushed anyway with the bottle jack. It went in really slick but just wasn't setting like it should. I took a hammer and gave it a tap. That sucker bottomed out perfectly! Damn, it worked. Did the same thing to the other side. It worked again. Speaking with a JD mehanic he suggested to use a dab of red or black gasket maker to give a litte extra protection. I had a tube of "seals all" which is rated for -40 - +150 F. Good for gas and oil on the package. I just put a dab on the outter edge of the cap all the way around. I attached a photo taked today. 2/14/25. The photo is two days after putting in the caps, refilling and pushing snow 5 or 6 hours. At this point all appears normal. I want to once again say THANK YOU to everyone that took time to write something that pointed me in the right direction. Every single input help me, it truly did!!!

Sounds like a heck of a time…. But at least you got it done and in. My front axle is working like charm so I’m very happy with everything. Together with solving the gel’ing issue that we had when we hit 35 below a month back (darn fuel filter mushed up), things have been good.

In South Bend Indiana we ran into some nasty conditions. I have never driven in a "TOTAL WHITEOUT" until then. The only way you could remotely tell where the vehicle was, I straddled the rumble strip on the right side. For 2 to 3 seconds you have total blindness, but we made it! We had a safe trip, got to spend some time with our daughter, had a safe return trip, and tractor seems good. I thank you all agian! Be, well, be safe, and be happy!

Whiteout’s suck. I had that happen coming back across I-90 in South Dakota last winter after picking up a dog in Idaho. Fortunately for us, it all went well - but there quite a few semis that didn’t fare as well. Glad you made it!

 

[logcabin]

Sounds like a heck of a time…. But at least you got it done and in. My front axle is working like charm so I’m very happy with everything. Together with solving the gel’ing issue that we had when we hit 35 below a month back (darn fuel filter mushed up), things have been good.


Whiteout’s suck. I had that happen coming back across I-90 in South Dakota last winter after picking up a dog in Idaho. Fortunately for us, it all went well - but there quite a few semis that didn’t fare as well. Glad you made it!

Thank you my friend. You drove from MN to Idaho to pick up a dog? Rescue? I may be going to Texas to pick up one if she cannot find a fantastic home. It has got to be the perfect home or I am heading to Texas. Guess we do have a lot in common. haha. Now, if only I could fix my damn knee.

 

[rmonio]

Thank you my friend. You drove from MN to Idaho to pick up a dog? Rescue? I may be going to Texas to pick up one if she cannot find a fantastic home. It has got to be the perfect home or I am heading to Texas. Guess we do have a lot in common. haha. Now, if only I could fix my damn knee.

Actually, we went to Idaho to bring back a Puppy that my daughter bought. It was a great family trip going out there.