Hydraulic SSQA idea

   / Hydraulic SSQA idea #41  
I didn't build that. Its someone else's video, but its something that I'd like to do to my machine. If you had to buy everything new, I'd say the total cost is well under $200. Probably under $100, especially if you use the $40 amazon actuator (current price is closer to $45 IIRC).
Yes I know, I wasn't sure if you had priced out all the components yet.
 
   / Hydraulic SSQA idea #42  
Yes I know, I wasn't sure if you had priced out all the components yet.
Get the $120 actuator rather than $50 one. The cheap one is a bit to slow or weak, depending on which cheap one you get.
 
   / Hydraulic SSQA idea #43  
Get the $120 actuator rather than $50 one. The cheap one is a bit to slow or weak, depending on which cheap one you get.
I definitely wouldn't cheap out on a linear actuator in that application, I already have my hyd. one so not in the market.

You need to hurry up and finish yours, the hard part is already done! You'll wonder why you waited once you use it.
 
   / Hydraulic SSQA idea #44  
Yes I know, I wasn't sure if you had priced out all the components yet.
Gotcha, sorry. I did some initial pricing just to get a quick idea of what kind of budget I'd need. I think it could easily be done for $100. On the flip side of that coin, a person could go with an IP67 cylinder and add enough connectors, cable loom, machined hardware, and other features to get the budget up closer to $1k. It just depends on how fancy you want it and what you already have on hand. Personally, my budget would be $100, but I also think you could do it AND have it look good and still be well under $200.
 
   / Hydraulic SSQA idea #45  
I use a manual ball valve on my trailer to switch between tip and brakes. The trailer is plugged into the tractor remote(proportional) so is operated from a handle in the cab. Both the tip cylinder and brake cylinder are single acting(heavy internal spring in the brake cylinder to release) The tip cylinder just relies on the weight of the body to lower it. Both work fine and the manual ball valve holds the pressure with no bleed down. Most John Deere's, especially the older ones are closed centre so that might help too.
 

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