Buying advice

   / Buying advice
  • Thread Starter
#21  
The areas I intend to clear are mixed. I have sections with saplings that also have larger trees. Then, I have some really thick pine areas. My thought is to deal with the saplings with a brush hog. Cut the bigger trees and use the bucket to move the wood into piles. Use a landscape rake for getting smaller stuff together. Rent an excavator for stumps. Rent a chipper for the branches, then a box blade to clean up uneven areas.


Does that make sense? Or is my concept flawed? Or not practical?

Thanks

John
 
   / Buying advice #22  
I run a Kubota B2301. It handles my finish mowing of about 4 acres and about another 5 or 6 with a rotary cutter without a problem. I have rented an excavator when needed, and it has proven to be a LOT cheaper than buying a backhoe for the tractor--it also is more versatile.
Don't avoid checking the used market, thought some of the financing on new machines can make it less costly then buying even a sweetheart deal of a used tractor.
My continual advice is SHOP THE DEALER. You will never be sadder than if you can't get good service and a ready supply of parts--and a helpful parts counter counter staff is invaluable!
 
   / Buying advice #23  
The areas I intend to clear are mixed. I have sections with saplings that also have larger trees. Then, I have some really thick pine areas. My thought is to deal with the saplings with a brush hog. Cut the bigger trees and use the bucket to move the wood into piles. Use a landscape rake for getting smaller stuff together. Rent an excavator for stumps. Rent a chipper for the branches, then a box blade to clean up uneven areas.


Does that make sense? Or is my concept flawed? Or not practical?

Thanks

John
Suggest you post a picture so everyone can see what you are dealing with.

Mowing saplings that have gotten to be about 1" or so with a rotary cutter can leave behind stubs that puncture tires. It is easier to move wood with a grapple than a bucket.

The scope of all the steps you have mentioned doing gives me the impression that you could end up doing a lot more work over a longer time frame than if you hired a forestry mulcher to grind this material to mulch in place where it is and being done with all of it in a day. They can grind material down into the top layer of dirt so there are no stubs. Depending on the size of the mulcher, the practical limit for grinding a tree seems to be about 8" or so. If you have a lot of large trees, might just need a dozer. Chipping branches is still a lot of work feeding the chipper even if you rent a large chipper. A forestry mulcher can save you a lot of time and work with better overall results so you can get on with your project.
 
Last edited:
   / Buying advice #24  
For moving the big logs, a grapple is best, but pallet forks will work OK. To use the bucket, you will need to buck it down to logs.

The advice above is good, too. A land clearing business with a forestry mulcher can do wonders. They can 'eat' pretty big trees and the mulch lays down a nice barrier.
 
   / Buying advice #25  
Depending on the size of the mulcher, the practical limit for grinding a tree seems to be about 8" or so. If you have a lot of large trees, might just need a dozer. Chipping branches is still a lot of work feeding the chipper even if you rent a large chipper. A forestry mulcher can save you a lot of time and work with better overall results so you can get on with your project.

Our mulchers ground bigger trees than that, but left larger debris. Mulcher on a skid steer I think does a better job grinding things small and does less damage to the trees being kept/worked around. We had two of these big guys work about three acres for us.


IMG_1395.JPG IMG_1399.JPG
 
   / Buying advice #26  
It just depends on how much time you have to get things done and the money you have to spend. And really how much YOU want to do.

Be aware that if you plan on storing the tractor in the garage or smaller shed, make sure you know the height of the ROP, (roll bar). Most newer tractors have foldable ROP's bars now tho.
As far as your grapple, are you going to be using it quite often every year or can you get away with a 4in1 bucket. I can use my 4in1 bucket everyday/year round but myself just don't have enough usage to justify a grapple sitting most of the time. Good and bad on either, the 4in1 bucket can only lift what it can fit in the jaws but can use it everyday. The Grapple can fit/lift how ever much your tractor can lift but can't move dirt, gravel, etc. and can sit for quite a while.
Forks are awesome, great for moving logs, downed trees, etc. I put most of my attactchmgents on pallets so I can move them around easier. I used the forks way more on my downed trees, mostly because the 4in1 bucket couldn't fit over the larger rounds.
And don't forget to get a tractor with a 3rd function and or rear remotes or look into putting them on yourself if your mech inclined.

My story....
I have around 5 acres, probably half wooded, and cut around 2-1/2 to 3 acres. 3/4 of the property was scrub brush when I bought it. When I built my home I rented a tractor every year but with my job it was a pain to plan out the weather if they even had one available to rent.
I was also looking at the ground clearance and ended up buying a 24 hp JD-770 tractor back in '98 even tho I wanted a 30+ HP tractor. But I got to thinking that I could still do the job with the 770 and the extra $ spent, extra hp and larger tractor would be overkill once I got caught up. I did get a 5' PTO finish mower at the same time and it still does great. It says it will cut up to 2" saplings, etc., and I never did get a flat, I guess I was lucky. I basically used it as a Cat the first few years. In fact I just replaced the completely smooth front tires on the tractor a couple years ago and never had a flat in the entire time I've owned the tractor. As apposed to the LS that within a year I picked up a nail at my neighbors place. Sheesh.

With that being said,
I did splurge on an LS 235 35hp tractor a few years ago only because we had cut down probably 2 dozen large trees around the house a year or so before I retired and just wanted them done and gone. I also do a bit of snow/road work for our area so wanted something a bit more to handle it. To have someone come in and cut/remove everything was actually more than buying the tractor. With the wife on one tractor and me on the other it worked out great. I did get a 4-1 bucket for the LS to move the logs and brush but just didn't have enough brush anymore to justify getting a Grapple.
With the heavier LS and the R4 tires it came with I really can't use it in the soggier areas in the spring and fall that the 770 could being lighter and having the R1 tires. Even with the 770 I still have to wait to do the first mow in the soggy area until around April if I'm lucky. I live in the PNW so it's hit or miss.
 
   / Buying advice
  • Thread Starter
#27  
Hello, first time poster looking for advice, as I am new to tractors I have gained a lot of knowledge reading through this forum and have gained a lot of knowledge but, all concept at this point.

I have a 3+ acre property, 1 acre is cleared but, I want to clear up the rest and put in some drainage. It's a mix of small trees with some larger pines.

I have started looking at 25 HP but, am concerned I may regret later if I need more PTO HP for something later so, have entertained 33-40 HP units. I also have been concerned that the Kubota might be limited by the lift capacity as all the other choices have quite a lot more lift capacity.

I have looked at Mohindra (2123,2126 1635), TYM (T25,2515, 4815, T474), Kubota (L3302) and Kioti (CK 2620 and CK 3520), both Kioti and TYM make more HP more appealing from a cost perspective, the Kubota is the most expensive option by a little.

The closest dealer is Kioti which is 20 minutes, by Kubota 25 minutes then Mohindra which is around 35 minutes away then TYM is around an hour away. Every dealer seems to have a pretty good reputation but, I have no experience to prove it.

I have been thinking if I need a backhoe and woodchipper, I could rent one so, it could negate the need for extra PTO power which is one of the reasons I was going up in HP.

Attachments:
Grapple
Forks
Landscape rake
snow pusher

Any thoughts appreciated.

John
Hello all, thanks for your advice. I think I am settling on 2 models. The TYM 474 and the LS MT 242 H. I was going to go with 32 or so HP to get a little extra room for different attachment choices for the future. i ended up bumping it up because, the TYM just ends up making sense to go with the 474 at 48 HP vs other options when all things are considered. Then when I looked at the LS MT2 series I really liked it, and the dealer does not have the 32 HP model in stock. Any thoughts on LS vs TYM? They both seem pretty similar in specs, the LS seems more refined.

I went away from Kioti's because I have seen a few issues reported around hydraulics and curl power, the mahindra and kubota are lower lift. Maybe it doesn't matter as much as I think but, it seems to me having the extra lift capacity/breakout force will come in handy someday.

Thanks

John
 
   / Buying advice #28  
Hello all, thanks for your advice. I think I am settling on 2 models. The TYM 474 and the LS MT 242 H. I was going to go with 32 or so HP to get a little extra room for different attachment choices for the future. i ended up bumping it up because, the TYM just ends up making sense to go with the 474 at 48 HP vs other options when all things are considered. Then when I looked at the LS MT2 series I really liked it, and the dealer does not have the 32 HP model in stock. Any thoughts on LS vs TYM? They both seem pretty similar in specs, the LS seems more refined.

I went away from Kioti's because I have seen a few issues reported around hydraulics and curl power, the mahindra and kubota are lower lift. Maybe it doesn't matter as much as I think but, it seems to me having the extra lift capacity/breakout force will come in handy someday.

Thanks

John
Just one more opinio, John. I'd have the bulk of the work done once professionally and then decide how much maintenance work you want to do annually. I love that grubber in post #25.
Then after the pros work on it, buy whatever machine that appeals to you - most people change from their first choice of machine in a couple of years once they get experience, so it doesn't really matter what specs you use to justify your choice at this point.

Alternately, if you just really want to do the job yourself from the beginning and gain the experience, the models you are looking at are smallish. I'd go 55/60 hp min, look for over 3000 lbs of FEL lift at the bucket edge, not the pivots , Category 2 3pt, rear hydraulics,.....and also look at TLBs.
luck,
rScotty
BTW, our neighbor had pines growing way to thick, so he took out all the smaller ones. It looked real nice until the next windstorm took out most of the rest.
 
   / Buying advice #29  
BTW, our neighbor had pines growing way to thick, so he took out all the smaller ones. It looked real nice until the next windstorm took out most of the rest.

This is why I've moved so slow thinning out our trees. Sad that two ~100 year old trees behind my shop building decided to throw in the towel. (Too much root damage when they ran the electrical conduit I guess).

We had cleared out everything else around them so now will just have open space for a while.
 
   / Buying advice #30  
Hello, first time poster looking for advice, as I am new to tractors I have gained a lot of knowledge reading through this forum and have gained a lot of knowledge but, all concept at this point.

I have a 3+ acre property, 1 acre is cleared but, I want to clear up the rest and put in some drainage. It's a mix of small trees with some larger pines.

I have started looking at 25 HP but, am concerned I may regret later if I need more PTO HP for something later so, have entertained 33-40 HP units. I also have been concerned that the Kubota might be limited by the lift capacity as all the other choices have quite a lot more lift capacity.

I have looked at Mohindra (2123,2126 1635), TYM (T25,2515, 4815, T474), Kubota (L3302) and Kioti (CK 2620 and CK 3520), both Kioti and TYM make more HP more appealing from a cost perspective, the Kubota is the most expensive option by a little.

The closest dealer is Kioti which is 20 minutes, by Kubota 25 minutes then Mohindra which is around 35 minutes away then TYM is around an hour away. Every dealer seems to have a pretty good reputation but, I have no experience to prove it.

I have been thinking if I need a backhoe and woodchipper, I could rent one so, it could negate the need for extra PTO power which is one of the reasons I was going up in HP.

Attachments:
Grapple
Forks
Landscape rake
snow pusher

Any thoughts appreciated.

John
FYI: I had an old Kubota (~1980) with 4500+ hrs, no problems. Bought new B2910 20 years ago. Had more problems in the first 100 hrs with new tractor than the 1500 hrs of my older model. Now I am replacing the B2910 since Kubota did not have a high pressure relief valve on the 3 pt hitch hydraulics. I have been told if I am backing up and hit something (tree stump?) with a 3 pt impliment, it will fail. Has failed three times to date (NOTE: I do not know when I could have hit something when reversing so...) with each failure placing metal fragments into the hydraulic fluid in the rear axle. The metal casting with the height control is located under the seat in the differential casting "explodes" the ears off the control module. Kubota factory rep at trade show was contacted; did not give a flip just like the dealer. Not an easy repair (remove rear tires, seat, open differential). The tractor now has nearly 1000 hours on the clock (mostly due to being down for repairs). NOTE: in 20 years!

I have been told the larger models are well engineered are better manufactured, and their owners loved them. For mine, the casting for the middle 3 pt hitch broke (had to install backhoe steel bracket, the front wheel hub (that attached to the tire) fell off (only welded a little over half way around), the 3 pt hitch is not functional (see above), I have had repairs to the steeing tie rods since they are located in front of the front axle (others have on top or behind axle casting) the first two years; do I need to go on? Of course, none were covered by warrantee.

Just wanted to let you know, since you are looking for a similar sized tractor.
 

Tractor & Equipment Auctions

2018 JLG SkyTrak 6036 6,000lb 4x4 Rough Terrain Telehandler (A46683)
2018 JLG SkyTrak...
2004 Dodge Ram 3500 4x4 Crew Cab Pickup Truck (A46684)
2004 Dodge Ram...
2017 Genie GTH-5519 5,500LB 4x4 Rough Terrain Telehandler (A46683)
2017 Genie...
2020 MITSUBISHI OUTLANDER SPORT (A48992)
2020 MITSUBISHI...
Questions??? (A49339)
Questions??? (A49339)
2015 Ford F-750 Terex Hi-Ranger 5TC-55 55ft Bucket Truck (A46683)
2015 Ford F-750...
 
Top