Push over trees with a small compact?

[not2old]

In addition..

Don't think you are going to "pull down" or even direct the fall of any real tree with a typical hardware store come-along. They don't have the reach to do much more than take the slack out of the line.




Good point, I did use two of them.

 

[bcp]

Bruce

 

[CalG]

View attachment 3551243



Bruce

The tree is just waiting for you to die.

Then your silly machines will stop their annoyance, and the tree's roots will feast upon your remains.

;-)

 

[5030]

OH spare me !!
You do exactly the same thing to CUT and SCUT owners ALL the time !!
Disparaging comments about there "small tractors" yet they also bought the perfect sized tractor to fit their needs

I agree. I'd like to have a small one as well. Maybe I can coerce my Kubota dealer into giving me one cheap, he has quite a few used ones below 25 horses. that are trade in's for bigger ones.

I don't disparage them except to point out that a small one is ill suited for larger jobs.

Now that I cut my hay ground in half, even mine are too large. but I still require the pto power to operate especially my round bailer, The rotary rake and the disc bine don't require the pto power I have actually and if I didn't have the round bailer And instead kept the small square bailer, I'd down size them and put the funds in my IRA.

I'm sure they would fetch a good price in as much as both are pre 4, well maintained and completely optioned out...

I may do just that in the very near future.

 

[5030]

View attachment 3551243



Bruce

Looks to me like an impending personal injury 'accident' Heck of a way to address a 'leaner' Have a huge on in the front yard presently that needs to come down and Just called my arborist buddy with his Hi-Ranger to do it for 2 reasons actually, One, it's leaning towards the house and he has the proper equipment to take it down, plus he has insurance, should it go bad. Another 'Yuge' stump to grind. I'd say it's at least 50" at the base, maybe more. Put my 090G against the base to compare ind even the 4.5 foot bar is not as wide as the soon to be stump will be. Old popple tree that is dying. They don't have a long lifespan. Already gotten tid of the larger wood and anything under 3" he will chip. Quoted me a grand and I'm good with it. If it fell the wrong way, it would be 10 times that.

 

[Too many Kubotas]

In addition..

Don't think you are going to "pull down" or even direct the fall of any real tree with a typical hardware store come-along. They don't have the reach to do much more than take the slack out of the line.

Oh, c'mon. All you need is a snatch block used in reverse, doubling the amount of cable it can pull.

 

[ning]

In addition..

Don't think you are going to "pull down" or even direct the fall of any real tree with a typical hardware store come-along. They don't have the reach to do much more than take the slack out of the line.

A pair of those devices and good use of Prusiks can do the job. Much better is a cable "Cable Pull" or the like, as there is no spool capacity limit.

View attachment 3551231

Probably shouldn't be using a steel line at all, not enough stretch.
Suggest

keeps pulling even after you stop

 

[5030]

I have the synthetic line on my 12000 pound Warn winch on the front of my 1 ton pickup truck and I agree, the poly rope is far superior to the braided steel. Don't rust, don't fray and is easier to handle. Lighter as well.

 

[WinterDeere]

I have the synthetic line on my 12000 pound Warn winch on the front of my 1 ton pickup truck and I agree, the poly rope is far superior to the braided steel. Don't rust, don't fray and is easier to handle. Lighter as well.

Winch line is generally Dyneema single braid, such as Samson's Amsteel Blue. It has even less stretch than steel, at the same fractional loading. It's amazing stuff, I have used literal miles of it on racing boats, but usually in a double-braid configuration for control lines (e.g. dyneema core with polyester cover).

As to ning's argument about stretch... yes. But you don't need to achieve stress in the winch line, as it's usually connected to a much longer pulling line. Those pulling lines are generally large diameter but low strength stretchy lines, polyester or nylon cheap stuff, as you don't need super high strength small diameter line when you're not trying to fit it all onto a small winch spool.

The reason folks run Dyneema on winches, versus nylon or polyester, is that you can achieve 10,000 or 20,000 pull strengths with a line small enough to still allow you to fit 50 or 100 feet of it onto a winch spool. The down side is that small diameter line chafes more easily, and can jam and break more easily in blocks, versus larger diameter lines. It's also hell when you knot it, and it also suffers more fractional weakening when knotted.

 

[ning]

I have the synthetic line on my 12000 pound Warn winch on the front of my 1 ton pickup truck and I agree, the poly rope is far superior to the braided steel. Don't rust, don't fray and is easier to handle. Lighter as well.

Very different rope.
The maasadam rope puller usually has a 1500# line, because you're typically not trying to pull a tree out by its roots and don't want to be carrying around a ship hawser.
The rope puller gets a good pull in, puts a load on a tree, and has plenty of stretch so that when the tree starts moving, the rope is still pulling for quite a while - if you've got 100' of rope with a decent tension on it, it's got a good pull for easily 5-6'. A steel cable or winch line would go slack as soon as the tree starts moving and wouldn't any help at all beyond that point.