CK30 Tie Rod replacement, tire alignment help needed! <Resolved>

[Mark_G]

I bent the tie rod on my CK30. I removed the old one, and I'm trying to put the new one on. My front tires will not align; they are splayed out at the front (too narrow at the back). If I press on a tire, the other moves too, but without the tie rod, they are splayed such that no matter what I seem to do, I cannot get the tie rod in place. How can I get the tires aligned so I can install the tie rod and then adjust it to achieve the proper toe-in? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

[SPYDERLK]

I dont have a CK30 so I would need pics to diagnose. Cant you block the steered wheel in a position and then move the free wheel to match it? ... Then afterward fine adjust.

 

[Mark_G]

I dont have a CK30 so I would need pics to diagnose. Cant you block the steered wheel in a position and then move the free wheel to match it? ... Then afterward fine adjust.

The steering wheel spins when I push in on a tire. If the steering wheel is held, I don't think anything will move, but I could try it.

 

[Mark_G]

I wonder if I need to disconnect the hydraulic line from one cylinder to bleed some fluid from that side to align the wheels. I should be able to put the tie rod on, then adjust for toe-in, and reinstall the line. I'm not sure if that will interfere with anything, such as the steering center setting, etc.

 

[LouNY]

Dose the CK use a single cylinder with shafts coming out both ends or a single cylinder driving a tierod on each side.

Just turning the wheel without the engine running should force the cylinder to extend and retract.
In doing so the attached wheel will move the detached one should stay stationary until the tierod is attached.

 

[Mark_G]

Dose the CK use a single cylinder with shafts coming out both ends or a single cylinder driving a tierod on each side.

Just turning the wheel without the engine running should force the cylinder to extend and retract.
In doing so the attached wheel will move the detached one should stay stationary until the tierod is attached.

There are two cylinders, one on each side, which each connect to a wheel, and in the middle to a center point. I will take some pictures.

 

[5030]

Good because every tie rod end I've ever seen is adjustable, just like a car or turck us. No castor and camber on a tractor, just toe in and out.

 

[Mark_G]

Good because every tie rod end I've ever seen is adjustable, just like a car or turck us. No castor and camber on a tractor, just toe in and out.

It will be, I simply need to figure out how!

 

[Mark_G]

For fun and frivolity, here are three pictures. The first shows the original bent tie rod. The spacing on the tires looks suspiciously like the reduced length of the bent rod. The second shows (but not super clearly) my tractor on stands and the tires a bit toe out (my issue). The last image shows the right front tire and the hydraulic cylinder used for steering on that side (the left side looks similar), as well as the new tie rod at the bottom, resting near the hole it needs to fit into. The left side of the tie rod is seated in that hole, so the distance shown is what I need to recover to mount the tie rod. Then, I will need to expand it by about 3 inches to achieve the correct alignment. That should be nothing more than turning the tie rod to expand its length. The manual states that I need to adjust the toe to between 2 and 8 mm, measured as the difference between the front and rear of the tires from the center of the tire tread pattern.

 

[SPYDERLK]

The steering wheel spins when I push in on a tire. If the steering wheel is held, I don't think anything will move, but I could try it.

Im going to guess, that if you arranged to pull the forward part of each front tire toward each other the wheels would come into alignment gradually by hydraulic leakage through the steering circuit. Im talking engine OFF and a moderate pull force of 2 or 3 hundred pounds with a come along.

 

[5030]

It will be, I simply need to figure out how!

Looks to me like the loader is racked as well. What were you doing with the tractor? Running into brick walls?

 

[Mark_G]

Im going to guess, that if you arranged to pull the forward part of each front tire toward each other the wheels would come into alignment gradually by hydraulic leakage through the steering circuit. I'm talking engine OFF and a moderate pull force of 2 or 3 hundred pounds with a come-along.

I was trying to rig a spreader, but wasn't having much luck, and my clamps won't reach across the front. Using a come-along is probably a good idea as long as I won't damage anything.

 

[Mark_G]

Looks to me like the loader is racked as well. What were you doing with the tractor? Running into brick walls?

Pushing down trees, I did cave in the top of the bucket a bit. It is a tough tractor, and I haven't been easy on it. The ground isn't super level there, and the jackstands may not be holding the weight evenly.

 

[5030]

I'd say you exceeded it's capabilities and yes the loader is racked. Plain to see in your picture. That size tractor was never meant to 'push down trees' in fact even my large 90 horse Kubota's aren't built to push down trees, what a chainsaw is for. Next time, use the drawbar and pull them over, what it's for, not the loader.

 

[SPYDERLK]

I'd say you exceeded it's capabilities and yes the loader is racked. Plain to see in your picture. That size tractor was never meant to 'push down trees' in fact even my large 90 horse Kubota's aren't built to push down trees, what a chainsaw is for. Next time, use the drawbar and pull them over, what it's for, not the loader.

If you were there you could say that, but a single pic, slightly off axis with bucket doing what?, could steer you wrong. Loaders on the tractor they are designed for arent easy to tweak. My wife managed, taking off in 3rd downhill on the 7520 with forks parked straight down in the ground. Iv never told her of the damage. Havnt been able to tweak it back in any more controlled scenario Iv tried. The Tilt Tatch allows me to live with it.

 

[Mark_G]

If you were there you could say that, but a single pic, slightly off axis with bucket doing what?, could steer you wrong. Loaders on the tractor they are designed for arent easy to tweak. My wife managed, taking off in 3rd downhill on the 7520 with forks parked straight down in the ground. Iv never told her of the damage. Havnt been able to tweak it back in any more controlled scenario Iv tried. The Tilt Tatch allows me to live with it.

The walkway is by my driveway, and the driveway slopes downward from left to right in the picture. The left side of the bucket (as shown in the picture) is on the ground, while the right side isn't as firmly on the ground. The Part of it is just the way it is sitting, as you imply. Once I get the tie rod in and get it back down, it's okay.

 

[LouNY]

Have you tried turning the steering wheel with the engine off?

 

[5030]

No point, it's hydrostatic steering.

 

[Mark_G]

Im going to guess, that if you arranged to pull the forward part of each front tire toward each other the wheels would come into alignment gradually by hydraulic leakage through the steering circuit. Im talking engine OFF and a moderate pull force of 2 or 3 hundred pounds with a come along.

SPYDERLK, thank you. As I had mentioned, I was trying to figure out how to pull or push the wheels in or out. I was thinking of using spreader bars or clamps, but I couldn't find any that would work effectively. Your mention of using a come-along got me thinking about how I would attach it, and I used a set of fence stretchers. I didn't need the come-along given the leverage they provided. You were right about moving it incrementally. Once I got the tie-rod in, I could twist that by hand a little at a time as well. Thanks again!

 

[Mark_G]

Have you tried turning the steering wheel with the engine off?

Yes, the outflow from one connects to the inflow of the other, I think. Even with the engine off, they both turn.